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HOUSE PLANTS 



AND 



How To Succeed With Them 



HOUSE PLANTS 



AND 



HOW TO SUCCEED WITH THEM 

A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK 

BY 

LIZZIE PAGE'HILLHOUSE 

— d'..-^ 
iiUL X ^ 

ILL USTRA TED -^ 

"Non ignara mali, miseris succurrere disco" — Virgil 



|lcb fork: 

A. T. DE LA MARE PTG. AND PUB. CO. Ltd. 

1897 



./ 



^.^ 



<: 



Copyright, 1897 
BY Lizzie Page Hillhouse 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

INTRODUCTION .............. v 

I BULB'S I 

II CACTI 21 

III FERNS 26 

IV FLOWERING PLANTS 35 

V FOLIAGE PLANTS 79 

VI LILIES 100 

VII PALMS 112 

Vlil SHRUBS 131 

IX VINES, CREEPERS AND BASKET PLANTS . 171 

X MISCELLANEOUS 184 

XI PROPAGATION OF PLANTS 197 

XII GENERAL REMARKS 203 

INDEX 211 



INTRODUCTION 



AVING a passionate love of 
Nature in all its phases, 
everything- that grows, no 
matter how humble, has an 
attraction for me With the first 
mild days that presage advancing 
spring, when the sap, which is the 
life-blood of the plant world, 
begins to wake from its winter 
lethargy ; when it first creeps, 
then, as the sun grows more caress- 
ing, bounds upward through trunk 
and branch, swelling each tiny 
dormant bud into bursting glad- 
some life : so my blood (the sap 
of human existence) dances with 
glad anticipation of the coming 
beauty that will enfold the earth. 
Yet it seems to me but a little while ere all these 
forms of wondrous and sublime loveliness, with 
which I delighted my very soul, begin to fade, and, 
alas! to die. Then my heart is sad and burdened 
with a wild desire to shield, protect, and save them 




vi INTRODUCTION 

from death, by bringing one and all into shelter 
from winter's storms and icy blasts. 

I wonder how many others have the same longing, 
and, with but little knowledge of the frail beauties' 
wants, extend to them their protecting care, beg 
them to share the gloom of winter, and brighten it 
with their sweet presence. 

Just here our woes begin. We tenderly install the 
flowers in most favorable situations ; then stand 
gazing with fond eyes, and proudly beating hearts at 
having rescued them from an untimely grave. We 
can scarce contain our joy at the prospect of their 
bright campanionship, imagining that we have 
cheated hoary winter out of half its dullness. For 
a few days all goes smilingly; then we feel a thrill 
of alarm. Our gentle friends have a depressed 
appearance; some indeed look quite crestfallen, and 
are undeniably hanging their pretty heads. 

We are panic stricken ; what shall we do to save 
them ? Are they going to leave us after all our 
thought and care? 

We inquire wildly of everyone we meet, ' ' What 
is the matter with them? What can^ or sJiall we do? " 

Then we read books, catalogues, pamphlets, all 
the printed lore we can find ; but it is all in vain. 
Nothing enlightens us, or meets our case, showing 
us how to prolong these precious lives. 

Many of us have been thus defrauded in our 
expectations, from having too little knowledge, and 
not knowing where to seek it. I have bought book 



INTRODUCTION vii 

after book in a vain search, only to find them all a 
delusion and a snare — so technical, or ambiguous, as 
to be far beyond my reach or comprehension. There- 
fore, for the benefit of fellow sufferers, I have 
determined to put down what little I have found out 
through bitter experience; knowing that at least it 
will be practical and true, as far as it goes. 

I will try to tell in plain English what house 
plants have been successful with me, when there 
were no congenial accommodations; and the poor 
things were forced to adapt themselves to a poisonous 
atmosphere of gas, dust, and dry furnace heat. Not- 
withstanding these drawbacks, I have succeeded in 
coaxing many of them to change their habitat, and 
submit, for a while, to circumstances (as many of us 
are forced to do), until warm days and glad sunshine 
returned, and they and I could revel in its beams. 

I have had many failures with other plants, which, 
in spite of all my care, would fade away ; and I could 
only gaze with saddened, moistened eyes while they 
sank slowly but surely to an early grave. 

Did you ever plant a tiny seed and watch anxiously 
for its fruition? 

Perchance after a long and steady downpour, 
when the sun bursts forth in all its regal power, you 
steal quickly out to see what has become of your 
buried hope — to find it, perhaps, just breaking 
through the sodden ground. How cautiously it 
peeps through the edges of its protecting shell ! 
With a sly look around, suddenly it throws aside all 



viii INTRODUCTION 

timidity; saucily it erects its head, boldly proclaim- 
ing- to all the world that it is born! What a marvel 
it is! And what a pleasure to watch its course, from 
the time when it escapes from the womb of mother 
earth, imtil it returns again, to add its mite to her 
enrichment for the support of future generations. 

How strange to think that these tiny seeds have 
been developing, multiplying, renewing themselves 
for untold decades — just as we human beings have 
done. Springing up as things of joy and beauty, to 
please our eyes, and brighten our lives; having per- 
formed their mission, they silently fade away to 
make room for their progeny — even as we step down 
and out into the unknown, while our places are filled 
by the countless thousands that are crowding on, 
ever on, behind us. Such is life — an everlasting 
renewal ! 

Yet, when we lose some pet flower, though many, 
perhaps more beautiful, are crowding in to take its 
place, they can never quite fill it. There always 
will be a void, a sense of something wanting: a 
subtle aroma of the past will ever linger round the 
present; and we can but sigh over the memory of 
joys that have been lost in departed beauties. 

It is very saddening, when some cherished shrub 
or vine slowly fades away before our eyes, while we 
are absolutely helpless to stay its flight. To those 
who have thus suffered, I write, hoping that I may 
give them hope ; and I shall endeavor to show how 
they might have saved those that are gone, and how 



INTRODUCTION ix 

they can preserve or prolong the life of others that 
may fall to their loving- ministrations. 

Sometimes the simplest things will save them. 

Water and large pots are answerable for the fate 
of many a season's beauties. Water is good, and a 
bath delicious for opening all their pores and cleans- 
ing them of their foes. But they do not wish to be 
forced to live in a bath-tub. 

I would impress it upon you to use good judgment 
in both of these particulars ; and you must learn to 
judge for yourself. It is impossible to give an exact 
rule that will meet every case: as conditions may 
entirely disagree, and what would be just right at 
one time might be all wrong at another. 

If the temperature of your house is at seventy 
degrees Fahrenheit, or over, the potted earth will 
soon become baked. This you must look out for. 

Some plants can do without water for a long time, 
and thrive; while others require a constant supply, 
and will die without it. 

You must know the needs of each individual, in 
order to succeed with plants. 



HOUSE PLANTS 



HOW TO SUCCEED WITH THEM 



A mar y His 

Crocus 

Gladiolus 



CHAPTER I 

BULBS 



HyaciiitJms 

Narcissus 

Nerincs 



Ornithogalum 

Oxalis 

Tulips 



AMARYLLIS 




HESE are half hardy or hardy, deciduous, 
bulbous plants of wondrous beauty. They 
will grow in popular favor for window 
decoration as they become better known. 
Their large flowers are unsurpassed for brilliant 
gorgeousness of coloring. 

Cover the bulb to the crown, in good-sized pots, 
filled with a compost of good soil, well rotted 
manure, and some sharp sand or fine gravel to keep 
the mass porous. Give very little water until the 
leaves show well ; then increase the quantity ; also 
give a little manure water during the flowering 
period. Let them have plenty of light, and air 
overhead when feasible. 



Amaryllis 



They need rest to thrive, as it is not possible to 
keep up the work of blooming- without it. 

Hippeastrums (from Jiippeus, a knight, and astroii, 
a star), belong to tliis order, AmcuTllideae. They 
are a large g-enus of beautiful hybrids, which have 
crossed and intercrossed, producing magnificent 
specimens, generally known as Amaryllis, and so 
catalogued by most florists. Under this heading we 
find also : 

Amaryllis Equestre, the Rarbadoes Lily, a very 
lovely variety. 

Amaryllis Johnsoni, a profuse bloomer, rather 
hardy, a robust grower, with red and white striped 
flowers. 




AMARYLLIS 



Amaryllis Belladonna, violet and white. 
Amaryllis Formosissima, crimson. 

Amaryllis Vittata, red and white striped. 
Also many others, too numerous to name here. 
Crinums, Nerines, Sprekelias, Sternbergias, Bruns- 



Crocus 3 

vigias, Yallotas, Zephyranthcs, all belong to this 
family or order. 

CROCUS 

A genus of hardy bulbous plants, with a world- 
wide reputation. Most persons have either seen 
them growing, or grown them themselves. Their 
cultivation is so remarkably easy, that it is perhaps 
superfluous to give any directions in regard to them; 
but there possibly may be some to whom a few 
suggestions, and a description of their habits, will 
be helpful. 

Many of us have hailed their appearance, with 
the Snowdrops, as the first glad harbingers of spring. 
All, howev^er, may not know that several of the 
species bloom in autumn, as readily as others do in 
spring. 

Crocuses, if planted in the ground outside in a 
well-drained location, will remain for years. They 
multiply indefinitely, until they become too thick, 
and must be taken up and separated. 

Though most of the family are perfectly hardy, I 
find that they appreciate a slight covering- in the 
winter. 

It is almost impossible to prevent separate varie- 
ties from becoming mixed, if they are very near one 
another. The corms constantly forming on healthy 
plants soon cover a large space. 

They will grow in the midst of grass; and, if you 
wish to dot your lawn with any one species and color, 
or a variety of colors — instead of having it starred 
with Dandelions, as many are — you have only to dig 
in autumn tiny holes, about three or four inches 
deep; drop in your Crocus corm ; cover up, and 



4 Crocus 

press down the soil. The following spring you will 
have a brilliant-looking lawn, if they have been 
closely planted ; if they have not, a few years will 
remedy any deficiency. Mowing the grass will 
seldom if ever hurt them. The only trouble is that 
they do not last long enough. By the time, how- 
ever, that they are about to disappear, something 




else is ready to take their place ; so prodigal is Nature 
with her wealth of beauty. 

Crocuses may be grown in pots, or boxes, as sug- 
gested for other bulbous plants. They should be 
left covered out-of-doors until these same pots or 
boxes are well filled with roots. Then bring them 
into a cool room, that is, one whose temperature is a 
little warmer than the outside air. Water carefull}^ 
and they will soon come into bloom. Be sure you 



Gladiolus 5 

do not take them into a hot, dry room, or you will 
be disappointed in all your expectations. 

Many varieties of Crocus will grow in water, like 
Hyacinths. Florists have for them variously shaped 
receptacles filled with holes, through which the plants 
protrude, making the forms of hedgehogs, bee-hives, 
and other things. The plants present a very pretty 
and cheerful appearance when in full bloom. 

The Crocus family is too large a genus to be de- 
scribed individually, there being some seventy species 
spread over various parts of the globe. But a selec- 
tion of varieties may be made readily from any re- 
sponsible florist's catalogue of bulbs for autumn 
planting. 

They come in numerous shades of blue, white, 
purple, yellow, and violet. A closely planted box or 
pot of harmonizing colors is a pleasant sight. 

GLADIOLUS 

Corn Flag. A genus of many species, though the 
originals have been hybridized almost out of exist- 
ence. The improvement, however, is decidedly 
marked, and we owe our thanks to the hybridizers 
for a host of new and beautiful varieties. 

Gladiolus may be grown successfully in the house, 
in pots, for fall and spring blooming. 

When growing outside in the groimd during sum- 
mer, they need a rich soil, a sunny location, and 
plenty of water in hot weather. Each plant will have 
to be staked before blooming, or it may be bruised 
and broken by high winds and storms. 

Do not mix any fresh manure in your potting soil; 
it will rot the corms if it comes in direct contact with 
them. 



Gladioltas 



The large-flowering Gladioli do well in pots for fall 
blooming, if planted for succession from April until 
the last of June. The term "for succession," applied 
to Gladioli, refers to planting about once every fort- 
night, in order that the flowers may appear alter- 




nately, new ones coming as the old ones fade. In 
planting Hyacinths for succession, the intervals are 
five or six weeks, as will be seen farther on. A 
single large Gladiolus corm is sufficient for a seven - 
inch pot, which should be filled with very rich soil, 
and placed where the plant will receive plenty of air. 



Hya.cinthL\_is 7 

Gladioli Colvillei are also excellent in pots, and can 
be grown so as to bloom in April or May. If you 
have a cold frame you will find no difficulty, as they 
are easily raised in one; if not, you must exercise 
your ingenuity and devise other means of growing 
them, such as I have elsewhere described, particu- 
larly in regard to Hyacinths. 

The last mentioned variety of Gladiolus has small 
corms; as many as five of them may by planted in a 
six-inch pot; their roots do not take up much room. 
Prepare them in the fall, and cover up out-of-doors, 
as suggested for other bulbs. 

If in a frame, when roots are formed and they be- 
gin growing, you can take in a pot or two as you need 
them. They should have at least fifty-five degrees 
of heat. Water gradually; and give air overhead. 

If you have started with good strong corms, each 
one will give you two or more scapes. AVhen these 
make their appearance a little more heat will be re- 
quired, with your lightest, sunniest situation. And 
give plenty of water at the roots. 

Should you not be the happy owner of a cold 
frame, you will have to bring your pots inside before 
severe weather; under these circumstances you must 
keep them covered up in the dark, in some cool place, 
until you are ready for them to bloom. 

Gladiolus Recurvus is a most exquisitel}^ scented 
variety, with yellow flowers, thickly studded with 
blue ; it has a lovely violet-like odor. 

HYACINTHUS 

By good management in planting for a succession, 
the bloom of Hyacinths may be enjoyed during 
most of the winter, and until near the end of May. 



8 Hyacinthias 

They may be grown singly, or two or more together 
in pots of sufficient size; you can have them also in 
boxes for your window. 

If you plant in boxes or pots, as you may prefer, 
place them in a cold dark room or cellar; or sink them 
into the ground outside, and cover them with leaves, 
or something else to prevent freezing. They may be 
left until you are ready for them to flower. You can 
bring the bulbs into strong heat as they are needed, 
and soon force them into bloom. 

The large-flowered Hyacinths should be potted 
singly, in five or six-inch pots, according to the size 
of the bulb. Fill your pots lightly with good loam 
and manure in equal parts, and have sharp sand well 
mixed through it. Press the bulb firmly into the 
mixture and cover up. 

If you wish a succession, begin to plant during the 
latter part of August and continue to the last of 
November, with five or six weeks between the 
plantings. 

Before bringing the bulbs into heat they must be 
well rooted, with the crowns beginning to expand. 
This they are supposed to do when covered up in the 
dark ; all the bulbous plants require to rest in seclu- 
sion and darkness. 

When they are brought inside they must still be 
kept in the dark, but as warm as possible until they 
" break ground," as an old farmer would say. Then 
they may have a sunny window, and plenty of water 
at all times. When the lovely flowers come, they 
will want something to strengthen them and increase 
their size; you should give manure water. 

If you use boxes they need not be over six inches 
deep. Have the soil very rich, perfectly drained ; and 



HyaciiT^thiuis 



let no fresh manure come in contact with your bulbs, 
as it will burn and cause them to rot. You must 
watch them; and, should they become infested with 
Green Fly or Aphis, syringe or dip them in luke- 
warm water. 







HYACINTHS 



Hyacinths may also be grown in glasses, and for 
this purpose the single varieties are best. There are 
glasses made especially to prevent the bulb from 
sinking too deeply into the water. 

Fill the glasses with rain water, and let this con- 
tain a little charcoal to keep it sweet. Wind some 
sphagnum moss about the bulb, and place it in the 



10 HCyacintlT^os 

glass so that the bottom of the bulb will just touch 
the water. Then put away in some cool dark place 
until it puts forth roots, when you can bring it to the 
light. 

As the heat of a room causes the water in the glass 
to evaporate, add more ; and your bulbs will need no 
further attention. 

In the open ground Hyacinths require but little care 
and make a very brilliant showing. If given a rich 
light soil, in a bright sunny location; and if well cov- 
ered in the late fall with leaves, straw, or old manure, 
to keep them warm and comfortable during our 
severe winter; you will find them pushing- their heads 
through this protecting mantle so early in the spring 
that sometimes they will get nipped by a belated 
frost for their forwardness. 

After they have finished blooming the bulbs should 
be taken up with a g-arden fork, dried in the shade, 
and put away, to be planted again early in the fall. 
They may give you another crop of flowers; but the 
bloom will not be so fine or perfect as that of the first 
season. They always run out and deteriorate after 
the first year. 

Pick out hard, heavy bulbs in selecting; they, as a 
rule, produce the finest heads of bloom. 

The early Roman Hyacinths, with their beautiful 
pure white bloom, are very effective for the house in 
either pots or boxes. They may be grown in flats 
three inches deep ; but, unlike the other or hardy 
species, they must not be exposed to severe cold or 
frost, as they are tender and it would kill them. 

If in a box they should be planted quite closely 
together. If you do not wish so many, you can place 
three or four in a five-inch pot: cover lightly with 



Narcissuis 



11 



soil; water, and cover them up in some dark place 
where they will not get chilled. Wait until the pot 
or box is filled with roots. Then bring them into 
the light, and syringe often to encourage the tops to 
grow. 

NARCISSUS 
This is a genus of generall}^ hardy, bulbous plants, 
which have delighted many generations with their 




NARCISSUS 



beauty and fragrance. They are sometimes termed 
Daffodils, and also include Jonquils in their family. 

The hardy varieties are particularly fine for out-of- 
doors. They do well if planted in a moderately 
rich soil, about six inches deep; and should not be 
disturbed for three or four years. After this they 



12 Narcissus 



will need thinning- out. Give them some protection 
in winter, a covering of leaves, salt hay, or old 
decayed manure. 

If planted at the depth just mentioned, they may 
be left undisturbed ; and other flowers may be planted 
over them. They resent being taken up each year, 
and in this respect differ from Hyacinths. If par- 
tially shaded from the full strength of the sun, their 
bloom will last longer. 

Narcissus readily becomes naturalized in the grass, 
like Crocus. But, while you can use the mower as 
soon as Crocuses have finished blooming, cutting off 
their leaves without injury to the bulbs, the Nar- 
cissus leaves, on the other hand, should not be cut 
while green, but be allowed to die naturally, and then 
be cut off. 

Polyanthus Narcissus is not hardy, and cannot stand 
our winters. These plants are chiefly used for early 
forcing in the house, and may be grown precisely 
like Tulips, in boxes or pots. But do not leave them 
out until it freezes; and whenever you bring them 
in keep them very cool, as they will not flower in a 
warm place. 

Exceptions to the above rule, however, are: 

Paper White Narcissus 

Double Roman Narcissus 

They can be forwarded in heat after the flower 
scapes appear. 

Chinese Lily is a variety of Polyanthus Narcissus, 
though called by several other names. It makes 
rapid growth in a bowl of water, with pebbles about 
the bulbs to hold them in an upright position. The 
bloom is white with a yellow center, and very fragrant. 
Give plenty of light, with air overhead; keep them 



Nerines 13 



tolerably cool ; and change the water occasionally. 
A piece of charcoal serves to keep it sweet. 

There are so many kinds of Narcissus, named and 
unnamed, offered by our florists, in pure white, pure 
yellow, and white and yellow, that those would be 
hard to satisfy who could not discover some variety 
that would please them, particularly as nearly all are 
beautiful. 

Trumpet Major is an exceedingly good sort for out- 
door planting. If not disturbed it will soon cover a 
large space. 

NERINES 

Called after the water nymph of that name, are 
nearly hardy, bulbous plants. They are very lovely 
when in bloom. 

Loam and leaf soil, with an addition of sharp sand, 
or charcoal, and perfect drainage, suit them best. 
They should also have a warm, light position, and be 
rested regularly every year. If they are wanted for 
windows in winter, their rest should be given in 
summer. 

Do not repot often, as they dislike it. About once 
a year, when they commence to flower, shake out as 
much of the old soil as you can, and fill up with fresh 
new earth. When the leaves die, store the plants in 
a cool place ; and keep them quite dry until they 
show again signs of growth. 

Nerine Japonica. Pink Spider Lily, is very pretty, 
and blooms from August to November. 

Nerine Sarniensis. Guernsey Lily, is also a hand- 
some variety. 

Nerine Fothergilli Major is superb. 



14 Ornitl-iogalom 

Some recommend that all Nerines be allowed to 
make their full growth of foliage during winter and 
spring, that they may bloom freely in late summer 
and autumn. 

ORNITHOGALUM 

This is a bulbous plant with a very large connec- 
tion, there being about seventy species. Some are 




ORNITHOGALUM 

hardy, or half hardy, while others are greenhouse 
plants. They come from Europe, Africa, the Orient, 
and several parts of xAmerica. Many of the hardy 
kinds are very pretty, and make good border plants, 
being of the easiest cultivation. The more tender 



Oxaiis 15 



varieties, some of them almost half hardy, are desir- 
able pot plants for a cool location. 

Hardy Ornithogalums take care of themselves to a 
certain extent when once planted; those grown in 
pots need to be treated in the same manner as Lilies, 
they also belonging to the order Liliacese. 

Ornithogalum Arabicum is a lovely species, very 
showy, bearing large- fragrant white flowers, with a 
black centre on a scape from one to two feet long. 
The bloom lasts a considerable time. This kind, 
while not perfectly hardy, is still very good for pot 
culture. 

Ornithogalum Nutans has flowers white on the upper 
side and green on the back. 

Ornithogalum Thyrsoides, with yellow flowers, from 
the Cape of Good Hope, is a handsome greenhouse 
species, of which there are two or t,hree varieties. 
One of the latter is piire white; the others have shades 
of yellow. 

Ornithogalum Umbellatum, Star of Bethlehem, is 
satiny- white striped with green. It is a handsome 
variety, indeed one of the best. 

Ornithogalum Vittatum is another greenhouse species, 
with yellow flowers. 

They are all propagated by offsets; and the hardy 
ones, outside in the ground, multiply rapidly. Those 
grown inside need well drained pots, and no water 
when resting. 

OXALIS 

A genus of over two hundred species, some hardy, 
or nearly hardy, others greenhouse varieties. They 
are of the easiest culture; and a number of them 
make very effective pot plants. They appear well in 



16 



Oxalis 



hanging baskets, or vases; mix in well with Ferns in 
corners ; and some of them are pretty in borders. 

They all multiply very rapidly, and may be propa- 
gated by division of the roots. They do best in a 
sandy soil, with a warm and dry position. The 
varieties grown in pots should be rested, like Callas, 
by laying the pots on their sides outdoors, that the 
bulbs may keep dry until ready to commence a new^ 
growth. 

Oxalis Acetosella, a perennial, is the common Wood 
Sorrel. It has white flowers prettily veined with 
purple. 




Oxalis Bowiei, from the Cape of Good Hope, is a 
beautiful species with rosy-red bloom, and light green 
leaves. 

Oxalis Tetraphylla, from Mexico, is a handsome 
hardy perennial, which will do well almost anywhere. 
It is generally catalogued under the name of Oxalis 
Deppei. This plant has good-sized scaly bulbs, is 
four-leaved, and bears purplish-violet flowers consid- 
erably larger than those of the general type. 

Oxalis Lobata has a yellow bloom, which it throws 
out in October and November; it is a hardy species. 



Tulips 17 

Oxalis Rosea, rose colored, or Floribunda its 
synonym, is a good variety. 

Oxalis Purpurea is purple, with bulbous roots; it 
grows only about three inches high. 

Oxalis Luteola has yellow flowers, and is expected 
to bloom from January until September. It also 
reaches a height of only some three inches, and has 
bulbous roots. 

Oxalis Enneaphylla is a hardy perennial, about four 
inches high, bearing white or rose-colored flowers, 
streaked with purple. 

As a rule Oxalis bulbs are quite small, and several 
should be planted in a pot to make a good display ; 
they can be thinned out if they become too thick. 
Any of the greenhouse species maybe grown outside, 
and laid away to rest in winter if not wanted. I 
simply set the receptacle in which they are growing 
where the bulbs will not freeze ; and they start up 
again in spring. 

TULIPS 

Like Hyacinths, they are very hardy, and may be 
planted outside in beds, or borders. But I have 
found that they also are grateful for a little protection 
during the coldest months. The covering, however, 
should be raked off early: for, if they have been kept 
very warm, they may appear too soon, and be caught 
by some belated frost. 

Plant Tulips in September or October. Put them 
three or four inches deep, with a little sand around 
each bulb, unless the soil is naturally sandy. A good 
way is to make a trench, about four inches deep, the 
length of your bed. vSprinkle an inch or two of sand 
through it; press in your bulbs, about five or six 




SIWGLE EARLY TULIPS 



Tialips 19 

inches apart; cover with soil and firm it with the feet. 
Then, when the weather begins to grow very cold, 
throw litter over the whole bed. 

Tulip bulbs may be left undisturbed for two or 
three seasons without further care ; by that time they 
probably will have so multiplied as to need being dug 
up, divided, and reset. 

If you require for other purposes the ground they 
occupy. Tulips may be taken up each year, after 
blooming, when the leaves begin to turn yellow. 
They should be then dried off, and laid away where 
mice will not get at them. In the fall you can reset 
tliem again. 

You will no doubt find two or three of the bulbs 
clinging together. Separate them, rub off the out- 
side reddish skin, and plant singly as before. 

Keep Tulip bulbs in the shade when drying, and 
s'ore them where the air will circulate freely among 
them. 

It is best, when possible, to plant in October: this 
gives them time to make roots, and take hold of the 
ground before it freezes. 

There are so many Tulips — their name is legion — 
that the selection of colors and varieties must be 
left to your individual taste and personal knowledge, 
aided, perhaps, by advice from your florist. 

For pots and boxes inside. Tulips are a great suc- 
cess, making a brilliant showing and dispersing the 
gloom of the darkest day. 

To begin with, you will need a good compost of 
about two parts loam to one of well rotted manure, 
with enough sand to make the mixture friable, so 
that water may pass through it readily. 

You may plant from three to five bulbs, according-; 



20 Tulips 



to size, in a fiv^e-inch pot. If you use boxes, have 
them about six inches deep; fill them with soil to 
within an inch of the top, having holes and crock in 
the bottom for drainage; and plant your bulbs about 
three inches apart. 

Before the ground freezes out-of-doors, sink the 
pot or box, and cover with earth, mulching with 
leaves, or something else, to prevent the bulbs from 
freezing. Leave them alone until you are ready for 
their company, then bring them in ; keep them dark 
and warm until they are well above ground. At this 
time they will want a sunny location, plenty of water 
— but not too much — and air from above. You can 
bring them to the light in installments, and so pro- 
long the supply. 

In planting Tulips do not forget to take off the 
outer red skin; it is sometimes so hard that it is liable 
to keep the tender shoot from forcing its way through 
the soil. 

These bulbs — and any others intended for spring 
blooming outside, such as Hyacinth, Crocus, Narcis- 
sus — should be put into the ground in September, if 
possible. One may wait through October, and even 
until the first part of November; but the earlier 
planting produces the best results, as it gives the 
bulbs more time to make good strong roots. These 
will enable them to withstand the rigors of winter 
better than if planted late, when they would have but 
small roots and a feeble hold on the soil. Moreover, 
all these bulbs, if kept too long out of the ground, 
gradually lose their vitality until they become utterly 
worthless. Yet they all do better, and make finer, 
stronger bloom, if taken up, rested, and reset each 
year. 



CHAPTER 



CACTI 

HE Cactus family. If one is fond of 
Cacti, a good many may be kept in a 
window, as they do not take up much 
space, being of slow growth, and not 
very hard to manage during the winter months. In 
summer you have simply to sink them outside in 
your sunniest location, and they will look out for 
themselves. 

Any ordinary garden loam mixed with half its 
quantity of sand, pounded brick, or old plaster, will 
suit them, provided the drainage is perfect. To 
insure this, fill your pots at least one-third, or one- 
half full of broken crock. I always save the broken 
pots for this purpose. 

February or March is the best time for repotting, 
shaking off most of the old soil, and cutting out any 
decayed roots. Cacti, however, do not need chang- 
ing often ; a good top dressing, and occasional doses 
of manure water, will keep them thrifty for several 
seasons. In winter give scarcely any water; at this 
time they do best when entirely dry, unless your 
room is intensely hot. In summer, on the other 
hand, they may be showered every day and will 
enjoy it, as they require plenty of water while 
blooming. 



22 



Cacti 



A good thing- about these plants is their freedom 
from insect pests. 

There are many fine varieties of Cacti, which are 
very attractive and well worth growing ; others again 
that are so peculiar in habit and appearance as to 



R6S 


1^ 






^m 


m 




^^^3 


l^^m 


^m 






m 


1 






I 


1 







excite our wonder. The bloom of some of the species 
is marvellously beautiful. 

After enjoying them as they come into flower 
during summer, if you are limited as to room in 
your house, you can store these plants in any dry 
place where they will not freeze; they will keep 
perfectly from season to season, and be ready to 



Cacti 23 

form an interesting" gToup outside for you each 
succeeding spring. 

Cactus is the generic name given to all the mem- 
bers of this large family, which appear also under 
various nomenclatures. Yon will, for example, find 
many desirable species among the following: 

Cere us Ep ipJiyllu ;;; 

EcJiinocaetus Mainuiillaria 

And others of the numerous tribe. 

Echinocactus, or Hedgehog Cactus, is to me an 
especially interesting group. 

Epiphyllum Truncatum, synonymous with Cactus 
Truncatus, but more familiarly known as Crab Claw 
Cactus, comes from Brazil. It belongs to a genus 
of most beautiful, brilliantly colored winter-flower- 
ing plants. They make lovely specimens when 
grafted on Cereus, or Pereskia stock, in treelike 
form . 

The following varieties of Epiphyllum Truncatum 
are all admirable: 

Ehiphyllum Truncatum Ruckerianum, which has red- 
dish purple flowers with a violet centre. 

Epiphyllum Truncatum Coccineum, a rich deep scar- 
let, is very fine. 

Epiphyllum Truncatum Magnificum, has large white 
bloom, with rose-colored tips. 

Epiphyllum Truncatum Violaceum Superbum, is pure 
white with deep purple edge. 

And there are others equally attractive. 

Epiphyllums, like all Cacti, succeed best in sandy 
soil. In Texas I have seen Cacti flourishing in 
the most barren places, growing in almost pure sand, 



24 



Cacti 



clinging to all but bare rocks; and yet, from various 
experiments, I know that they enjoy a little rich 
food. 

Some leaf mould, or a small quantity of very zvell 
rotted old crumbly manure, they will appreciate; 
and, if you can secure some old mortar rubbish, mix 
it through your compost. 

Have perfect drainage, and rather small pots in 
proportion to your plants. 




EPIPHYLLUM 



In summer sink tliem outside, where they will get 
the sun; and water tliem freely. 

By autumn tlicy should have formed good-sized 
shapely heads, and be ready to bloom when carried 
into the house. 



Cacti 



25 



They will flower in a temperature of about sixty 
degrees. But when they have finished, Cacti need 
a much cooler position, and just enough water to 
keep them from drying up or shriveling. 

If you cannot procure grafted standards, place the 
pots on a bracket or table, where the plants can 
hang down, as they are of a pendent habit. 




MAMMILLAKIA 



CHAPTER 111 

KERNS 



Adiantums NepJirolepis Platy ceriums 



ADIANTUMS 

THESE are the most beautiful, 
but, unfortunately, the most deli- 
cate and tender of all the Fern 
family. While they ravish the 
eye with their loveliness, until 
all beholders long to possess 
them, yet, when admirers accom- 
plish the wish, it generally 
means that the Ferns' doom is 
sealed: for very fev/ ever suc- 
ceed with Adiantums outside of 
a greenhouse. 
Despite the difficulties attending their sojourn in 
a dwelling, I am proud to say that I have weaned 
them from the seclusion of a hot-house, and taught 
them sociability, and how to thrive. This, however, 
was done only at the expense of several fine speci- 
mens. 

Adiantums (from adiantos, dry) are the Maiden- 
hair family. They belong to the order Filices, an 
extensive genus of tropical and temperate Ferns. 




AdiantTarxis 27 

Few, if any of them, are hardy. Their chief 
requirements are a compost of good loam and sand, 
perfect drainage, sufficiency of pot room, not too 
much sun, shade from the afternoon rays, and not 
one drop of water on the leaves, as it scorches and 
dries them up just as though fire had passed ovei 
them. Ferns, however, demand an ample supply 
of water at their roots, at all times, except when 
resting during November, December and January. 
Then the quantity may be lessened, unless your 
house is very hot. Never let cold air blow directly 
upon them ; but on mild days you can give air by 
opening the upper sash of some window in an 
adjoining room . I keep my Adiantums on a table 
in the front hall, about five feet from a bay-window; 
and they get sufficient air from the opening of the 
vestibule door. 

It is the wetting of the leaves that invariably kills 
them, combined with soggy or sour earth, and violent 
changes of temperature. 

The above treatment is for a dwelling-house. If 
carefully carried out, the Ferns should thrive as mine 
have done. 

After resting awhile, they will, about February, 
commence active operations once more. 

If your plants are very large, and you wish to keep 
them within bounds, and not be forced into using 
larger pots — for they must have room — you can 
divide them by cutting, or slicing right through the 
ball of roots, with a sharp knife, and thus separating 
into smaller plants and pots. But I should not advise 
this unless you have seen it done ; and, perhaps, it 
would be safer to get some professional to do it for 
you. 



28 Adiantui-ns 



These same professionals will tell you that it is not 
possible to grow Adiantums outside at all. But, as I 
have done so, I know them to be laboring under a 
delusion. 

About the first of June, if the weather is settled, I 
place my Ferns in a sheltered corner, where two 
buildings meet, forming a sort of recess; here only 
the morning sun reaches them. They are set on a 
wire stand to keep animals from them; and, with 
saucers under the pots, are kept thoroughly wet. 
The spot is so sheltered that the wind does not get at 
them; and they grow nicely all summer, becoming 
vigorous and ready for the change to the house at 
the first sign of winter. 

When I say that Ferns need room, I do not mean 
that they must have immense pots; for they grow 
well in very small ones compared with the size of the 
plants. But they must not be pot-bound, or consume 
all the soil before they have fresh nourishment given 
them. 

Always keep a strict watch for insects, as Adian- 
tums are liable to attacks, particularly from the Mealy 
Bug, the Brown Scale and White Scale. The best 
way to get rid of these parasites is to pick them off 
with the fingers and kill them. Thrips and Aphides 
also attack Ferns, but can be destroyed by tobacco 
smoke, if you have any way of fumigating. This 
must be done very carefully, as smoke will destroy 
the plants if too strong. My Ferns have never been 
badly infested by insects; so that in respect to ridding 
them of the pests I have had little or no personal ex- 
perience. With other plants, however, while my 
fortune has varied, I have generally succeeded in 
averting the evil. 



30 Adiantuims 



Adiantum Capillus Veneris, the common Maidenhair, 
is widely known and generally nsed for purposes of 
decoration. 

Adiantum Tenerum Farleyense (Farley's), from Bar- 
badoes. A tender stove variety, with which I have 
recently experimented with gratifying results. To 
my mind it is the most beautiful of this very large 
family. Despite its beauty, the species will always 
be scarce and rare, on account of its tenderness, 
which is a great pity as it is simply superb. 

There are many hardy Ferns, which may be grown 
almost anywhere. Some of them are very pretty, 
and worthy of place in any collection. Of these I 
shall have to treat, separately, as we all want Ferns 
of some kind, and if we cannot have the stove or 
greenhouse varieties, must content ourselves with 
those that are less exotic. 

Most Ferns do much better in a moderate tem- 
perature. And now that the general public begins 
to learn that it is not necessary to keep them in the 
excessive heat of a greenhouse, but that they may 
be grown in a much cooler atmosphere, their popu- 
larity, and the demand for them is rapidly increas- 
ing. 

Hardy Ferns will thrive outside, being mostly 
deciduous; but they like a shady, sheltered position, 
good deep soil, and plenty of water. They are 
helped by a little protection in winter. 

Many of them may be potted and brought into 
the house. If kept in a moderately warm room, 
where they do not get too much sun, well watered, 
and if the soil is not allowed to become sodden, they 
will grow all winter. But beware of the bugs ; and 



Nephrolepis 



31 



be sure that your drainage is perfect for all kinds of 
Ferns. Remember that they like a rich soil. Good 
leaf mould from the woods, mixed with some sand, 



.,tf(iir 




NEPHKOLEPIS EXALTATA VAR. BOSTONIENSIS 

suits them very well; or 5^ou can mix with youi 
earth some peat, if you have it. 

NEPHROLEPIS 

Nephrolepis Exaltata, the Sword Fern, a native of 
the Southern States, is generally known and appre- 
ciated as an excellent house plant. 



32 Nephrdlepis 

When one commences to write of Ferns it is hard 
to tell where to stop, the subject is such an intermin- 
able one, and the genus almost endless. However, 
I think I have spoken of all that will be useful for 
the house, unless you wish to have a Wardian Case, 
or to grow Tree Ferns. 

The first is easily managed; any good florist will 
fill it for you with suitable varieties: and I hardly 
think you will aspire to the latter, as they might 
prove too tall for you, until you are provided with 
a hot-house. 




^^ 











PLATYCEKIUMS 



F^latyceriu-ms— F*teris 33 

PLATYCERIUMS 

A small genus of epiphytal Ferns, which form a 
very attractive and distinct variety. They take their 
name from platys^ broad, and kcras, a horn ; because 
their fronds are divided, or shaped like a stag's horns: 
hence they are commonly known as Stag Horn 
Ferns. 

Gardeners have various methods of growing them, 
some using baskets or shallow pans, while others 
fasten them to blocks of wood with a little peat and 
sphagnum around their roots. They can be potted 
in a mixture of rough peat — that is, peat which is 
left lumpy — and sphagnum, or dried moss; set in a 
larger pot; and the whole suspended by a wire 
fastened securely around the rim of the outer pot. 
Hang in a warm room, and keep wet. The roots 
will run all over the inner pot, as they feed on air. 
If taken good care of, they should make fine plants, 
and will prove very interesting and curious. 

PTERIS 

Pteris is a larger and rather cosmopolitan genus, 
m"^ny of the species being beautiful, and possessing 
a number of good qualities. But I have never tried 
to grow them, so cannot say much on the subject ; 
though no doubt they would prosper under the same 
conditions as their friends and relatives. 

Pteris Aquilina, one of this family, is the common 
Bracken, or Brake Fern. 

There are many other kinds of Ferns; but, as 
this is not a book on botany, it is not necessary to 
enumerate them all. 



CHAPTER IV 



KIvOWKRIKO PLANTS 



Ageratiini 

BoiLvardias 

CJirysan t lie in ii in 

Daisies 

Datura 

Fuchsia 

Geraimuns 



Heliotrope 

Iberis 

Inipatiens 

Lantana 

Ma her Ilia 

Mignonette 

Nieotiana 



Pansies 

Petunia 

PJiormiuni 

Plumbago 

Reimvardtia 

Salvia 

Violets 



AGERATUM 

IF you have only a few window plants, 
and wish for a bit of color, 
Agaratimi should answer well, 
if it is not too humble for your 
requirements. While low down 
socially on the floral ladder, its 
modest hue is very grateful to 
the eye. 

To succeed with Agerat^^ms, 
humble as they are, you must 
take certain precautions. 

In the first place, for winter 
bloom, it is best to have young plants, not old ones 
that have been hard at work all summer. And yet, 
the poor things will struggle to please, if you cut 




AGERATUM 



3G ' BoLivardias 



them sharply back during the last part of August, 
and force a new growth. But it is much easier to 
have winter bloom with young, new, vigorous plants, 
that will not need urging to do their best. 

Cuttings root quickly under our hot August sun. 
If potted in small pots, shifted to larger ones as soon 
as these are filled with roots, and so kept growing 
steadily, the new plants should be well grown ar.d 
nicely shaped by the time 3^ou wish to take them in — 
that is, if you have done your duty by them. This 
is accomplished by pinching, or "nipping in the 
bud " any premature attempts of theirs to appear on 
the stage of life, before they have a call, or receive 
their cue. 

When you take them in, do not give enough water 
to rot them : they are soft-wooded plants and cannot 
take care of it, unless growing rapidly in heat. Let 
them have a vv^arm sunny window. And be sure to 
invert your plants, and dip them each day in a bucket 
of water to drown the Red Spider. 

If there is a little common soap in the water it will do 
no harm. Have the chill off, so that it is comfortable 
to your hand. Let the water dry on the plants. 

The more you cut off the flowers, the more bloom 
you may expect. 

BOUVARDIAS 

Named after Dr. Charles Bouvard. They are 
handsome evergreen shrubs, which all would enjoy 
and be glad to cultivate, if they knew how to manage 
them. A well grown plant should be nearly covered 
with large clusters of delicate, waxy-looking flowers. 
They come in various shades of pink, pure white, 
and brilliant scarlet. 

For the house Bouvardias should be potted in good 



Botavardia.® 



37 



loam, leaf mould and sand, in equal quantities. But 
in summer they may be planted outside ; and when 
given plenty of water, they will make rapid growth. 
Presently they must be prepared for their winter 




BOUVARDIAS 



work. As soon as they send up enough shoots to 
make respectable-looking plants, about ten or twelve 
inches high, cut off the tops to make them branch. 
In this way you can trim them into neat shapes, well 
rounded, with a much larger blooming surface than 
otherwise they would have. If you neglect to pinch 



38 Bouvardias 



them, you will have ill shapen, almost flowerless plants. 

Lift Bouvardias in September. Pot them in rich 
soil, well drained; water thoroughly, and place them 
in the shade until they recover. 

As soon as they hold up their heads, and appear 
reconciled to the change by beginning to grow again, 
take them into the house; give plenty of fresh air 
from above, and a judicious supply of water — not too 
much, nor yet too little — with liquid manure once a 
week as soon as they begin to flower. This they 
should do before Christmas; and, if not in too hot a 
position, they should bloom for a long time. The Red 
Spider, Aphis and Mealy Bug have a great affection 
for them, and must be fought vigorously. 

When a bloom begins to fade, cut it off, as you 
would a Rose or Geranium bloom that was dead. 
Never allow a withered flower to remain on your 
plants. By this cutting back, as gardeners say, you 
will induce new shoots and fresh buds, which will 
soon expand. 

Bouvardias, however, must sometimes rest, like 
everything else : therefore it is well to have new 
plants coming on. They are very easy to propagate, 
rooting quickly from cuttings during the. summer. 

In potting, be sure to have good drainage ; and 
shade from too strong sunlight. 

But few of these plants are fragrant ; yet it would 
be hard to find a handsomer sight than a well grown 
Bouvardia entirely covered with lovely flowers. 

The following are fine varieties: 

Bouvardia Humboldtii Corymbiflora 

Bouvardia Jasminiflora 

They have white, fragrant flowers, and bloom 
during the winter. 



ChLrysanthLemiam 



39 




^'"j 




CHRYSANTHEMUM 

From cJirysos^ gold, and anthe- 
''■-\U'i'^ i^ion, a flower. An exceed- 
I'OlrS in gly large and very promi- 
nent genus of herbaceous 
plants, with which of late 
years we have become 
familiar. They win the 
attention and admiration 
of all by their pleasing 
variety of shape, form and 
coloring; and so far surpass the 
flower of our grandmothers' days 
as to be scarcely recognizable as 
of the same stock, reminding 
one strongly of the diversity, 
peculiarities, and dissimilarity 
we often find among members 
of the same human family. 

There are so many varieties 
that it is difficult to decide which 
to favor and mention first ; as to 
praise, they all deserve some 
meed of it, for one merit if not 
for another. 

We may, however, select the 
following : 

Incurved=FIowered Chrysanthe- 
mums 

Recurved Chrysanthemums 

Large Anemone=flowered Chrys= 
anthemums 

Small A nemone=f lowered Pom= 
pone Chrysanthemums 



40 Clnrysaiilli.emtj.m. 

Pompones Reflexed 
Japanese Varieties 
EarIy=flowering Chrysanthemums 
Late=flowering Chrysanthemums 

Even the Pyrethrums, and Marguerites or Paris 
Daisies (Chrysanthemum Frutescens), belong- to this 
innumerable genus. 

To grow these fall beauties successfully is not so 
difficult as most people imagine. 

There are many of them so perfectly hardy that 
they can be planted outside in the ground; and with 
ordinary care they will live for years, growing 
stronger all the while. 

For these kinds I select a sunny location, and plant 
in very rich soil; thin them out if they put forth 
too many shoots; and disbud if I wish to have large 
blooms — that is, rub off the greater part of the buds, 
as this throws the strength and vitality into those 
that are left, making the blooms much larger than 
otherwise they would be. Do not allow any buds to 
form before August. Keep the ground about plants 
mulched with old manure; this prevents it from 
drying out in hot weather. Turn on the hose every 
afternoon when the sun has left them, and drench 
thoroughly. If the Black Flea attack them, sprinkle 
the leaves with tobacco dust, while they are damp. 

The Early-Flowering Chrysanthemums are the 
best to grow in the manner above described. Should 
there be. a threatening of frost, cover them with 
sheets, or anything, at night. 

They stand quite cold weather. After they have 
finished blooming, and are nipped by a frost, cut 
them down to the ground; and cover heavily with 
leaves and manure. In the early spring, you will 



Clnrysan.themum 41 

find them pushing their way up to the light through 
the kindly covering that lias kept them warm all 
winter. 

For the house they require a different treatment. 
You may, however, by judicious management, have 
their lovely bloom to brighten your home until quite 
late in the season. 

Keep in well drained pots those plants which you 
wish to bloom in the house. Start them as early as 
possible in the spring, using a good loam, not light, 
mixed with an equal proportion of rotted manure. 
Cow manure is the best, if you can get it. 

Chrysanthemums require quantities of water; yet 
the soil must not be allowed to become sour. 

If you have a hose and plenty of water, I should 
advise the following treatment: Sink the pots to the 
rim, in 'some place outdoors where they will not get 
the full glare of the afternoon sun, but sufficient 
light and air. Every day, without fail, soak the 
ground all about them. I place mine in rows, about 
three feet apart each way; keep the weeds out; and 
flood the whole bed. I also shift or turn the pots 
frequently, to prevent the roots from growing 
through, and in order to keep the plants straight. 
They always have a tendency to lean toward the 
sun, and if not moved will draw all to one side. 

When about a foot tall, begin to pinch off the 
terminal buds, that they may throw out side shoots, 
or laterals, thus making bushy and stocky plants. 
Let as many shoots grow as will please your fancy, 
and make a well shaped plant: there is no given 
rule, it being merely a matter of taste, some prefer- 
ring more, others less. 

Mulch the top of your pots with old manure, to 




J^ 






Ctirysanthemum 43 

keep the ground from drying out; by this means, 
also, every time you throw water on the top, nour- 
ishment will be carried down to the roots. Practi- 
cally it is the same as giving liquid manure, and 
tends to develop a strong root growth, which Chry- 
santhemums need. They must have plenty of room 
for such development, and never be allowed to 
become pot-bound. Should this occur, you will not 
have fine plants, as it gives a check that cannot be 
undone. You may obviate the difficulty by examin- 
ing the roots every now and then; and, if they 
entirely fill the pots, by slipping the mass out, and 
transferring to pots of larger size. 

Possibly your plants will need to be changed three 
or four times if you wish to make the most of them. 
At first, as you understand, they are in very small 
pots; but by the blooming period, that is about Sep- 
tember, a large plant may require a ten-inch pot. 

To summarize : Remember that Chrysanthemums 
want a great deal of water; are gross feeders; should 
have liquid manure when blooming; and are shaped 
by pinching and training to suit your individual 
taste. 

Keep them back until August, and then let the 
buds form. 

If you desire to have large flowers, such as you see 
in florists' windows, or at flower shows, you must 
rub or pinch off the greater part of the buds; it is 
only by this means, called disbudding, that they are 
made. 

Sometimes, in order to obtain an exceptionally 
large flower, gardeners will leave only one or two 
buds on; and but two or three shoots, or even a 
single shoot to a plant. The roots, having but this 



44 Clrirysa.nLthiemij.m 

one shoot and bud to nourish, throw all their strength 
into it, making an abnormally large flower, over 
which the generality of people will be lost in amaze- 
ment, not understanding the secret of its produc- 
tion. 

These potted Chrysanthemums may be left out 
imtil quite late ; but must surely be inside before the 
appearance of a frost. On mild days, however, they 
can hardly be kept too open and cool. 

Accustom them gradually to the change of tempera- 
ture. Any sudden transition will be apt to turn the 
foliage yellow, which gives them an unsightly ap- 
pearance, and also weakens both plants and flowers: 
one must bear in mind that the leaves are their 
lungs. 

Keep your windows down at the tops to give them 
air. Sprinkle the leaves if possible. While they 
never must know the want of water, or ever become 
dry^ yet they will not require so much water when 
flowering. 

Wash 2£/^// before moving into the house, to dis- 
possess the Chrysanthemum Flea, which is a great 
pest. If the vermin reappears, you will have to dis- 
lodge it with tobacco dust, blown on with a small 
bellows; but do not get this on your flowers. 

Another way is to take the plants outside, if the 
whether is mild enough, and wash them with a solu- 
tion of whale oil soap. Even common laundry soap 
is good, if clear water will not rid you of the fleas. 
But, whatever you tise, the advice holds good: keep 
it from the flowers, as it will spoil their bloom. 

In applying any of these insecticides, it is always 
best to rinse olf the plant with clear water within 
twenty-fo'ur hours. 



ChLrysarLthiemi_im. 45 

If you have many plants, some early, others late, 
or medium; and have a cold room, yet one where 
they will not freeze; you can, by a little good man- 
agement, have cut flowers, or blooming plants until 
nearly Christmas. They will begin to open up their 
bloom in succession, being retarded somewhat by the 
temperature of the room. You can take one or more 
at a time into the heat of your living-room, and the 
sunshine of your pet window. Here they should 
mature to perfection, unfolding all their glorious 
panoply of color in gorgeous array, elating you with 
pride at your success, and making you an object 
of envy to all your visitors. 

By having a few of each of the many varieties, and 
keeping them as cool as possible, well watered, and 
vigorous, you can prolong the blooming period, more 
and more, as you learn by experience their wants, 
and just how to manage them. 

As the florists have, by experimenting, induced 
Chrysanthemums to linger with us to an indefinite 
period : so now they are trying to reverse their 
methods and inveigle them into unfolding their 
beauty much earlier. This is particularly gratifying to 
the plants' admirers, who have no facilities for raising 
or keeping them anywhere but outside : we are thus 
enabled, by planting the early sons, to get the benefit 
of their bloom before they are cut ofl: by frost. 

After Chrysanthemums have finished flowering, 
cut them back; and set away the pots in some cool, 
well lighted, but frost- proof cellar or room. They will 
need no attention until about the first of March. 
Then take them out; and you probably will find that 
the greater portion have started, and thrown up 
many sprouts 



4:6 Ctirysantlnerntjim 

Place them in the light, and water them ; they 
should soon commence to grow vigorously. 

These sprouts, and a portion of the roots attached, 
generally can be cut from the parent plant with a 
sharp knife. 

Pot these cuttings, singly, in small pots of rich soil; 
water carefully imtil you find them growing well; 
and change to larger pots as fast as the small ones 
become filled with roots. They must not be checked, 




CllKYSANTHEMUMS 



but kept growing steadily all the while. This will 
make a wonderful difference in their appearance and 
florescence during the coming season. 

I believe that I have given you about all my 
personal knowledge of the genus Chrysanthemum, 
though there probably is much more to be known 
regarding them. It appears unnecessary to recom- 
mend any particular member of the family, as most 
all of them are good, and individual tastes differ, 



Daisies 



47 



each of us having especial pets or loves. And, 
while I could go into ecstasies over my own favor- 
ites, having a very expansive heart for all the floral 
world, I am fearful that the list, once begun, might 
be interminable. So it seems best to suggest to you 
a conference with some reliable dealer in these 
autumn queens. vShould I, however, name any as 
fascinating pets, I think it would be some of the 
charming Ostrich Plume variet3\ 

DAISIES 

'yh^ Their botanical name is Bellis. They 
i JtL ^i"s hardy herbaceous perennials, 
^^^j which, like Pansies, may be ar- 
ranged during the autumn in low 
boxes, or ''flats," as gardeners call 
them; and covered up, in the same 
manner suggested for Pansies, for 
early spring blooming. 

These boxes or flats can be made 

to fit your windows. Being only 

a few inches wide and deep, they 

DAISIES occupy but little space ; they are 

not much trouble ; and you will find the Daisies very 

cheering as bright heralds of advancing spring. 

Prepare your flats in the size you wish ; fill them 
with good loam, and put in your plants. Sink these, 
as advised for Pansies ; and cover with leaves before 
frost. 

Bring the boxes inside to a warm position when 
you wish to start the plants into active growth. 
Water them carefully; and, when sufficiently ad- 
vanced, give them a shady window where they will 
get only the morning sun. 




48 



Datuira 



DATURA 

This is generally an annual. The shrubby va- 
rieties, in my opinion the best of the family, are 
termed Brugmansias. 

The foliage of Daturas is rather coarse-looking; 
but they can be trained into handsomely shaped 




DATURA 

Specimens of miniature trees, from which the large 
flowers, white, yellow, violet, or red, hang in pro- 
fusion. They are worth growing, if you have room, 
and care to experiment with them. 

In summer they do well out-of-doors, where you 
can train them into any shape that suits your fancy. 
In fall you may either bring them into the sitting- 



Datura 49 



room, or store them in a cool cellar where they will 
be dry. 

Daturas bear severe pruning, and may be cut to 
keep in any form or size. The best time to prune 
or trim them, is immediately after they have finished 
flowering-, or in the fall. 

Brugmansias, or shrubby Daturas, are naturally 
evergreens ; but they do well when treated as decid- 
uous, that is, when allowed to drop their leaves; 
they should then be put away somewhere to rest 
awhile, from about December until February. You 
may, however, let them continue growling right on. 

They must be kept dry and cool when resting in 
the winter. 

The head may be made by stopping the main stem ; 
this is done by pinching when it becomes sufficiently 
tall. Keep all side shoots or laterals rubbed off 
until this main stem has attained the proper height. 
After you have stopped its growth upward, let it 
throw out branches until it gets a round handsome 
shape; you need not hesitate to trim the plant to 
accomplish this. 

When it has once developed into the required 
form and size, each year's growth may be cut back, 
directly after flowering, to where the leading- 
branches originate. 

Old plants do better than young ones, flowering 
much more freely. 

When they are blooming, manure water is very 
beneficial ; it not only gives strength to the plants, 
but also increases the size and quantity of the 
flowers. 

Daturas are apt to be infested with White Scale, 
for which you must keep a sharp lookout. 



50 Kiachisia 



Datura Suaveolens also known under the synonym 
Brugmansia Suaveolens, has large, sweet-scented, 
white flowers. It is a handsome greenhouse shrub, 
from Mexico, and makes a good standard. 

Datura Sanguinea is a summer bloomer, which can 
be trained into a very handsome plant. Its stems 
are arboreous, or treelike, and the flowers orange- 
yellow. 

Some varieties have double flowers and are said to 
be very fine; but I have never seen them. 

FUCHSIA 

A genus of some fifty species, mostly natives of 
Central and South America, having been brought 
from Mexico, ChiH and Peru. It was named after 
Leonard Flichs, a German botanist, who lived in the 
sixteenth century. It is one of the most ornamen- 
tal and popular of garden plants. 

Fuchsias love shade and moisture, with a rich soil, 
preferring fine leaf mould and sand. If you cannot 
get leaf mould, use the best soil you have; but make 
it porous, that it may not become sodden. These 
plants must have plenty of water; and be sure that 
your drainage is perfect. If they get dry, they will 
drop both leaves, and buds. 

Do not use very small pots. Fuchsias require 
ample room in which to develop their roots; if they 
become pot-bound, it checks their growth for a long 
time. Shift to larger-sized pots as soon as the earth 
becomes filled with roots; water the roots and syringe 
he foliage daily. Allow them, while growing and 
blooming, only the early morning sun; give occa- 
sional doses of manure water; and you should have 



52 Focti^sia 



fine-looking plants covered with large and beautiful 
flowers. 

While Fuchsias are lovely summer-blooming 
plants, they cannot continue flowering all winter, as 
they must have rest. If not planted out, but kept in 
their pots, they may continue bearing through No- 
vember, and part of December; then they should be 
set away in some c^)ol place where they will not 
freeze, with just enough moisture allowed to prevent 
their drying up. 

When they show signs of growth in the spring, 
repot and trim them; give them more water, gradu- 
ally ; they soon will be attending to the season's work, 
and be ready to take their place again in your favorite 
window. The older your plant, the more graceful 
and beautiful it will be. 

They must have a support of some kind, as they 
are very brittle, and apt to be broken. 

Fuchsias may be grown in a variety of shapes to 
suit the taste, by training to stakes, and pinching. 

Cut them back quite closely when you trim them 
in the spring, so that when they break into new 
growth they may make stocky and shapely plants. 
Thus they will present a much better appearance 
than if allowed to follow their own sweet will; in the 
latter case they are sure to be straggling and un- 
gainly. Indeed there are few plants which are not 
improved by a judicious use of the pruning-shears. 

Their mortal foe is the Red Spider, which will cer- 
tainly attack them in a dry atmosphere. To avoid 
this, syringe them daily, throwing the water up on 
the underside of the foliage. If this is not done, and 
the insects get leeway, they will soon ruin your cher- 
ished plants. 



Geranit_ims 53 



When Fuchsias are outside, if you wish to prolong- 
their blooming in the fall, you may do so by nipping 
off the terminals, which will force them to throw out 
many laterals, thus producing fine full heads. If you 
pick off all buds that form until about the middle or 
last part of August; them let them make as many as 
they will; and feed them liberally; they will remain 
in bloom a long time. But to do this they must have 
a light, airy, and very cool situation; must be kept in 
their pots all the while; and be frequently turned, to 
IDrevent the roots from growing through, and the 
plants from being drawn by the sun. 

Another way to have them late in the house, is to 
start young plants the fir.vtweek in August, and force 
them ahead with rich feeding. 

I have said that Fuchsias were only summer 
bloomers. Excepting a few stray flowers, I have 
heard of but one which will bloom in winter, namely, 

Speciosa 

Phenomenal is a grand summer-blooming plant with 
enormous flowers. 

Florists now offer many beautiful Fuchsias, which 
are improvements upon the older varieties. They 
are exceedingly numerous, as the catalogues every 
year present some so-called new type or types for our 
consideration. One can hardly go astray, however, 
in making a selection, as, under proper cultivation, 
they all have decided merit. 

Storm King is a favorite of mine. 

GERANIUMS 

It would be hard to find plants better known than 
these, or more popular, as we meet them everywhere, 
and no garden is without them. They have been hy- 



54 GerairLitams 



bridized, and crossed, until the old type is hardly 
recognizable in the varied and multitudinous fancy 
specimens, which the progressive gardener has pro- 
duced for our delectation. 

They flourish in an}^ good soil, but must have 
proper drainage and all the sun possible. 

Out-of-doors they take care of themselves to a cer- 
tain extent, and require no particular cultural direc- 
tions. 

Inside in winter, it is a different story. I have seen 
them thriving in apparently impossible situations. 
On the other hand, I have struggled to keep them 
alive by bestowing upon them the most tender atten- 
tions, only to see them gently fade away. My fortune 
thus continued to vary until I discovered the true in- 
wardness and secret of it all, in studying the require- 
ments of their existence. 

In the first place, plants that you wish to go on 
growing and blooming in the house during the win- 
ter, must be prepared for it during the summer by 
being kept in their pots, instead of being put into the 
ground, as most people do with them. Get young 
plants to begin with, and, as soon as they are four or 
five inches high, commence pinching them, taking off 
the top; this will force them to send out laterals. Nip 
these also, to form side growth; and continue the pro- 
cess until you have secured a nice, bushy, compact 
plant, well covered with leaves, in place of an un- 
gainly, tall, awkward-looking specimen. By making 
it form branches close to the roots, and letting these 
form branches in turn, you can obtain a lovely, 
gracefully rounded plant, which will have an ex- 
tended blooming surface from these various tops, or 
ends of branches. 



Geraniums 



55 



Having gotten your plants into good shape, keep 
them as dormant as possible; this is accomplished by 
not giving more water than is necessary to prevent 
them from drying out during the summer months. 
The reason is, in order that they may be rested and 
ready for the winter work ; for they must have rest, 




GERANIUMS 

and, if you do not give it to them, they will take it 
when you most desire their active service. 

Nex.t, scrupulously remove every bud that ventures 
an appearance. 

About September first, repot the plants in good 



56 Geraniums 



rich loam, after shaking off most of the old soil; 
water thoroughly; and get them growing vigorously 
by cold weather. Be sure that the pots are not too 
large, but just hold them comfortably; the roots are 
small, and do not need very much room. Moreover, 
as in the case of many other blooming plants. Gera- 
niums, if the pots are too large, will either be sickly 
and possibly die, or will run to root, as gardeners 
say, at the expense of the tops and all hope of bloom. 

Keep them outside as long as they can escape 
frost; and, when you do bring them into the house, 
keep them in as cool a position as is possible, short 
of freezing — such as in a room without fire, or one 
that is not in use, where you can shut off the furnace 
heat. They do not like the dry heat, though they 
can be induced to stand it by careful watering, and 
by giving air frequently — opening every mild day 
some door or window, not on, but near by them. 

See that the leaves are kept clean. If you have 
any means of sprinklings it will benefit them, as they 
delight in a shower-bath until they begin blooming. 
Then give more water, being sure, however, that 
your drainage is so perfect that the soil cannot 
become sour or sodden. 

It is a good guiding rule to wait until the earth 
gets dry or crumbly on top of pots before watering; 
then drench well, seeing that the water passes read- 
ily through the soil and into the saucer; here it 
must not be allowed to stand, as any considerable 
quantity of it will rot the roots. If your earth is in 
proper condition, and has not been allowed to 
entirely dry out, water should disappear in a few 
moments when poured on the top of soil, coming out 
into the saucers. 



Geraniums 57 



If you will observe a florist's plants, you will 
notice that they appear moist and compact, but never 
muddy, or sodden-looking-. The secret of this is the 
drainage, and the gritty sand almost always incor- 
porated with the loam. 

Place Geraniums in your sunniest windows, near 
the glass ; for, while they protest against furnace or 
dry heat, they love the sun, and the more they get 
the better they like it. 

When they begin to bloom, as they should with- 
out delay — if they had not already commenced be- 
fore being brought in — they will be grateful for a 
little weak manure water, given about once a week, 
and will show their gratitude by increased and 
larger bloom. 

If, after all these suggestions have been faithfully 
carried out on your part, the plants do not gladden 
your very soul with their beauty, they are simply 
sulking, and do not deserve a place of honor by your 
fireside, but should be relegated to the cool cellar, 
if you possess one, and hung up by their heels, or 
roots rather, to live or die as they think best until 
another season. 

Some people think that a Geranium is of no further 
use after it is a year old ; but, as a matter of fact, 
the longer you keep them the more beautiful they 
become. I have met with plants many seasons old 
that were ''things of beauty and a joy forever," 
grown to an enormous size, and covered with masses 
of bloom. I have often seen the low windows of 
some mere shanty, a barber shop, or some small 
store, filled with the beauties, possibly growing in a 
tin can, brilliant with clusters of flowers. The 
reason why they appeared so prosperous and happ3% 



58 Geraniiams 



was that they were kept not too hot, and had no dry 
furnace heat or gas to contend with. 

There are many classes in the Geranium family, 
and each one has its partisans, though all of the 
tribe are general favorites. 

Among the sweet-scented we have the popular 
and well known 

Rose Geranium. This is fine for cutting, but un- 
fortunately it is very susceptible to Aphides, and 
consequently needs much watering: not only does 
it attract the pests, but they soon spread to your 
other plants, and the whole ^group may become in- 
fested. 

Lemon Qeranium has a coarser leaf, but is desirable. 

Apple Qeranium is very graceful, and delightfully 
fragrant. 

Nutmeg Qeranium is a dwarf with a spicy odor. 

These varieties, which are grown simply for their 
foliage, should have more pot room than those of 
the flowering kind. 

Ivy Leaf Qeraniums have been brought to a state 
of great perfection, and are exquisitely beautiful, 
with their dark, ivy-shaped, waxen-looking leaves, 
and large trusses of lovely tinted bloom. They are 
increasing in popularity every year, being excellent 
subjects for vases or hanging baskets. They also 
look well in pots on brackets, or can be tied up with 
bast on a trellis, which shows off their bloom with 
good effect. 

The double sorts are much handsomer than the sin- 
gle. They are all so lovely that it is difficult to make 
a selection. They come in white, and shades of pink ; 
and the florists have lately produced a rich scarlet. 



Geraniiams 59 



Zonals, or Bedding: Geraniums, are so multitudinous 
that it is hard to give a:i adequate description of 
them. They are continually increasing in number, 
and each year, through cross-breeding and hybridiz- 
ing, there are introduced many new ones which 
are improvements on their progenitors. Individual 
tastes differ to such a degree that it is well for each 
one to make his or her own choice, especially as most 
of the varieties are good. Some may like the single 
bloomers best, while others will prefer the double 
type. It is hard to go astray ; and any respectable 
florist, or florist's catalogue will assist you in making 
a decision. My own chief effort is to enlighten those 
in ignorance as to the wants of their plants, and how 
to care for them. 

Besides those above mentioned we have the fol- 
lowing specimens, which are used for ornamental 
bedding as well as pot culture, and require the same 
treatment as the others : 

Silver Geraniums 
Bronze Geraniums 

Still again come 

Lady Washington Geraniun*s. They are so numer- 
ous and varied in their beautiful coloring that it 
would be indeed a labor of love to attempt their 
description. 

With so many to choose from it is difficult to make 
an error. 

I do not recommend these last named fancy 
Pelargoniums as window plants for the winter; they 
have to be kept almost at the freezing point, and 
very dry, to rest them for their spring blooming, 
which does not then continue long. So, while they 



Heliotrope — Iberis 



never fail to excite our admiration, I do not think 
their bloom prolific enough to repay the care which 
thev demand. 

HELIOTROPE 

Heliotropiums, or Heliotropes, a name by which 
they are generally called and better known, can, like 

Mignonettes, be grown 
in the house in medium- 
sized pots, and with very 
similar general treat- 
ment. They, also, re- 
quire to be kept cool 
when inside, as much 
dry heat will quickly 
shrivel both bloom and 
foliage, making them 
look as if they had been 
through a fire. Exces- 
sive heat will soon finish 
these plants, while too 
much cold will do the same. You must, therefore, 
strike a happy mean, and endeavor to keep them in 
about fifty-five degrees of heat during the winter. 

Young plants kept in a warm position outside 
during the summer — to well ripen the wood — not 
allowed to bloom, trained and pinched into good- 
shaped specimens, taken into the house in September, 
carefully watered, and kept cool, should make an 
effective return for the attention shown them. 




HELIOTROPE 



IBERIS 

Candytuft. This also will make a bright spot 
amidst your winter verdure. It is called after 
Iberia, the Greek name for Spain. The genus com- 



Impatiens 



61 



prises a good many species, all of which do well in 
ordinary garden soil, provided they have plenty of 
sun and air. 

They are increased b)^ seed, division, or cuttings. 

Some of the sub-shrubby varieties make handsome, 
compact-looking plants. 

Iberis Coronaria. Rocket Candytuft, is a fine 
annual species, pure wliite in 
color, bearing dense spikes at 
the tops of the stems. 

Iberis Semperflorens (ever 
flowering), is a fragrant peren- 
nial, large and white, growing 
about two feet high ; it blooms 
from autumn until spring. 

Iberis Sempervirens is an ever- 
green candytuft, bearing long 
pure white flowers thoughout 
the spring and summer. This 

is a shrubby species, one of the best perennial varie- 
ties, and exceedingly useful in almost any style of 
gardening. 

There are many other varieties of Candytuft. All 
are easily grown, and will do nearly as well in pots 
as in the ground. They are effective in the house 
chiefly by way of contrast with the greens of other 

plants. 

IMPATIENS 

A name given to the Balsam family, meaning im- 
patient. If you are acquainted with the tribe, you 
will wonder what I can have to say about them for 
house culture. 

I wish to recommend a member of the family, 
which I think you will appreciate. 




IBERIS 



62 



Lanta.n^ 



Impatientes are a genus containing many species; 
they are very easily grown, being readily raised 
from seed ; and do well in any ordinary light soil. 
I shall refer to only one variety, for the window 
garden ; though they are all excellent annuals for 
the summer garden. 

Impatiens Sultani is a perennial herb which will 
bloom most of the year, being almost a continuous 
flowerer; and, while there are more elegant plants, 
it is such a cheery little thing that I am sure you 
will find it just the bit of color 
needed to lighten up your more 
sombre greens. 

It comes from Zanzibar orig- 
inally, I believe, but is now quite 
at home with us. The flowers 
are a bright scarlet, differing 
from the rest of the Balsams in 
the petals being quite flat, sin- 
gle, and clustering in masses 
over the head of the plant in 
a manner that is very pleasing 
to the eye. 
It is one of the prettiest and most easily grown of 
plants, doing well outside ; and asking in the house 
only rich, open soil, not too much water, not too 
much pot room, with a moderately cool and dry 
atmosphere, to repay you with a wealth of bloom. 




IMPATIENS SULTANI 



LANTANA 

Said to bean old Italian name for "Wayfaring- 
tree." It is a genus of some fifty species of stove 
evergreen shrubs, or herbs, that have always been 
very popular, particularly for window gardening. 



Nl a. he mi a 63 



They are not at all difficult to manage, and give 
quantities of bloom during six or seven months of 
the year. They are readily increased, if you desire 
new plants, by cuttings in August or September; 
and like a generous soil of rich loam and manure. 

If you wish to grow them in tree shape, pinch or 
prune until their form pleases you, as they will stand 
any amount of it. 

When they are growing freely, be liberal with 
water. Young plants do well outside in summer. 
But old ones, cut back and repotted, make better 
house plants than very 3^oung ones ; their growth 
being shorter-jointed, produces a larger amount of 
flowers. 

They range through many shades of red, orange, 
white, purplish red, straw color and rose ; and may 
be grouped effectively on account of this diversit}^ 
Lantanas to some are not very pleasant in their 
odor; but personally I am fond of growing them. 

MAHERNIA 

Mahernia Odorata, generally known as Honey Bell, 
belongs to a genus of some thirty species of pretty 
greenhouse herbs; not many of them, however, are 
cultivated. This one of the family is not brilliantly 
attractive ; but it is worth growing for its fragrance, 
which will fill the house if you can spare it some 
shady spot. It bears small yellow flowers, belJ- 
shaped; and if you set it where it can hang or droop 
over, pinching off the young shoots repeatedly, to 
force a lateral growth and keep it from straggling, 
you will scarcely regret the space it occupies. 

Mahernias like a light, rich, well drained soil, kept 



64 NUgnonette 

moderately wet ; their leaves also should be sprinkled, 
or dipped in tepid water, every day. 

Mahernia Glabrata has rather large, yellow, drooping 
flowers, somewhat like a Jonquil in fragrance. It 
comes from the Cape of Good Hope. 

riahernia Incisa, also from the Cape, is a dark crim- 
son when in the bud, but in opening gradually be- 
comes yellowish. It is an attractive shrub, flowering 
in the latter part of summer. 

These plants propagate freely during summer, 
from cuttings of young shoots. 

MIGNONETTE 

Reseda Odorata. A well known plant that many 
people are fond of. It has no especial value to me, 
except for its fragrance, which is very pleasing. 
Others, possibly, may like to know how to take care 
of it, and make it grow in the house. 

To begin with, have the pot, or pots, perfectly 
clo-<n and properly drained; then fill them with a 
CO npost of about two parts loam, one of dried cow 
V anure, and one of old sifted mortar, if you can get it. 

Careful handling is necessary, as the shoots are 
very brittle; and the individual plants, before they 
get large enough to fall about, inust each be tied to 
a stick. 

If you grow your plants from seed, sprinkle a few 
seed in August in five or six-inch pots prepared as 
just suggested; then do the same again in Septem- 
ber for succession, if you wish to prolong the bloom- 
ing period. Cover lightly, water, and place in some 
cool spot, where they can remain, possibly tmtil 
October, if there be no frost. 



Nlignonette 



65 



When they come up, and are grown large enough, 
thin them out imtil they are about an inch apart, 
taking out the poorest. Give plenty of water at the 
roots in summer; but it never must be allowed to 
stagnate. In winter give very sparingly without ever 
entirely withholding. 




MIGNONETTE 



As the days lengthen, and your plants begin to 
grow freely, tJien give an abundance of water. 

In the house, a shelf in a light position, where 
they can get plenty of outside air — though this must 
not be cold enough to chill or freeze them — in a tem- 



66 



Nicotiana. 



perature of from forty to fifty-five degrees, will suit 
them admirably. 

When flowering, weak manure water will be very 
helpful, and increase the size of the bloom. 

NICOTIANA 

Called after Jean Nicot, who introduced Tobacco 
into France; it is a genus of some fifty species. The 
Tobacco that most women loathe is an important 
member of the family. But 
even this disgraceful fact has 
not been the means of con- 
demning or ostracizing all the 
rest; for some of them are 
greatly admired in tropical 
gardening; and they do re- 
markably well as house plants. 
They like a rich, deep soil, 
.and a rather moist situation. 
Given these, they will grow 
rapidly. 

Nicotiana Affinis is the variety 
with which I am most familiar. The flower has a long 
slender tube, and is white inside, greenish outside, 
and hairy all over except within the corolla. It will 
thrive and bloom freely in a six-inch pot, making a 
very pretty decoration for the house, and can be 
plunged outside in summer. The flowers are partly 
closed during the day, but open about six p. m., and 
emit a strong perfume during the night. This is a 
half hardy annual herb. 

Nicotiana Fragrans, from the Isle of Pines south of 
Cuba, will grow three or four feet high, and is a very 
fragrant, cool, greenhouse herb. 




NICOTIANA 



Pansies 67 



Nicotiana Glauca, from Buenos Ayres, is a shrub, 
bearing- yellow flowers covered all over with a soft 
down. 

Nicotiana Tabacum is the common Tobacco, and has 
downy rose-colored bloom. 

Nicotiana Acutiflora, from Brazil, is a handsome 
annual herb, which blooms from June until frost. 

Nicotiana Wigandioides is a pretty greenhouse shrub 
with yellowish-white flowers; it is an excellent plant 
for tropical grouping outside in summer. 

PANSIES 

Many people who are fond of Pansies, and would 
like to have them in their living-rooms, turning their 
windows in the early spring days into miniature 
gardens, can readily succeed when once they learn 
how to grow them. 

If, during August, you have pansies growing- out- 
side, take from them and root, in some cool moist 
spot, enough scions to fill a box — or boxes if you 
wish to have many — about five or six inches deep, 
long enough to fit your windows, and about five 
inches wide. Have some holes in the boxes, and 
sufficient drainage. An inch of rubble, or small 
pebbles strewed thickly over the bottom, will do. 
Fill with rich sandy soil, and plant in it your rooted 
cuttings. 

Just before frost, dig out the ground in the most 
sheltered corner you have, and sink your box in this 
pit, packing the loose soil firmly against it on all 
sides. And before the first frost, cover the box well 
with leaves, or salt hay, throwing a little brush on 
top to prevent its blowing away. This will keep the 



Pansier 



cuttings from freezing", and encourage root formation. 

If they should be covered with snow it will cause 
no injury, but, on the contrary, will keep them warm 
and protect them against cold. 

There should be no danger of water settling about, 




or in your boxes, and freezing, which would destroy 
the Pansies. If the place is well drained, you need 
have no further care, until you are ready to use the 
plants. 

In covering them over, be sure that you leave 



F*etonia 69 

plenty of ventilation; they must neither be smoth- 
ered, nor kept too warm. 

In the latter instance, they would commence grow- 
ing; and when you needed them, you might find 
that they had exhausted all their energies unseen 
and unappreciated. 

At any time from February on, when you wish to 
see their pretty faces near you, lift your box, wash it 
off, and bring it into the house. Give them a light 
window, where they will get only the morning sun. 
A northern one is good, because it is cooler; and 
they must not be kept too warm. Attend carefully 
to watering. Pick off all flowers as soon as they 
begin to fade, or sooner if you wish them : the more 
you cut, the more bloom you will have. 

Pansies are gross feeders, and enjoy weak manure 
water. 

Do not let them form seed, if you wish flowers. 

Varieties are endless. You must select for your- 
self. 

PETUNIA 

From petun^ the Brazilian for Tobacco. A name 
given on account of the relation of this plant to the 
genus Nicotiana, both being of the same order, So- 
lanaceae, to which also Nightshade, Solanum, be- 
longs. 

These plants are very showy and effective, either 
for the summer border, or when grown in pots for 
the house. Florists have of late years made great 
improvements in them ; they are quite different from 
the specimens known two or three generations ago ; 
and some of the double varieties are very beautiful. 

Petunias, which are easily raised and cared for, 
should, in order to make bushy and compact plants. 



70 



F*etonia 



be pinched before they g-row very tall. They like a 
g-ood soil with some manure in it, and plenty of 
water. They need also to be supported in some 
manner, either by being fastened to slender stakes, 
or by being trained against a light trellis. 

They give an abundance of bloom towards the 
end of summer, through the fall months, and during 
the greater portion of winter. When they are ex- 
hausted, and are forced to stop to recuperate, cut 
them sharply back to within an inch or two of the 
pots; give manure water about 
once a week ; and they will soon 
throw up new shoots, which in a 
little while will again be work- 
ing diligently to supply you 
with flowers. 

Some persons say that the 

single varieties are best for the 

house. I am not prepared to 

dispute the point, but think the 

double ones much handsomer. 

They all need to be cut back 

quite frequently, as the flowers 

are produced on the new shoots: you will have 

hut little bloom if you neglect to prune in such a 

way as to force the production of new branches. 

Petunias can be raised from seed. But where you 
wish only a few plants, it is as well to purchase them 
of a florist; from these you can propagate other 
plants in the spring. 

It is advisable to use* cuttings in making new 
plants for winter bloom. Though the old ones may 
be forced to prolong their blooming period, their 
younger and more vigorous progeny will be more 




PETUNIA 



Phormiuim. 71 



reliable. If you start cuttings about two weeks 
apart, for succession, you can have Petunias in flower 
during the greater part of the year. 

By starting some in February, and more again in 
March, you will be supplied for the summer. From 
these again, or from the old ones, start others from 
May until August, to provide for the winter. Their 
different ages will cause a succession, which should 
furnish you with active workers; and, as one after 
another becomes exhausted, you can cut it back, and 
set it away to rest, putting one of its younger rela- 
tives in its place. 

PHORMIUM 

From phormos^ a basket. Order Liliaceae. Com- 
monly called Flax Lily, or New Zealand Flax. This 
is a very small genus of herbs with fleshy roots, com- 
ing from New Zealand, and nearly hardy. 

Phormiums are easily grown in good rich loam. 
Large specimens, with their erect swordlike leaves, 
make an exceedingly fine effect, either outside or in 
the house, among Palms, Cycads and other tropical 
plants. 

Water them sparingly during winter, but do not 
let them dry up. 

To increase your stock, divide the crowns before 
active growth begins in the spring. 

Phormium Tenax, meaning tough, is the common 
New Zealand Flax with variable yellow, or red flow- 
ers, and dark green rigid foliage. It attains a height 
of from three to six feet, the tips of the leaves split- 
ting as they grow old. 

Phormium Tenax Variegatum is a pretty dark green 
plant, handsomely striped with white and yellow. 



72 F*liJim.t)ago 

Phormium Tenax Veitchianum is a fine variety with 
shorter leaves of a pea green color; these have a 
band of creamy white extending down their whole 
length. 

Phormium Tenax Nigro Pictum, a black spotted, com- 
pact grower, with smaller leaves, is of a more dwarf 
habit than the rest of the type. 

Phormium Cookianum Variegatum is a beautifully 
marked plant, smaller and handsomer in every way 
than Phormium Tenax; and its leaves are not liable 
to split at the ends. 

PLUMBAGO 

A well known large genus of greenhouse, or hardy 
perennial herbs, with an occasional shrubby variety 
among them. They are desirable for color effect, 
one or two of the number being good winter bloomers, 
and adapted to house culture. 

Plumbago Capensis, from the Cape of Good Hope, is 
a climbing or decumbent shrub, with loose clusters 
of pale blue flowers, which are produced on the new 
growth. It is a strong, rampant grower, and needs 
careful pruning to keep it in shape; it is also a re- 
markably free bloomer, flowering all through the 
summer and the greater part of winter. 

Its color is rare among plants, for there are very 
few blue flowers produced by Nature. 

Cut these plants sharply back about every two 
months; keep them growing; and give manure water 
to strengthen the bloom. They like a warm situa- 
tion. If you have several plants, by keeping them 
in separate places where there are different degrees 
of heat — placing them in a moderately cool position 
to retard growth, and moving to a warmer one when 



Reinwardtia 



you are ready for them, thus prolonging the bloom- 
ing period — you can secure a succession. 

Plumbago Rosea is a good winter-flowering plant, 
with rose-colored flowers growing in long terminal 
spikes. It blooms in July, and needs more heat than 
Capensis; it is a stove perennial, and comes from the 
East Indies. 

Plumbago Coccinea is a very fine one, with much 
larger and more highly colored flowers. 

Plumbago Larpentae (Lady Larpent's) is a hardy 
perennial, with close heads of violet bloom. 

Plumbago Scandens, Toothwort, is a white-flowered 
variety. 

I cannot answer for the behavior of any of them in 
the house, excepting Capensis. Most of them, how- 
ever, thrive in the garden. A good loam, sand, and 
a little peat, suit them best. They should be rested 
at some time during the winter, by being kept rather 
dry. 

They are readily propagated by rooted shoots taken 
from the bases of the plants. 

REINWARDTIA 

This is a winter-flowering greenhouse shrub, gen- 
erally known as Linum Trigynum. Named after 
K. G. K. Reinwardt, who was director of the Botanic 
Garden at Leyden. They are members of the Flax 
family, but form a very small genus. 

The best ones, in ni}^ opinion, are: 

Reinwardtia Trigynum and 
Reinwardtia Tetragynum 

Though very ornamental, Reinwardtias are but 
seldom seen ; and this appears strange when we re- 



74 Salvia 



member how few good winter-blooming- plants there 
are. I consider them a decided acquisition, with 
their bright yellow flowers, which, during the dullest 
months of the year, cover the plants in the utmost 
profusion. 

Old stock can be cut back and will make fresh 
growth; but new plants, raised each year from cut- 
tings, give better satisfaction. Cuttings from wood 
that is quite firm, without being too hard, planted in 
a shady place under a hand glass, soon take root; 
and when strong enough they can be potted and 
grown on for winter use. 

While they are young, pinch them freely, to cause 
a compact growth, and make a full head. Let them 
have plenty of sun and outdoor air, as late as possible 
in the fall, to ripen the new shoots and prepare them 
for later blooming. They will need about fifty-five 
degrees of heat to develop their flowers. Keep them 
from damping off, after fires are started. 

Their bright coloring, prolonged blooming, prod- 
igality of flowers, and easiness of cultivation, make 
them very desirable and attractive for the house. 

They are not exacting as to soil, but it should be 
at least good. Water them carefully, and syringe 
the tops frequently, or the Red vSpider, that fell 
destroyer to which the plant is subject, will soon end 
their existence. In spite of this drawback, I should 
say by all means try a few plants, and exercise a 
little care to preserve them. Success will repay 
you. 

SALVIA 

Sage belongs to an exceedingly large genus of 
nearly five hundred species, thriving in the warm or 
temperate portions of the earth. These plants are 



Salvia. 75 



greenhouse, hardy or half hardy, annual, biennial, 
or perennial herbs or shrubs, generally with showy 
flowers, of various colors. As you will probably 
not care to keep the whole family, I shall describe 
only those which I consider the most desirable, and 
endeavor to suggest how to provide for them. 

Salvia Officinalis is the hardy common garden Sage, 
so much used in cooking. 

Salvia Patens is a handsome half hardy perennial, 
with deep blue flowers of good size, blooming in the 
fall ; and, if grown in pots, it can be forced to con- 
tinue the flowering season in the house. 

Salvia Patens Alba is a white variety of the same 
type. 

The following are two of the best: 

Salvia Splendens, and its variety 

Salvia Splendens Bruantii, which is of a more dwarf 
habit, and a fine garden species. 

All Salvias like rich soil, and plenty of root room ; 
they are easily raised from seed ; and cuttings of the 
young wood, in a growing state, root readily. Equal 
parts of loam and manure will not be too rich for 
them, if grown in pots. In the ground, in summer, 
they will thrive almost anywhere, but should have 
a sunny situation. 

They make good house plants, if properly pre- 
pared, and cared for. By daily immersion in water, 
or copious showering where convenient, they may 
be kept free from the Red Spider, which if not 
guarded against will soon destroy them. When it 
is necessary to take them in for the winter, you must 
have young plants, ones that have not yet com- 
menced, or are just beginning to bloom. These are 



76 Violets 



obtained from cuttings rooted in August; or, you 
can get young plants from the lower part of your 
old ones, with enough root of the parent plant at- 
tached, to grow right on as soon as potted. 

The young progeny will soon make good-sized 
specimens, which, when you have to take them in — 
probably early in November, as they must not be 
touched by frost — will be just getting ready to 
bloom. 

Cut the flowers as soon as they fade, and new 
branches will shoot out, to bloom in their turn. 

Feed Salvias with manure water, and you will 
have flowers for a long time. 

VIOLETS 

Violae. A very large genus, most of them being 
hardy perennials, and low-growing plants, rarely 
reaching a height of more than five or six inches. 

Viola Odorata, varieties of which generally are seen 
in gardens and windows, is a great favorite with 
almost every one, especially during winter and early 
spring. Like Pansies, and Daisies, Violets can be 
used to fill boxes or pots for the house, or be grown 
in a cold frame outside. 

If wanted for a window, fill with rich soil, late in 
September, a well drained box, six inches deep by 
six inches wide, and as long as the window. Put in 
your plants, about six inches apart ; keep them out- 
side as late as possible; and, when brought in, give 
them a cool sunny situation with plenty of air, and 
plenty of water. 

Frequent showerings will subdue the Red Spider, 
their deadly foe. If you have much dry heat these 
pests soon become rampant. 



Violets 



77 



English Violets, which are very hardy, do well out- 
side. To protect the roots, I cover mine in the fall 
with a heavy mulch of coarse manure and leaves, 




but not with enoug-h to smother or overheat the 
crowns. When the covering is lifted in early spring-, 
I generally find the plants full of buds, which come 
into bloom with the first warm spell. I use these 
Violets for bordering certain beds, and have been 



78 Violets 



greatly pleased with the effect. They are kept 
within bounds by cutting off the runners. The hose 
is turned on them every afternoon when the sun has 
left the bed; manure water, also, is given while 
they are blooming. 

In this extensive family are a number of favorites 
which have long reigned supreme, such as: 

Marie Louise Violets 
Neapolitan Violets 
Russian Violets 

Some of the members are delicately constituted, 
and more liable to disease than their hardier and 
more rugged relatives. 




CHAPTER V 

KOIvIAQE PLANTS 



AchyrantJies 
Alocasia 
AlternantJiera 
Aspidistra 



Begonia 
Browallia 
Caladiiims 
C annas 
Coleus 



DieffenbacJi ia 
Draccena 

Farfnginni Grande 
Mar ant a 




ACHYRANTHES 

HIS makes a good color effect, and does 
very well inside. It is of no especial 
value for window gardening-, but may be 
useful to those who cannot procure more 
expensive plants. A well grown specimen looks 
remarkably bright surrounded by a mass of green, 
or even alone. 

Achyranthes needs watching to keep down the 
Red Spider. It may be treated as suggested for 
Ageratums — that is, given a plunge bath — unless 
5"ou have means of fumigating with tobacco. 

Prepare new plants in August, from your old 
stock, that they may be strong and vigorous for the 
winter; or, if you use the old ones, cut them back, 
to produce a fresh, young head, which will be 
stronger than the old growth. 

They are tender, and must be protected from frost. 

Achyrantheses like a generous soil, and very little 

water in winter. They should be kept in about 



80 



Alocasia 



fifty-five degrees of heat, a sunny window suiting 
them perfectly. Be careful that they do not freeze 
on cold nights. 

Some of these plants are quite beautiful, and, by 
trimming, may be trained to grow in any. desired 
shape. They are readily propagated by cuttings. 



ALOCASIA 

Handsome stove plants, closely allied to Colocasia, 
and requiring treatment similar to that of Caladiums. 

Their beautifully variega- 
ted leaves make them fine 
subjects for decorative 
purposes. 

They like a moist atmos- 
phere; but I have found 
that to a certain extent 
they can be trained to do 
without it. By growing 
them out-of-doors, in a 
shady position, from June 
to September — turning the 
hose on them daily, and 
never allowing them to get 
thoroughly dry — they will become sufficiently hard- 
ened to continue their growth, in some moder- 
ately cool window, without disaster. 

They need a soil of peat, with a little light loam, 
a good quantity of sphagnum, lumps of charcoal and 
plenty of silver sand, all mixed together. 

In planting, keep the bulbs well up in the pot, 
pressing the mixture around to raise them a little in 
the centre of the pot, and fill out all around to the 




Alocasia 81 



edge with sphagnum. This will induce them to 
throw out new rootlets. 

Fill your pots more than half full of bits of broken 
crocks, to insure g-ood drainage, and water liberally 
when the plants are in active growth. Also give 
them manure water once or twice a week. In sum- 
mer do not let a strong sun strike them. During 
the winter they will thrive in a temperature of from 
sixty to seventy-five degrees, but not lower: they 
must not be allowed to suffer from cold. 

Alocasias, with their immense leaves, extending 
in some well grown varieties to a length of from 
twenty to thirty inches, with their beautiful shad- 
ings and markings, are a noble sight, glorious reve- 
lations of the power of the Creator. 

Many people consider them tropical stove plants, 
which will not live outside of a greenhouse. With 
proper care, however, they will do as well as ordi- 
nary Cannas in dwellings. 

All Alocasias are so interesting that one scarcely 
knows which to select for description. 

Alocasia Hacrorhiza Variegata is long-rooted, as its 
name implies, and a strong grower; it has large 
bright green leaves, spotted and marbled with white. 
The footstalks, also, are broadly streaked with 
white. 

Alocasia fletallica has leaves of a magnificent bronze 
color on the face, purple on the back; it is an excel- 
lent variety for decoration. 

Alocasia Sedeni is a hybrid with oval bronzy-green 
leaves, which are purple on the underside, and have 
pure white veins. 

Alocasia Thibautiana, from Borneo, is the hand- 



82 Alternanttiera. 



somest member of the family, with leaves of deep 
olive grayish green, a grayish white midrib, and 
many gray veinlets running out from it. This is 
one of the most expensive varieties. 

Alocasia Zebrina has dark green erect leaves on 
strong footstalks of pale green, striped with bands 
of darker green. This species comes from the 
Philippine Islands. It will grow to a considerable 
size, often measuring more than four feet in height. 

ALTERNANTHERA 

Half hardy plants, valuable for color effect only, 
but in that respect very serviceable. A well grown 
plant looks brilliant when surrounded by green. 
They are similar to Achyranthes in their habits and 
requirements. 

Start young plants in August. Shift from one pot 
to another as they fill with roots, keeping the plants 
all the while pinched, or trimmed, to make them 
strong and form a neat head. 

Let your potting soil for these plants be rich and 
sandy. Give them all the sun and heat possible, but 
do not drench with water, as they are soft-wooded. 
Judge from the soil when to water them. If it be- 
gins to look dry on top, and crumbles in your fingers, 
it is a good sign that they would like a shower. But 
see that water does not stand in the saucer. 

If insects annoy you, give the tops of the plants 
a plunge bath. 

Alternantheras will not have a good color unless 
they have the full benefit of the sun, plenty of light. 

Alternanthera Amabilis Tricolor is a good variety. 
Its leaves are dark green on the edges, with a deep 



Aspidistra. 



83 



rose centre marked with purple veins, and a band 
of orange between centre and margin. This, with 
several other species, came from Brazil. 

Alternanthera Paronychioides is an orange-red, shaded 
with olive. A compact grower. 

Alternanthera Paronychioides Magnifica, is of a much 
brighter color than others of this type. 

Alternanthera Paronychioides flajor, which has bronze 
leaves with deep orange tips, 
is a very effective member of 
the family. 

Alternanthera Paronychioides 
najor Aurea is a bright yellow, 
and holds its color well through- 
out all seasons. 

Alternanthera Versicolor has 

pink, crimson and bronzy-green 
leaves. It is a good compact 
grower, and develops into a 
fine plant; but judicious trim- 
ming is essential, to keep it shapely and make 
it branch out freely. 

ASPIDISTRA 

There are few plants that will stand so much 
neglect, and continue growing cheerfully, as if re- 
ceiving every attention. Nearly hardy and ever- 
green, they brighten many situations where more 
tender plants would perish. Forme they do so well, 
and multiply so rapidly, that I am often at a loss 
how to dispose of them. They thrive in almost any 
garden soil, but do still better in rich loam, leaf soil 
and sand 




ASPIDISTRA. 



84 Begonia 

Being great lovers of water, they must not be 
stinted, though, as with all others, I moderate the 
supply in winter. Not needing much sun, they 
thpive perfectly in shady places, and may be in- 
creased from suckers. 

The following are excellent varieties, and will 
give satisfaction : 

Aspidistra Elatior* from Japan, which grows from 
one to two feet in height. 

Aspidistra Elatior Variegata, with green and white 
striped leaves. 

Aspidistra Lurida is also very effective in outdoor 
gardening. 

BEGONIA 

Of all the lovely plants we have, I think there are 
none more satisfactory than the Begonias, if one 
knows how to take care of them. They should be 
allowed to grow all they will out-of-doors, and b6 
well hardened when taken in. I keep them in pots 
sunken where they get only the morning sun, put- 
ting a mulch of manure on top of the pots, to pre- 
vent drying out from heat. 

Give plenty of water, both overhead and at the 
roots. In the fall, when they are strong and vigor- 
ous, I lift them; wash off the pot; set in a window 
where they do not get too much sun; and give out- 
door air on mild days. They go right on growing, 
but do not want so much water now. If they should 
begin to drop their leaves, stop watering for awhile; 
only do not let them dry up 

The tuberous Begonias may be treated in the same 
manner; unless you prefer to dry off the bulbs, and 



86 Browallia 



put them away in dry sand for another .season. But 
be sure that it is dry, or they will rot. 

From my own experiments, I know that the fol- 
lowing will all thrive in the house: 

Begonia Rubra 

Begonia Alba 

Begonia Vernon 

Begonia Metallica 

Begonia flaculata 

They are gross feeders, and very fond of manure 
water. 

Rex varieties have not proven very satisfactory 
under my care, though I have made numerous at- 
tempts to keep them; but the shrubby species do 
nicely. 

BROWALLIA 

A genus of handsome shrubs, which bloom during 
the winter and spring months, making good pot 
plants for sitting-rooms. 

They need a rich, sandy, porous soil, and quanti- 
ties of weak manure water as soon as flower buds 
appear. 

To make them dwarfed and bushy, they must be 
stopped or pinched back three or four times during 
the summer. They should be taken in before it 
grows cold enough to chill them. 

Syringe daily to prevent the attack of insects. 

These plants are greenhouse annuals ; they must 
not be put outside in spring until the weather is 
settled, possibly not until June. 

The flowers are blue, or white, except in 

Browallia Jamesonii (Jameson's), where they are of 
a peculiar orange. This variety is a synonym of 



Caladiuirns 87 



Streptosolen Jamesonii. It makes a good basket 
plant, if allowed to wander at its own sweet will. 

Browallia Elata, from Peru, is a tall variety, grow- 
ing to about a foot and a half in height; it has deep 
blue flowers. 

Browallia Qrandiflora is a large-flowered species, 
from one to three feet high. 

Browallia Roezli, a very pretty member of the family, 
has light blue, or white flowers, with a yellow tube ; 
it makes a dense bush, from one to two feet high. 

All the above are prolific bloomers, and valuable 
on account of their color, blue being so rare among 
blooming plants. 

CALADIUMS 

Fancy Caladiums, as they are called, are stove 
perennials; yet, under certain conditions, they may 
be kept in the house. Like Alocasias and Colocasias, 
they are cultivated for the marvellous coloring and 
great beauty of their leaves. 

They grow from tubers, and have to be dried off, 
and well rested. In February they may be started 
in small, well-drained pots. These should be filled 
with a compost of good loam, leaf mould, peat, and 
a little thoroughly decomposed manure, in equal 
quantities, with a liberal portion of sharp sand — all 
to be well mixed together, but not broken up too 
finely. 

Put your plants in a warm place, and water spar- 
ingly, just enough to keep them moist. After the 
leaves unfold you can give more water. When your 
pots are full of roots, shift to ones of larger size; and 
give manure water two or three times a week, hav- 
ing first used clear water. 



88 



Caladiuims 



Caladiums need to be shaded, during the middle 
of the day, from the sun's full strength. But for the 
remainder of the time, they should have all the light 
possible: it increases the beauty and richness of their 
foliage. After they have reached a good size, they 
may be moved to a cooler room, and given water 




FANCY LEAVED CALADIUMS 



when absolutely necessary, but not otherwise. You 
must not let cold draughts strike them. 

When the leaves begin to fade and drop off, give 
less and less water, until they are all dead. Then 
stow the pots away where they will not suffer from 
extreme cold. Keep them a little moist, in order 
that the tubers may not dry up ; they are apt to rot 



Carina.^ 89 



if they do. In this manner you can preserve the 
plants until the time comes to start for another sea- 
son's growth. Caladiiims cannot live in a tempera- 
ture lower than fifty- five or sixty degrees Fahren- 
heit. They may be shaken out of the pots, and stored 
in dry sand, if this is more convenient. 

Caladium riaculatum, from South America, is a fine 
variety, prettily spotted with white. 

The following are all beautiful: 

Caladium Chantinii 

Caladium Leopold! 

Caladium Marmoratum 

Caladium Bicolor 

Caladium Verschaffeltii 

There are so many lovely hybrids of this family 
that it is not difficult to make a gratifying selection. 

Caladium Esculentum will be referred to under 
Colocasia, as it is synonymous with Colocasia Escu- 
lenta. 

CANNAS 

The improved varieties of Cannas are much 
liked and widely grown. A new race and far superior 
to their progenitors, excellent for bedding; the 
dwarfer varieties can be grown in pots, and in the 
house, where they will continue blooming most of 
the time. They commence to bloom when quite 
small, and the coloring of some of them is very bril- 
liant. 

They like a rich soil, which can hardly be too rich, 
with quantities of water at all times. Equal parts of 
well rotted manure, loam, and sand to make it porous, 
in from eight to twelve-inch pots, with liberal sup- 
plies of manure water, combined with the warmth 



90 



C a. iT^ n a s 



and light of a sunny window, should produce a 
bountiful return of flowers, and foliage that will 
make a charming tropical effect. Outside, simply 
let them grow in the ground. Dig them up in the 




fall; dry the bulbs thoroughly; pack them away 
where they will neither freeze nor dry up; and divide 
and repot them in the spring. 

Generally speaking, I think the Dwarf varieties are 
more satisfactory, if not the only kind worth growing ; 



ColetAS 91 



although, for the centre of tropical beds, the tall 
Cannas are useful. A disadvantage of the latter is that, 
being so tall, they are easily broken and disfigured 
by strong winds; while the Dwarfs, seldom reaching 
a height of more than two or three feet, are more 
manageable. 

These Dwarfs make fine beds. Planted out during 
the last part of May, or the first of June, and given 
a rich soil, they will bloom until late fall. They 
revel in manure water, and enjoy any quantity of 
fresh water, for which they should never be allowed 
to suffer. They will do well almost anywhere. 

Their colors have been greatly improved of late, 
as well as their size, by hybridization. This is seen in 
varieties such as 

Madame Crozy, crimson, with gold edging. 

Eldorado, yellow. 

Chas. Henderson, deep crimson. 

Hybridizers, however, are persistently working to 
produce still better specimens, and greater diversity 
of color ; so that no one can predict what treasures 
the future may have in store for us, in shades of 
crimson, yellow, pink, and possibly even pure white. 

COLEUS 

These plants will thrive almost anywhere outside, 
though they have a preference for good soil, a light 
sunny situation, and a sufficiency of water; they are 
apt to drop their lower leaves if kept too dry for a 
length of time. 

It is best to take cuttings in August, when they 
will root readily, and grow them for winter use ; they 
will be more vigorous than old plants. Keep them in 



92 



Coletis 



pots of well drained, rich, friable loam ; shift to 
larger pots as the first ones become filled with roots; 
this will make them strong healthy plants, of good 
shape and growth, before they are taken into the 
house. 

They can be trained into any form you desire. By 




pinching the terminal shoot mercilessly, and thus 
forcing it to throw out collaterals, you will bring the 
plant to suit your individual taste. 

Be sure to take Coleuses in before the slightest 
frost touches them, as they are very tender. Give 
them the warmest, sunniest window you have, and 
water very sparingly; they will drop all their leaves 
and gradually die if they get too much water at this 



Dieffenbachiia 93 



time, not being able to take care of it in dull cold 
weather. Should they be near a window, see that 
chilling or frosty winds do not work in around the 
frames. If properly taken care of, they will grow 
all winter, and can be cut up in the spring into slips 
to make fresh plants. 

There are many varieties, all more or less beauti- 
ful, with which most of us are familiar. I shall men- 
tion only two: 

Coleus Verschaffeltii is one of the most effective of 
the crimson-leaved species. 

Golden Bedder is a good mate for it, in clear yellow. 

DIEFFENBACHIA 

Named in honor of Dr. Dieffenbach, a German 
botanist. A genus of magnificent evergreen stove 
perennials. Some of them have beautifully varie- 
gated leaves, irregularly marked with white or yel- 
lowish oblong spots. They have fleshy stems, which 
if broken will exude an acrid juice that is very poi- 
sonous: consequently no part of the plant must ever 
find its way into the mouth. 

They are all handsome, and so numerous that it is 
difficult to choose amongst them ; but I may suggest 
a few: 

Dieffenbachia Baraquiniana(Baraquin's), from Brazil; 
light green with white spots. 

Dieffenbachia Leopold! (Leopold's), deep green; mid- 
rib white, with a whitish band on each side. A very 
handsome variety. 

Two other beauties are: 

Dieffenbachia Regina, and 

Dieffenbachia Rex 



94 Dracaena 



The following are all grand plants: 

Dieffenbachia Nobilis 

Dieffenbachia Splendens 

Dieffenbachia Triumphans 

Dieffenbachia flajestica 

Dieffenbachia Magnifica 

Dieffenbachia Bausei (Bause's), is of a yellowish 
green, blotched with dark green, and thickly spotted 
with white ; it is a garden hybrid. 

Dieffenbachias need the same treatment as Calad- 
iums. They should be kept where the temperature 
will be not lower than sixty degrees at night, and 
much higher during the day. Their leaves must be 
sprayed or sponged off once or twice a day, to supply 
the humidity which they require, and will miss out- 
side of a greenhouse. 

Give them turfy loam, peat, leaf mould, a small 
quantity of well rotted manure, and some good sharp 
sand, all thoroughly mixed together; and perfect 
drainage. They need an abundance of water, but it 
must not stand to sour the soil. Be careful not to 
give too much water before the leaves begin to ex- 
pand; afterwards never allow them to be stinted. 
Also see that they are not exposed to currents of 
cold air. 

When the pots are full of roots, give clear manure 
water once a week. Keep your plants very warm ; 
and make the air humid in some way, if you have to 
place bowls of water amongst them. 

Do not expose Dieffenbachias to too strong a sun ; 
they enjoy a little morning sun, and plenty of light. 

DRACyENA 

This plant is often confused with Cordyline, the 
two genera having become very much mixed to those 



Dracaena 



95 



uninitiated in the mysteries of floriculture. Dra- 
caenae are beautiful for color effect. They form a 
large genus of stove plants; but there are some which 
with proper attention will do well in our dwellings. 
A compost of loam and lumpy peat, in equal quan- 




tities, with a little charcoal, placed in a pot of 
moderate size, will suit them. In summer, when they 
are growing fast out-of-doors, give plent}" of syring- 
ing, and water the roots. But be careful in winter ; 
for if any water lodges in the axils of the leaves, it 
will spoil, if not kill your plants. Wipe dust off with 
a wet sponge; give plenty of light, to bring out the 



06 I^arfiagiunTi Grande 

color of their leaves; and keep them in as moist an 
atmosphere as possible. If the leaves begin to fall, 
withhold water for a while — unless yoii have been 
keeping the plants too dry : in that case it will be a 
sign that they need more. 

A little judgment, combined with experience, if 
you really desire knowledge on the subject, will soon 
teach you the requirements of each individual plant. 
When you lose one through ignorance of its needs, 
and later find out the cause, you must store up the 
information for future use. If you do not, and sim- 
ply let it slip away, you may be in the same predica- 
ment again ; for what is life to one plant may mean 
death to another, as each has its special require- 
ments, and must have them satisfied in order to 
thrive. 

Dracaenae are all pretty; but those with recurved 
leaves are, I think, the best for house culture. There 
are many popular varieties of them originated from 
Cordyline Terminalis. 

FARFUGIUM GRANDE 

A useful little plant, with fleshy stems, and large 
shining leaves spotted with yellow; it comes of a 
genus of hardy herbaceous perennials, classed by 
Bentham and Hooker under Senecio. Another title 
is, Ligularia Ksempferi Aureo Maculata (Kaempfer's 
Gold-Spotted). 

Despite all these names Farfugiums will thrive in 
any good porous loam, but like best a peaty soil. 
While not requiring much sun, they must not be al- 
lowed to suffer for want of water, as they need 
moisture at all times. Should they die down in win- 



M: a rant a 97 



ter, put them away, and they will come out again in 
the spring-. 

Farfugiums are not remarkably beautiful, but have 
a pleasing appearance; and any plant that will thrive 
in the house is desirable. They can be increased by 
division of the roots in either autumn or spring. 

MARANTA 

Named after B. Maranti, a Venetian botanist. 
Several of the species supply us with Arrowroot, 




which is extracted from their tubers. They are fine 
foliage plants, having beautifully marked leaves, and 
are not difficult to grow. Marantas like a more moist 
atmosphere than is usually found in our dwellings ; 
yet with proper attention they will thrive. 

Their first requirement is a rich soil. Leaf mould, 
sand, and turfy loam will furnish this. They need 
an abundance of heat and water when growing, to- 



98 Nlaranta. 



gether with moist air: if the latter is not obtainable, 
they can be taught to do without it. 

Sink them outside in some shady place in summer; 
and shower them daily, giving- copious supplies of 
water. They should make a good growth by autumn, 
forming fine heads, or crowns of leaves. 

Take Marantas in before it is cold enough to chill 
them ; keep them in a warm place ; and do not give 
too much water. Let them be rather dry than too 
wet. Sprinkling or spraying their leaves will help 
them. But if they continue active growth they must 
not be stinted at all. 

Good drainage is an absolute necessity ; for, while 
they require an abundant supply of water, a sour soil, 
or stagnant water, is decidedly injurious. They do 
not enjoy strong sunshine, but on the contrary dis- 
like it very much : therefore they should have a shady 
location where they will get only the early morning 
sun. 

To have the leaves in good condition, there should 
be plenty of moisture in the atmosphere : so, if your 
house is heated with dry hot air, and you have no 
way of counteracting this, your only resource will be 
spraying, or frequent sponging. While, under proper 
conditions, these plants are not subject to insects, 
dry hot air often engenders Red Spider; and, when 
these invisible enemies begin operations, they will 
soon make havoc with your handsomest plants by 
rapidly disfiguring or destroying the leaves. 

Marantas are often confounded with Calathea, also 
a genus of fine foliage plants, to which they are nearly 
allied. 

riaranta Zebrina, Zebra Plant, is generally so cata- 
logued, though in fact it is a Calathea; but to either 



NIaranta 



genus it is a fine addition, being- exceedingly hand- 
some with its velvety light green leaves, barred 
across with bands of rich dark purplish green, while 
the undersides also have a decided purplish hue. 

The following are all good : 

Maranta Bicolor 

riaranta Concinna, a dwarf perennial, 

Maranta Nitens, a handsome species, 

riaranta Sagoriana, another dwarf perennial. 

Among their relatives, the Calatheas, there are 
so many to claim our admiration that it is difficult to 
select; but probably the prize should be awarded to 
these: 

Calathea Princeps 

Calathea Tublspatha 

Calathea Veitchii 



CHAPTER VI 



LILIES 



Agapanthus 
Anthericuvt 
Crijium 



I ma n tophyllu m 

Liliiivi 

Lily of the Valley 




AGAPANTHUS 

gapanthus Umbellatus. These Afri- 
can Lilies are easily cared for. 
They thrive best in strong tnrfy 
loam, leaf mould, well rotted 
manure and river sand. Durine 
summer they can hardly get too 
much water. Give them clear 
manure water when blooming. 
After they have finished flowering, gradually lessen 
the quantity, and let them rest awhile; but as soon 
as they show signs of activity, give them more. 

Do not allow too much pot room, or change them 
too often, as they will not bloom until pot-bound. 
They may be divided in early spring, and every off- 
set will make a new plant; or they may be permitted 
to grow on until they burst their bounds. The 
flowers are a bright blue, forming a large cluster, or 
umbel, at the top of a tall naked scape. This plant 
blooms for many weeks. 

Agapanthus Umbellatus Albidus, a pure white variety 
from the Cape of Good Hope, is very showy. It must 
be carefully dried off during the winter. 



AnthiericuriTL 101 



Agapanthus Umbellatus Flore=pleno has double flow- 
ers; it keeps better than the single types. 

Agapanthus Umbellatus naximus has immense um- 
bels of bright blue flowers ; it is a grand plant when 
well grown. There is an equally large white-flowered 
specimen of this variety, which is very desirable. 

Agapanthus Umbellatus Mooreanus is of a dwarf 
habit, dark blue, and very hardy. 




AGAPANTHUS 



There are other species; but among thos^ here 
mentioned you should find what will please yov^. 

ANTHERICUM 

Synonymous with Phalangium. A numerous genus 
of the order Liliacese. It comes mostly from the 
Cape of Good Hope. The hardy species are largely 
used as ornamental plants, both outside and potted 
in the house, where they do remarkably well. 

Anthericum needs pots of rich soil composed of 



102 CrinvitT^ 



fibrous loam, leaf mould, well decayed manure and 
coarse sand. When growing actively, and until it 
has finished flowering, it must have plenty of water. 
Then give less, but never allow your plants to get 
entirely dry. They easily may be increased by sim- 
ply dividing the roots. 

The following are all good: 
Anthericum Liliago (St. Bernard's Lily), 
Anthericum Uliastrum (vSt. Bruno's Lily), a much 
larger and fragrant variety. 

Anthericum Variegatum, which is half hardy. It 
comes from South Africa. Its proper botanical name 
is Chlorophytum Elatum Variegatum. 

CRINUM 

Crinums, from Krinon^ the Greek name for Lily, 
are a large genus of exceedingly beautiful flowering 
bulbs, closely related to the Amaryllis family. Most 
of the species are nearly evergreen, and continue 
growing without much drying off. They are not ex- 
acting as to soil, but thrive in sandy loam and leaf 
mould, with ample drainage. They should be covered 
to the neck in planting; and the pots should be large 
enough to accommodate their mass of thick, fleshy 
roots. They must be kept clean by frequent syring- 
ing; and be given plenty of water at the roots, with 
doses of manure water, particularly when blooming. 

It will not be necessary to repot these plants every 
season, if a sufficiency of water is given, and a top 
dressing of rich soil in the spring, when they start 
into new growth. While resting in winter they should 
be fully exposed to the sun. They may be planted out- 
side in summer, taken up in the fall, and stored, if you 



Crinuim 103 



do not care to have them grow on through the winter. 

All Crinums are lovely, but perhaps the most mag- 
nificent one is 

Crinum Kirkii, or Crinum Nobile, as it is variously 
termed by different florists. Under proper care the 
bulb attains an enormous size; and from it there 
shoots lip a tall spike, crowned with an umbel of ten 
or fifteen large white fragrant flowers, with a reddish 
purple stripe on the outside of each petal. This 
beautiful variety comes from Zanzibar. 

Crinum Fimbriatum, the Milk and Wine Lily of Nas- 
sau, is also a very good one, and deliciously fragrant. 
Its flowers are white with a claret-colored stripe 
throi^gh the centre of each petal; the foliage is erect 
and sworJ-shaped. 

Crinum Americanum, a native of this country, of 
great merit, has pure white flowers. 

As Crinums grow naturally in wet places, they re- 
quire an abundance of water ; and being evergreen, 
they may be kept growing all through the year. If 
they are in pots, it is best not to move them until 
they are l)ursting their bounds. Do not mix manure 
i 1 your potting soil, but give manure water when the 
plants are growing freely. I plunge mine outside in 
the borders of beds or walks, and water them liber- 
ally every day, giving less and less as autumn ap- 
proaches, to rest them for their winter's work. 

Be sure to take Crinums in before there is any 
frost; and continue to keep them rather dry until 
your house is closed and fires are started. Then put 
them ill a warm location where they will get all the 
sun possible, and begin to water them freely once 
more. At no time must they ever get dry enough to 
make the leaves flag. Do not plant them too deeply, 



104 Imantoplnylliam 

or you may lose 3^our bloom: not more than half oi 
the bulb should be covered, the long- neck not to be 
taken into account. 

Protect Crinums from the sun in summer. 

IMANTOPHYLLUM 

Imantophyllum Miniatum does well in the house in 
properly drained pots of loam, with leaf mould and 
charcoal added. A little bone dust mixed in, bene- 




IMANTOPHYLLUM MINIATUM 



fits them sometimes. I have found that these plants 
never flower until pot-bound, that is, until the pot 
becomes full of roots. When in active growth I give 
mine doses of weak manure water. In summer any 
amount of water may be given to both leaves and 
roots. 

In winter they require much less. Allow them to 
rest awhile; and in January or February they will 
begin to grow, and soon throw up a tall scape having 
a large umbel of lovely shaded orange and yellow 
flowers. It is better to give them a good top dress- 



Lilium 105 



ing in the spring, as they do not like having their 
roots disturbed. 

I cannot conceive of any plant that is less trouble, 
or will give more satisfaction than Imantophyllums. 
They have long narrow leathery leaves, which I have 
never known to be attacked by any insect ; and, if 
kept cool, they hold their bloom a long time. A 
temperature of fifty or sixty degrees Fahrenheit will 
suit them admirably. 

They have fleshy roots, which become so thickly 
matted that it is difficult to separate them. They 
are increased by offsets, or by division of the roots. 
Never allow them to seed, as it weakens them to do 
so ; and keep them in the same pot as long as possible. 
Plunge Imantophyllums in a partially shaded position 
outside in spring, and leave them there until just 
before frost. 

LILIUM 

We are all familiar with Lilies, and have long real- 
ized how beautiful they are either for outdoor culti- 
vation, or to bring inside. Their stately habit, rich 
perfume, and lovely flowers, so noble in the purity of 
their appearance, have won for them many friends, 
and rendered their presence almost indispensable. 
They are generally hardy, and will thrive and multi- 
ply in well drained beds or favorable spots outside if 
given protection in winter. They can be grown in 
pots, and are greatly appreciated, especially about 
Easter, for which season they seem peculiarly appro- 
priate. 

Lilies like a moderately rich soil, with sand enough 
to admit of water passing through it readily. Keep 
them cool until they are about to bloom ; then bring 
them into your sitting-room and install them in a 



106 IviliiJ.m 



light sunny window. Syringe the leaves daily, to 
keep off Aphis; give sufificient water to the roots; 
and you should have an abundance of flowers. See 
that the bulbs are well covered. Liquid manure will 
benefit them during the flowering stage, but do not 
give it before that time. 

When they have finished blooming, put them away 
to rest in the open air, if it is warm enough, and 
withhold water until they begin to grow again. 

Lilium Auratum, Golden-rayed Lily of Japan, is one 
of the most beautiful varieties, and a good summer 
bloomer. 

Lilium Candidum. a very handsome species, does 
best when well established, and not disturbed at the 
roots. It will prosper for years, increasing all the 
while in strength and vigor. 

Lilium Harrisii, Bermuda Easter Lily, is more tender 
and cannot safely be left out-of-doors in winter in 
this latitude. But it will thrive in the house. 

The following are all lovely and excellent varieties : 

Lilium Bulbiferum 

Lilium Longiflorum, White Trumpet Lily, 

Lilium Speciosum 

Lilium Speciosum Albiflorum 

Lilium Roseum 

Lilium Brownii 

Lilium Canadense 

Excepting Harrisii, these are all hardy, and do 
best outside. 

While discussing Lilies we must not forget 

Calla, an exceedingly useful and ornamental plant, 
always ready to respond to the various names by 
which it is called: the real ones, to which it is justly 




LILIUM HARRISII 



108 



Lilium. 



entitled, are RicJiardia Africana^ and Lily of the 
Nile. It is in fact, however, a White Arum, for it 
belongs to that family. It was named after L. C. 
Richard, an eminent French botanist. Richardia 
^thiopica, or Calla ^thiopica, as it is sometimes 
written, is rather a misnomer, as the flowers are pure 
white. 

Despite its names, Calla is an elegant and very 




ARUM SANCTUM 



popular plant. It is not difficult to raise, asking only 
a good rich soil, plenty of water, well drained pots, 
and that the Aphides be kept off. In summer put 
the pots on their sides outdoors, when the roots will 
dry off. Leave them in this position until September, 
allowing the plants no water ; then repot in fresh 
soil, containing well rotted manure and sand, and 



Lily of thie Valley 109 

place considerable sand immediately about the bulbs. 
Now syringe them daily, and give the roots plenty of 
water; but do not let it stagnate. Tepid water is 
best. If kept rather warm, in a light position, but 
with not too much sun, they should bloom nobly 
during most of the winter. 

There is also 

Black Calla, Arum Sanctum, which is unique and 
worthy of place in a collection for its oddity. It 
requires the same treatment as other members of 
the family. 

Then we have 

Qem Calia, a very florescent miniature species, 
growing rapidly without attaining the stately pro- 
portions of its relatives, and almost always in bloom. 
Gem Callas may be plunged in the ground during 
summer, and taken up in the fall. When carried 
into your house, they will continue the greater part 
of the year to throw out their little flowerets, which 
are identical in shape and texture with those of the 
larger varieties. 

All Lilies can be forced ; the ones, however, 
generally used for this purpose are the Calla, Lilium 
Longiflorum, and Harrisii. 

LILY OF THE VALLEY. 

Convallaria flajalis. Order Liliacese. These hardy 
herbaceous perennials make lovely window boxes 
for early spring ; indeed, with but little trouble you 
can have them at any time you wish. 

Plant Lilies of the Valley thickly in shallow boxes 
during the fall, as suggested for Daisies and Pansies; 
cover them lightly with straw, leaves, or salt hay; 
and leave them outside until you want them in the 



110 



Ivily of tine Valley 



house. When you bring these plants in, put them 
away in some perfectly dark and very warm place, 
keeping them moist with warmed water. 

If kept dark and warm enough, they presently will 




*t', ..^i 







^^^?^*< < - 



begin to grow. As soon as they commence to shoot 
up leaves and show flower stalks, they must be 
moved to a window, where they will not get too 
much sun ; and be well supplied with water. 

The secret of success is to keep them very cold 



Lily of tine Valley 111 

until you are ready to use them ; then the change to 
sudden heat forces them into activity. 

The most satisfactory results I have ever seen 
from forcing Convallarias, were obtained by taking 
the bunches of pips without untying, just as they 
come from abroad — the imported ones being best 
for this purpose — laying them on the ground out- 
side in the fall; and simply throwing a little salt 
hay over them as winter advances, to keep the 
crowns from freezing. They were taken in as 
needed; kept in a warm room for a while, to thaw 
out ; then planted in pots or boxes of sand, or sphag- 
num moss. They were now given plenty of heat; 
and, when brought to the light, were never allowed 
to want for water ; shaded from the sun ; and sup- 
plied with sufficient air, but guarded from cold 
draughts. 

In summer some gardeners keep the pips in cold 
storage, taking them out as required; they are thus 
enabled whenever they please to have the Lilies in 
bloom. Florists, by means of cold storage, are in 
these advanced days upsetting a great many of Dame 
Nature's calculations, forcing her from the beaten 
track, and breaking all her established rules. As to 
whether the result is an improvement upon her 
methods, we must leave the decision to those who 
demand a constant change from the old routine. 



CHAPTER VII 



PALMS 



Arecas 


Cycads 


Oreodoxa 


Caryota 


Ficiis 


Pandanus 


Chaniccrops 


Kentias 


PJ IOC nix 


Cocos 


Latania 


Scaforthia 




CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 

HESE suggestions apply to nearly every 
plant that I have succeeded in keeping 
during the winter to brighten our home 
and gladden our liearts; but I gained the 
knowledge only through dire disaster, bitter experi- 
ence, and many doleful failures. I have lost plant 
after plant through mistaken zeal, literally killing 
them with kindness, surfeiting them with care, until 
I discovered that a little judicious neglect did them 
good. 

When all danger of frost is past and the weather 
is settled, after the blossom storm, I have all my 
plants carried out-of-doors; repotted if necessary; 
the foliage examined for insects, and well washed; 
and the pots sunken in the ground up to their rims, 
leaving just enough projecting to take hold of in 
turning them around. I place all Palms in a sheltered 
position, where they will get only the morning sun, 



Cultural Directions 113 



if possible, and will not be whipped or broken by 
strong winds. 

Before sinking them, the ball of earth should be 
removed, and the roots examined in some such 
manner as the following: — Hold the pot in the left 
hand ; place the right hand over the top of pot, the 
fingers passing around or through the stems; gently 
tap the edge of the pot on some harder substance; 
and the ball of earth should readily slip out. If it 
does not come easily, it will be because the earth is 
too dry. This being so, wet it thoroughly ; wait until 
the extra water drains off; then try again. 

If the earth is all, or nearly all consumed, and the 
pot full of roots, it should be at once changed, and 
replaced in a pot of the same size, imless this will not 
hold your plant with the fresh earth. 

My own way is to shake off gently any dry hard 
soil ; try the plant in pots until I find one into which 
it will slip easily; leaving about an inch of space all 
around between the plant and sides of the pot, to fill 
with new earth. The new pot should be well washed. 
Place a piece of broken crock over the hole in the 
bottom, to prevent the roots from going through ; 
put in an inch or two of good fresh soil ; and slip the 
plant in carefully without breaking the roots. Then 
fill up by throwing in a little dirt at a time, shaking 
it down through the plant, by lifting up the pot a 
little way, and dropping it gently down — not so hard 
as to break; continuing thus, and pressing well, and 
firmly with the fingers until it will hold no more ; 
leaving about an inch from the edge of the rim, for 
holding water. Now soak the soil through with 
tepid water — not ice cold, as that chills the roots — 
and set your plant in the shade. It will generally 



114 Cultural Directions 



take care of itself for the rest of the season with but 
little attention. 

I have mine well showered ever)' day near sunset, 
and examine for Scale and Mealy Bug about once a 
week. These enemies, however, seldom attack a 
plant that is in vigorous growth. If they do, wash- 
ing the under sides of leaves with a weak solution of 
whale oil soap, will drive them away. Mealy Bugs 
sometimes collect in joints or crevices, and have to 
be picked out with some blunt bit of w^ood. A hair- 
pin is good for the purpose. 

All Palms do best when restricted as to pot room. 
Their roots should never be cut or broken. When 
it is necessary to repot, care should be exercised in 
taking off the old crock put in for drainage, as it may 
be grown over by the roots. If you cannot get it 
out without mutilation, leave it alone; put the ball 
of roots just as it is into a new pot; and fill in. But 
be sure the ball is in proper condition — that is, wet 
through — or it will not take hold of the fresh earth. 

Do without potting as long as possible, by giving 
top dressings, and nourishing with manure water, 
when the plants are in a healthy state. But do not 
give manure water when they look sickly, as they 
cannot take care of it. That made from cow manure 
mixed with a little soot, is excellent, if you can pro- 
cure it; but horse manure will answer, though never 
quite as well. It is inferior to the other for any 
plant. 

Be very cautious in using soot; if too strong it 
may kill your plants. It is, however, when judi- 
ciously applied, one of the best fertilizers that I have 
ever used. Should you be so fortunate as to have 
wood fires, I would advise you to save every parti- 



Cuiltiaral Directions 115 



cle of the ashes ; and when you have your chimneys 
cleaned, religiously preserve every ounce of the soot. 

The ashes from oak wood are particularly strong 
in potash, and are therefore superior in supplying 
plant life with one of its chief requirements. But 
ashes must be handled with judgment. Two tea- 
spoonfuls worked in, or sprinkled on top of the soil 
in a small-sized pot, will have a very tonic effect; 
and a little more should be allowed to larger pots. 

All Palms should be left out-of-doors as long as 
possible. When the nights begin to grow cold and 
frost threatens, take them up ; cleanse the outside of 
pots; give one final look for bugs; and a good wash- 
ing of the leaves with hose or watering-pot. When 
they have finished dripping, carry them into the 
house, and fill your windows, not letting the leaves 
touch the glass, as, if the sun is strong, they will 
burn and become discolored. They are also apt to 
get frost-bitten on cold nights. 

Once placed, and the house shut up for the winter, 
our real care begins — that is, if one has no moist air, 
only furnace heat and gas. These deadly foes must 
be contended with ; and it is only by eternal vigil- 
ance that we can preserve Palms from their malign 
influence. Cleanliness and mild fresh air are the 
best antidotes. Open a window, or set the plants 
outdoors, when you can, to give the latter; and, as 
to the former, when you have no means of shower- 
ing, a sponge dipped in tepid water, passed gently 
over the leaves on both sides, will take off the dust, 
and leave the pores, which are the openings to their 
lungs, unobstructed for breathing. This they are 
compelled to do freely, as well as you or I, in ordc" 
to live. 



116 Arecas 



Shield them all you can from gas, by lowering the 
light or turning it out when not absolutely needed 
where they are; and be sure that it ;/^z^^r escapes ; 
it poisons them as quickly as it would us. Every 
mild day give Palms air, but never make a draught by 
opening opposite windows or doors. One will do; 
and it will be better if that does not open directly 
upon the plants. 

Do not give too much water, the mistake most 
of us make: they are now resting for a while and 
cannot take care of it. A use of good common 
sense will regulate the quantity. Examine the soil 
in the pot. If it appears to be very dry, soak it until 
wet throiigJi^ but do not let the water stand in the 
saucers, as it will rot the roots. 

Watch for bugs ; and when you use whale oil soap 
one day, rinse it off the next with clear water. I 
always use water with the chill taken off. By fol- 
lowing these directions I feel assured that you will 
succeed, as I have done, in keeping plants in this 
manner for many seasons. 

ARECAS 

These are the most decorative and beautiful Palms 
we have. Of hardy habit, with long gracefully 
curved fronds of glossy green, disposed about a trunk 
of quite a golden hue, they can hold their own with 
any rival for popular favor. They are elegant at all 
times, or in any position, being so beautiful in them- 
selves that it would be almost impossible to place 
them at a disadvantage. 

Areca Lutescens I have found one of the most use- 
ful, and with moderate care, one of the most hardy 
for house purposes. All that it asks in winter is to 



Arecas 



117 



be kept clean, and placed where it will not be chilled, 
yet will receive an abundance of light. Do not give 
too much water; when the growing time begins it 
may be more plentifully supplied. If general direc- 
tions are followed, I cannot see a possibility of not 
succeeding with this plant in any dwelling. 

If you are not the happy possessor of large speci- 
mens, an excellent way to make them appear at their 




ARECA LUTESCENS 



best is to place several small Arecas together in one 
pot, the tallest filling the centre, and the smaller 
ones grouped closely about it. Or you can arrange 
several small pots in a large vase, thus with a little 
ingenuity producing a fine effect. Arecas grow 
quite rapidly; if you care for them properly, you 
will be astonished to see how, in a season or two, 
they will increase in size, development and luxuriant 
beauty, until they become simply grand. 



118 Gary Ota 

CARYOTA 

A small genns of stove Palms, which will live out- 
side in summer and in the house during winter. 
Though not so strong as some of the others I shall 
mention, or able to endure as many hardships, still 
these plants can be used with good effect. 

They are frequently called Fish Tail Palms, and 
are known to many by that name only. If given 
conditions resembling those of their native habitat, 
they will grow to a colossal size. Of this I have 
evidence in a magnificent specimen before me: it is 
forcing the glass out of the top of an immense Palm 
house, which has already been raised three times for 
its accommodation, and that of an enormous Latania 
Borbonica. 

Caryotas like a compost of good rich loam, leaf 
mould, and a small quantity of sand, with perfect 
drainage, and an ample supply of water when in 
vigorous growth. But in the house one must guard 
against watering them too much. 

Gary Ota Urens is the variety most frequently seen . 
in private collections. It comes to us from India, 
and is one of the largest-growing species. 

Caryota Purpuracea is very similar to Urens, ex- 
cepting that it is a more compact grower, and bears 
more leaves. 

Caryota Sobolifera, a beautiful slender-stemmed 
variety from Malacca, is somewhat like Urens in the 
form of its leaves, but is more of a dwarf growth. 
It throws out many suckers, which will make new 
plants; and it is from these generally that the species 
are propagated. 



Clnamaerops — Cocos 119 

CHAM/EROPS 

A very small low-growing genus of the order 
Palmae; quite hardy, and ornamental. They may 
be treated like the rest of the family, and used both 
outside and indoors; but it is essential to keep the 
leaves clean, and not give too much water during the 
winter months. In summer they should be well 
syringed every day, and be placed where strong winds 
cannot break, or whip the leaves. 

In a rich loam, mixed with some leaf mould and 
sand, with good drainage, and a liberal supply of 
water, they do well and grow readily. 

Chamasrops Humilis, a native of Northern Africa, is 
a fine dwarf species, and the one most commonly 
seen. A well grown specimen of this variety is very 
effective for decoration. 

Chamaerops Macrocarpa, a more robust grower, with 
a hardy constitution, is a good plant for general pur- 
poses. This Palm is also a native of Northern Africa. 

cocos 

Cocos Weddeliana, from South America, is also a 
lovely, graceful Palm, standing the hardships of win- 
ter in an ordinary dwelling with remarkable endur- 
ance. It is the most beautiful among the many 
species of this genus, and is much used for table and 
other decoration. It is synonymous with Leopoldinia 
Pulchra, and Glaziova Elegantissima. Be sure that 
you do not kill Weddeliana with water. In summer, 
sunken out-of-doors, it will take a great deal. 

Cocos Nucifera, the Cocoanut Palm, is the kind that 
supplies us with cocoanuts. While a quick-growing, 
elegant species, this variety is much too large for 



120 



Coco^ 



house culture, as the leaves on full-grown specimens 
often attain a length of fifteen or more feet. It would 
be sad to become wedded to a plant, and then have 
to give it up or raise the roof. Nature in the plant 
world frequently astonishes ns, and this might result 
if Cocos Nucifera were left to its own devices. 




COCOS WEDDELIANA 



Cocoses like a compost of about two parts rich 
loam, to one of peat, and one of sand. They should 
have a shaded position, as they cannot stand a hot 
sun. I have the hose turned on ours daily in sum- 
mer; and during winter dip the tops in pails of water, 
to free them from dust, or whatever may have gotten 
tipon them. I also, during the growing season, 
occasionally give manure water, which increases their 
vigor and strengthens them for winter in the house. 



Cvcads 



121 



CYCADS 

These are small Palralike trees, which grow very 
slowly; but every year adds to their beauty and value, 
as the crown of leaves increases in size. Strictly 
speaking, they are not Palms; but they are usually so 
classed by others than scientific botanists. They are 
not difficult to manage, requiring ordinary soil in well 
drained pots, a little sun, and plenty of water in the 
summer when out-of-doors. 

In winter, when in the house, I keep mine about a 
foot from a window, where they get the sun until 
about two o'clock, with 
just enough water to 
keep them from drying 
up. Our Cycads were 
wet possibly once a 
month last winter, and 
came out beautifully in 
the spring; but their 
success under such con- 
ditions depends entirely 
upon the heat of one's 
house. 

Cycas Revoluta is the cycads 

only one I have grown, 

or experimented with. It is the so-called Sago Palm, 
sometimes named Japanese Fern Palm. It is the 
best known and handsomest of the family, with its 
dark green glossy leaves, and is quite hardy. 

There is a singular Cycad which comes from 
Mexico, Dioon Edule, probably the slowest of the 
order, as, after making a growth, it frequently rests 
two or three years before making another. These 
plants are very beautiful, and I have often been 




122 



F^icos 



tempted to try one, but they are too slow to be allowed 
house room. 

FICUS 

Ficus Elastica, the India Rubber Plant, we all know 
well, as it is extensively used both in the house and 

conservatory. It 
stands confine- 
ment in rooms bet- 
ter than any other 
plant I have ever 
grown. There are 
a great many of 
the genus Ficus, 
or the Fig family; 
but they are 
usually stove or 
greenhouse trees, 
or shrubs; and 
are generally 
classed among 
Palms, though of 
another order. I 
recommend but 
this one variety. 
They do well in 
sandy loam with a little leaf soil added; and 
should have quite small pots in comparison with 
the size of the plants. Plenty of syringing when 
convenient, or sponging, will keep the leaves clean; 
and they will take almost any amount of water 
at the roots. In winter, however, I find that they 
are satisfied with less; if they get too much their 
leaves turn a bright yellow, and drop off one by one. 




Kentias 123 

When you see them doing this, stop watering the 
roots for a while, but keep the leaves clean. 

They take comparatively little rest, and if given a 
sunny window will continue growing most of the 
time. Out-of-doors in summer they take care of them- 
selves to a certain extent. 

Ficuses can be trained into fine shape by stopping, 
or pinching out the terminals, letting them grow only 
to the size and form you wish, and not into the 
crooked ungainly objects we sometimes see. If they 
bleed much when pinched, a raw potato, hollowed 
out to admit of slipping over the wound, will stop the 
flow of sap, and can remain until the cut heals. I 
give my plants manure water when growing, and have 
the leaves sponged every two or three weeks with 
lukewarm water in which there is a little common 
soap. 

KENTIAS 

How beautiful they are ! So much so, that some- 
times when one can afford only a single specimen, 
it is difficult to make a choice and decide between 
them. They are a genus of some six handsome stove 
Palms, natives of New Guinea and the Moluccas, and 
named after Lieutenant Colonel Kent. Kentias are 
related to Arecas. 

Kentia Belmoreana (Belmore's), sometimes called 
Curly Palm, will stand considerable neglect without 
resentment. It is decorative, of easy culture, and one 
of the hardiest for general purposes. It is synonymous 
with Howea Belmoreana. 

Kentia Forsteriana (Forster's),or Howea Forsteriana, 
Flat, or Thatch Leaf Palm, is also a fine variety. 



124 Latania 



There are only these two of this species, both of 
them coming from Lord Howe's Island. 

They require the same treatment as that described 
in the general directions; and be sure to keep their 
leaves clean. Give a sufficiency of pot room, with an 
ample supply of water in summer, at the roots and 
overhead, but not so much in winter. They do well 




KENTIA FORSTERIANA 



in good loam, peat and a little fine sand. If troubled 
by Red Spider, or Thrips, wash them well in quite 
soapy water. 

LATANIA 

The Bourbon Palm, a small genus coming from the 
Islands of the Mauritius; they are exceedingly well 
known, and you are more than likely to find them, 
either in a prosperous or half starved condition, 
wherever you go. 



Lat; 



125 



Latania Borbonica, from the Island of Bourbon, is a 
fine member of this famil)^, and used to ill treatment; 
but, like the rest of them, it responds to kind atten- 
tions. It grows quite rapidly when well established, 
attaining great size, and makes a lovely house plant; 
with a little care, the smallest ones soon develop into 




LATANIA 

fine specimens. From this plant, which is synony- 
mous with Livistona Chinensis, of Southern China, we 
obtain Palm leaf fans. 

Mix some sand with the soil to facilitate drainage. 
Latanias like manure water occasionally; and be sure 
to keep them clean at all times If this is not done, 
the Scale Bug will soon cover the leaves, and like a 



126 Oreodoxa — F^andanus 



vampire, suck their life-blood, the sap, until your 
plant dies. 

Latania Aurea, a synonym of Latania Verschaffeltii, 
is a fine variety with stout stems and erect roundish 
deep green leaves, which have golden-colored ribs. 
This species is not so universally cultivated as Bor- 
bonica. 

OREODOXA 

From the Greek words doxa oreos^ glory of a moun- 
tain, referring to the immense height of some of 
them. A small but elegant genus of South Ameri- 
can Palms, which are very fine for rooms. 

They enjoy most a mixture of loam with a little 
peat and sand; and when outside should be sheltered 
from the wind to some extent. There are only a few 
of this species. They are as pretty as Phoenix, and 
require the same culture. 

Oreodoxa Regia is a lovely, graceful, slender-grow- 
ing variety. 

Oreodoxa Sancona is also a handsome species, and 
easily grown. Its leaves are a reddish-bronze w^hen 
young. It is as adaptable as Cocos for room decora- 
tion. 

Oreodoxa Oleracea, Cabbage Palm, is a native of the 
West Indies. It has gracefully arched leaves that 
grow from four to six feet long. 

Oreodoxa Granatensis is a beautiful variety and ex- 
cellent for decoration. 

PANDANUS 

Screw Pine. This is a genus of handsome, easily 
managed house plants. They belong to the order 
Pandaneae, number about eighty species, and are 



Pandantas 127 



mostly natives of the Malayan Archipelago. While 
not Palms, these plants are often catalogued with 
them in collections. 

They succeed best in sandy loam, with some leaf 
soil (such as we get from the woods) intermixed with 



PANDANUS VEITCHII 

sand and charcoal ; and they should have plenty of 
water in summer. In winter, however, I keep them 
almost entirely dry and never allow one drop of 
water to lodge in the axils of the leaves ; if this hap- 
pens they rot in the bud, and some fine morning one 
discovers that the whole head of leaves has fallen off. 
Should they begin to turn yellow, you may know 



128 F'hioerLix 



that they are getting too much water, if you have 
been giving it to them freely or often; or that they 
need some, if they have not been wet for along time. 
My own Pandanuses w^ent through last winter with 
scarcely any. 

Pandanus Veitchii, one of the best, is beautifully 
marked, being dark green bordered with broad bands 
of pure white. This plant is largely used in a young 
state. It throws out numerous offsets, which should 
be detached, and rooted in small pots as soon as they 
are large enough to handle. 

Pandanus Utilis is another excellent variety. 

These two are the ones generally found in collec- 
tions, though the family is such a large one. 

They have a habit of pushing their roots upwards 
until they become very leggy. When they do this, 
and grow unsightly, it is best for an amateur to get 
some good florist to attend to them. There is a 
method of cutting them down. I know how to do it, 
but prefer not to explain, as it might not be fully 
understood, and cause you to lose your plants. 

Pandanuses will grow to a great size, making fine 
specimens that command large prices. 

PHOENIX 

Date Palm. There are about a dozen species of 
this genus, handsome greenhouse Palms with us, 
coming as they do from tropical or subtropical 
countries. In the South of France numbers of them 
are grown in the open air to supply the Paris market, 
which makes a large demand for decorative purposes. 
These plants are very beautiful, and do well in the 
house with the same treatment as that given other 
Palms. 



F*]noenix: 



129 



Phoenix Dactylifera, the common date-bearing Palm 
that grows to a great height in its native lands, is a 
handsome upright species. 

Phoenix Canariensis, from the Canary Islands, is a 
rapid grower, and in every way a desirable plant. 

Phoenix Rupicola is, in my opinion, the handsomest 
of them all. 




PHCENIX RUPICOLA 



Phoenix Sylvestris, the East Indian Wine Palm, or 
Wild Date, is one of the hardiest. 

Phoenix Reclinata, from South America, is a large- 
growing species, with its lovely green leaves beauti- 
fully recurved. I know of nothing more ornamental 
than a well grown specimen. To hold the long roots, 
have deep pots; let them be well drained, and filled 
with rich soil; give the plants partial shade, and 
plenty of water when growing. Keep the leaves 
clean. With these simple requirements satisfied they 
should make a fine showing. 



130 Seaforthiia 

SEAFORTHIA 

Seaforthia Elegans. The Australian Feather Palm, 
that comes to us from Queensland and New South 
Wales, is a tall-growing variety, requiring only that 
its leaves be kept clean; and that it have leaf mould, 
good loam and sand, thorough drainage, and plenty 
of water ; but be careful not to give too much water 
in winter. 

It is a very graceful as well as stately plant, with 
a tall trunk, and thrives remarkably in dwellings. 

Seaforthia is synonymous with Ptychosperma. 

The foregoing group includes all the Palms that I 
consider useful, decorative and manageable in the 
house, and the only ones with which I have been 
successful. There are numerous other varieties, but 
they will prosper only in a greenhouse. Those which 
I have mentioned, however, you will find sufficient, 
and they will amply repay you for the care bestowed 
upon them. 

All the Palms in this list require very much the 
same treatment — to be kept clean, free from bugs, in 
as small pots as possible, and not to be given too 
much water during the winter months. 

About the last of February they will begin to grow. 
Then a mild solution of manure water, given once a 
week, will help them. It should be about the color 
of weak coffee; and can be made by tying the manure 
in a coarse bag or cloth, pouring water over, and let- 
ting it stand for some hours, say over night. Then 
dilute, if too strong, and use. I have it made very 
strong to save time, and thinned as needed. Do not 
let the earth be dry when you apply manure water. 



CHAPTER VIII 



SHRUBS 



Abut Hon 


Azaleas 


Hoya 


AcalypJia 


Dap /me 


Hydrangeas 


Aloysia 


Gardenia 


Jasininum 


At alia 


Grevillea 


Olea 


Ardisia 


Hibiscus 


Oleander 




Oranges 


Roses 




ABUTILON 






HOWY, free-growing shrubs, very pretty 
both outside and in the house. These 
plants are easily grown, and will repay 
your care. They like a soil of equal parts 
of good loam, peat and leaf mould, with some sand. 
Abutilons must have thorough drainage, as they 
need quantities of water when blooming; at the 
same time, also, give them weak manure water. 

Planted out-of-doors in spring, if the buds are 
pinched off as soon as they show, Abutilons can be 
kept from blooming until late fall. Their bloom 
will continue for some time after the plants are 
carried into the house, if the change from outside 
air to a close room is not made too suddenly. In the 
latter case, they will drop the buds and possibly their 



13f>. 



Abutilon 



leaves also. It is well to bring them in before you 
have to start the furnace, as then they gradually will 
get used to the change from the free air outside. 

After their flowering, lessen the water, and let 
them rest, giving just enough to keep them from 
drying up; but as soon as they begin work again, 
keep them well supplied. Young plants that are 
specially prepared for winter bloom, do better than 
old ones. I refer to slips that have been taken from 




ABUTILON 



the parent plant and rooted during summer. They 
strike readily from cuttings of the young wood at 
almost any season; the best time, however, is the 
spring, or September. These young plants should 
bloom surely in winter. 

Your old plants may be put away in some cool 
place, and kept almost dry; they will come out again 
in the spring, stronger and better than ever. Do 
not, because the leaves fall, throw your plants away, 
and think they are gone beyond redemption ; possibly 



Abtatilon 133 



they are only tired. If you let them rest, and stop 
watering for a while, they may soon revive and 
flourish. 

Abutilons may be trained easily. I prefer the tree 
shape, letting the main stem run up as tall as one 
desires, then nipping off the terminal bud. This 
will make the plant seek an outlet for its vigor, in 
some other direction; the result will be a side shoot. 
You may keep cutting or pinching until you get a 
neat, full, round head. Then let the flower buds 
form ; and be sure you do not pinch them off, or you 
will get no flowers. 

I consider it best for this purpose to take new 
plants each summer: so that if anything happens to 
the old stock, one is still provided for. 

Excepting the Aphis, or Green Fly, bugs do not 
trouble Abutilons very much. Water, or soap suds, 
will keep them down. If you make a w^arm lather in 
a tub (the plants will stand it quite hot), wind a cloth 
over the top of pot to keep the dirt from washing or 
falling out, invert the plant and dip the whole of it 
in, moving gently about; or throw the water on with 
your hands; you can wash the insects off. Then 
rinse the plant in clear w^ater, seeing that no bugs 
are left clinging to the dirt. You will thus be rid of 
them, for a while at least. 

There are many varieties of Abutilons; I think 
them all pretty: they are so graceful with their 
crimson, pink, white and golden bells, drooping down 
and peeping out everywhere amidst the clean-cut 
foliage. 

Boule de Neige, a very good tall-growing variety, 
has pure white flowers. 

Golden Bells is a fine yellow, and a prolific bloomer. 



134 Acalyptia 

Santana is also very attractive with its deep red 
flowers. 

There are many others, all more or less good, in- 
cluding some dwarf specimens, quite distinct from 
those I have named. They grow about a foot and a 
half in height. 

ACALYPHA 

Acalyphas are good for effect, being highly colored 
when well grown. Though rather coarse, their bril- 




ACALYPHA 

liant leaves make a fine contrast amidst the green of 
other plants. They are shrubs, and easily cared for. 
Place the pots where they will have the full bene- 
fit of sunlight in summer, and give plenty of water. 
In winter, keep them near the glass of a south win- 
dow to get the sun ; water carefully, or they will drop 
their leaves. If they do this, put them away where 



Aloysia 136 

they will not freeze; they will come out again in the 
spring-. 

These plants grow in almost any ordinary garden 
soil, but enjoy best a rich loam, and weekly supplies 
of manure water during the summer. 

Some of the hybridized varieties are beautifully 
colored, one of the handsomest and most satisfactory 
being 

Acalypha Macrophylla. 

The following also are both desirable: 

Acalypha Musaica, from Polynesia, a bronzy -green, 
variegated with red and orange; 

Acalypha Wilkesiana, or Tricolor. 

ALOYSIA 

Fragrant, or Lemon Verbena; of the order Verbe- 
naceae. Named after Maria Louisa, mother of Fer- 
dinand VII, King of Spain. They are deciduous 
greenhouse shrubs, but by good management may 
be kept growing most of the time. Their odor is 
very grateful to many people, and delightfully re- 
freshing. They should be planted out in May in a 
sunny open situation. When liberally supplied with 
water they will make good growth. 

Lift early in September; cut back both roots and 
tops; repot, in good sandy soil; water well, and set 
in the shade until they recover and show signs of new 
growth. 

Take them in before frost; keep them as cool as 
possible during the winter, and quite dry for a while, 
to rest them. When they begin active growth give 
more water. By pruning the roots they may be kept 
in smaller pots: they will soon throw out fine working 
roots from the cut portions. 



136 Aralia 



Aloysia Citriodora, synonymous with Lippia Citri- 
odora, and Verbena Triphylla, has slender branches 
that maybe trimmed, or trained in a variety of ways. 
I keep mine cut back until they form a good round 
head, which makes them stocky, and prevents a 
straggling appearance. They break in a new place 
every time you pinch or cut off the terminal shoot. 

Their delicate, pale green, lemon-scented leaves, 
blend harmoniously with almost any flower, and 
serve to bring out fresh beauty. 

Should they lose their leaves after coming inside, 
as they will if kept too hot, put them away where 
they will not freeze, with scarcely any water; give 
just a little, occasionally, to keep them from drying 
up. After resting thus awhile they will once more 
commence to throw out leaves, and soon will be 
clothed in beautiful raiment to gladden your senses. 
So they may be kept on from year to year, growing 
stronger, stouter, more beautiful, and, if you have 
trained them well, resembling miniature trees. 

ARALIA 

A term whose meaning is unknown. The genus 
embraces many varieties of greenhouse, hardy, her- 
baceous and shrubby plants. 

Aralias are effective, and give but little trouble. 
With a rich, porous, sandy loam, sunken in some 
shaded, sheltered position, and copiously suppHed 
with water both overhead and at the roots, they will 
make a fine growth before it is time to take them in, 
should you wish them for the house. 

In an ordinary dwelling, in winter, they wdll not 
require much water, if you give them a moderately 
cool situation. 



Ardisia 137 



Their leaves must be kept clean, or the Scale Bug- 
will take possession. 

After resting awhile, they probably, about the last 
of January, will show signs of vigorous growth ; then 
they will need more water, and must not become 
dry. 

There are so niany varieties that it is hard to indi- 
vidualize, but, personally, I prefer 

Sieboldi, which, with its glossy leaves of rich dark 
green, has become quite a pet of mine. 

ARDISIA 

This is a large genus of greenhouse, evergreen 
trees and shrubs, with whose history and peculiarities 
we need not encumber our minds, as I propose to 
recommend only one member of the family, the one 
with which I am most familiar — my favorite. 

Ardisia Crenulata will make a lovely contrast in any 
collection of foliage plants, lighting up beautifully 
with its bright red berries the various greens of 
Palms, Cycads and Ferns. 

Ardisias need well drained pots of peat, loam, 
some sand and about one-fourth of well rotted 
manure; a light situation; and judicious watering. 
When they commence to fruit, manure water given 
once or twice a week, until the berries are colored, 
will help them much ; and they must always be kept 
very cool. A temperature of about forty-five 
degrees, but not lower, will suit them admirably in 
winter; with only this amount of heat, they will be 
less liable to the attacks of a large brown Scale, 
and other pests that are partial to them. 

If grown in a cool atmosphere the berries of one 



138 Azaleas 



crop are very likely to remain until another crop of 
fresh ones is formed. 

Ardisias often grow unshapely after reaching a 
height of about two feet, by getting naked at the 
bottom. This you can remedy, by cutting them 
back to within two or three inches of the pots in 
early spring, letting them become dry at the roots 
before doing so. After the cuts have healed over, 
begin giving water gradually, and they will soon 
break into fresh growth, when you can shape them 
to suit your fancy, by rubbing off badly placed shoots. 

I think you will find them more effective than the 
well known Solanum, commonly called Jerusalem 
Cherry. 

AZALEAS 

A decidedly popular genus of plants, remarkably 
beautiful, consisting of both hardy and greenhouse 
varieties. Comparatively few flower lovers, who are 
not blessed with greenhouses, attempt the culture of 
Azaleas, which is due to an erroneous impression 
that they cannot be managed without glass. 

This is a mistake. They are as easy to handle as 
Roses or Chrysanthemums, if not easier. If you do 
not understand, or take the trouble to learn the 
habits and requirements of your plants, you are apt 
to lose them ; and, as fine specimens are rather ex- 
pensive, you would naturally hesitate before investing 
in many, or, perhaps, even in one. But if, like most 
of us, you admire, and would care to have them, 
there is no earthly reason why you should not, and 
succeed as well as it is possible for any one to do. 

If you have room, six or eight plants will afford 
you much delight, and a succession of bloom for two 
or three months. 



Azaleas 



139 



Ghent Azaleas are the hardy species, and 

Azalea Indica, the Indian or Chinese Azalea, the 

greenhouse variety. 

One of the first essentials is good soil, made up of 

one-half peat, and the other half equal quantities of 

leaf mould, fibrous loam and sand, with tlLoroiigh 

drainage. 




AZALEA INDICA 



They insist upon an abundance of water during 
the growing and blooming seasons, and must never 
be allowed to become dry ; yet great care is neces- 
sary, as an excess of water is as bad as not enough. 

Too much water causes the fine roots, with which 
these plants are provided, to decay. This you can 
prevent by being certain that your drainage is per- 
fect, and that no water can possibly stand in the pots. 



140 Azaleas 

The roots of Azaleas are so small and threadlike, 
and grow in such thick masses about the stalks, that 
water cannot always penetrate them. This you 
must watch out for. Have the soil a little lower 
around the stalks, that the water may ran to the 
centre and soak through there; but be sure it does 
run tJiroiigJi^ and not stand. 

If you have no other means of showering them 
which is necessay to keep off the Thrips and Red 
Spider, a good plan is to set the pot in a large tub, 
t)r bucket, containing enough warm water to barely 
'cover the pot. While the roots are getting well 
saturated you can sprinkle, or shower the tops, to 
wash off these pests, and cleanse your foliage at the 
same time. If you place the bucket in your bath-tub 
you can shower all you wish to; no dirt will get on 
the floor or down the pipes, as the bucket will catch 
and hold any soil that may wash out of the pots ; the 
drip from the leaves may fall into the tub without 
harm. 

There are various ways of managing, to give them 
a good bath and keep them clean. But always place 
the plant in a bucket. If you have no bath-tub, 
wash-tubs in the laundry will do. Should you have 
neither of these, take a common wash-tub, and make 
a warm lather in it with common soap; or, if the 
bugs are very bad, use whale oil soap. 

Tie a cloth over the top of your pot to keep the 
earth from falling out, and, inverting the plant, dip 
it in and wash well. 

This is to be done only before they begin to bloom, 
as during the blooming period it would spoil the 
flowers. If, however, you have kept them clean, 
and growing well up to that time, the bugs will not 



Azaleas 141 



do them any harm, unless the plants are in too warm 
an atmosphere. 

Azaleas can hardly get too much light or air. 
They must be kept very cool to thrive; and you 
should change your pots to ones of larger size as they 
outgrow the old ones. With a little care you can 
grow immense and beautiful plants. The best time 
to repot is just after they have finished blooming, 
and before they have commenced to make new 
growth. 

For the attention they receive now you will be 
repaid a hundred-fold in the coming season, if you 
will endeavor to follow closely the advice or instruc- 
tions, as you please, which I am going to give. 

Turn your plants out of the pots; break off all the 
old crock, or whatever you have used for drainage, 
and all the old dirt that will come by jarring, shak- 
ing or otherwise. Be careful not to break the roots, 
from the bottom of the ball of roots and soil. 

This should considerably diminish the size, but 
should leave you still a rather compact hard mass. 

Have well washed pots, exactly one size larger than 
those from which you have just taken the plant. 

Let your soil be ready close at hand. Put in 
broken crock as before for drainage ; then take each 
plant, and with a small stick, blunt and round (or 
the tine of a hay fork, if you have one), an old carv- 
ing fork, or anything of that kind, make holes all 
about and through your mass of roots, by gently in- 
serting the instrument and pressing the roots apart, 
so that water may get in, and the roots may get out, 
to come in contact with the fresh earth. 

Now place your plant in the centre of the pot, and 
fill in. Each handful, or trowelful you throw in, 



142 Azaleas 



should be packed down firmly with the handle of a 
trowel (a good thing- to use), or with the fingers. 
The whole future existence of your plant depends, in a 
great measure, upon these holes, and this firm packing. 

Continue thus until the pot is filled up to within 
half an inch of the rim, being sure to leave the roots 
near the stem above the surface of the ground. If 
they are covered, and water should sink in and settle 
around them, they would rot, and so destroy the 
plant before you discovered what was wrong. 

The reason for being so particular about the firm- 
ness and solidity of the soil, is, that your mass of 
roots is much harder and more solid than this light 
new earth; consequently, if you throw the latter 
loosely into your pots, when you come to water 
them, the water will run quickly through this porous, 
soft soil, gliding over the hard roots as it would over 
a duck's back, without having time to penetrate. 
The result will be that the plant will die from lack of 
moisture. If, however, you have done your work 
properly, the water will go down slowly, and sinking 
through all the holes you have made, will penetrate 
to the very centre ; the whole mass of earth will thus 
become equally saturated, and softened; so that the 
roots will spread out, and take hold of the new soil. 

If you have potted directly after blooming ceased^ 
but not otherwise, take a pair of clipping shears, and 
trim your plant all over to a nice round shape. The 
flowers are borne on the new wood. They at once will 
begin to make this new wood, on which buds will 
form. Accordingly, if you trim later than the time 
I speak of, you will cut off all your buds^ and the 
floivers you are looking forward to for next year. 

After you finish the necessary trimming, water 



Azaleas 



143 



well, both overhead and at the roots. vSet the plants 
in some close place where the sun or wind will not 
strike them, and dry them out before they are well 
established. Syringe freely for a few days, until 
they look as if they were growing again. Then, if 
the season is advanced enough to allay fears of frost, 




they may be plunged in some garden border. Here 
let them remain without further trouble, except a 
daily soaking or showering of water, until the very 
last possible moment in autumn, which means until 
you are sure there will be a frost. This must not catch 
them, as it will blast the buds, and all your fond hopes. 
You must remember to turn the pots occasionally, 
or your plants will grow all crooked. 



144 Azaleas 

If you will mulch the pots with old manure, as I 
have suggested for other plants, you will be surprised 
at the effect. 

There are two objections to this treatment: one is 
that the manure, if too fresh and strong, will burn 
your plants; the other that the manure is apt to fill 
the pots with angle worms. Some say that it is 
sure to do so; but I am simply giving my own ex- 
perience, and stating facts that I have personally 
gathered from experiment. 

In refutation of these other people I would say that 
the worms will get in anyway, being like the poor, 
always with us; and, as the maniire, if in proper 
condition, does so much to benefit the plants, I put 
it on mine, and take my chances of ousting the 
worms. 

There are various ways of getting rid of these 
pests. For instance, quite hot water, poured on the 
earth, will not hurt the plants, but will cause the 
worms to crawl rapidly to the surface, where they 
can be picked off and destroyed. But even if they 
remain, when you take the pots out of ground 
for the winter, you will have to keep your plant in 
some room, or cellar, whose temperature will be just 
above freezing. Here, while the Azaleas will do 
finely, it very probably will be too much for the 
worms, which require warmer c|uarters. 

I would particularly warn you— no matter wliat you 
see or hear recommended for their destruction — never 
use lime water. It is excellent with some other 
flowers, but must not be used on Azaleas: they will 
not do well in soil that has any lime at all in it. 
When the plants are blooming, do not allow them 
ever to stand in the sun, as it withers the flowers. 



Dapline 145 

At this time give them weak manure water about 
once in seven days. 

When you bring- your plants into the house, do not 
neglect watering; and, on mild days, give them all 
the outdoor air possible. 

They stand considerable cold; indeed the cooler 
they are kept without being frosted or frozen, the 
longer you can postpone their blooming, and the 
better the flowers will be when you do bring them 
into the heat. Even then you should try not to have 
your rooms too hot, the bloom will thus hold for a 
much greater time. 

We had large specimens, a perfect mass of lovely 
flowers, in some ot our living-rooms this season. 
They scented the house with their fragrance, and 
delighted the eye for an unheard of length of time. 
Yet a friend, to whom some of the same plants, pre- 
pared in the same manner, were sent, complained 
that they began to drop their flowers within twenty- 
four hours after entering the house. 

I investigated, and soon found out the secret. 

In the first place, there was a slight leakage of gas 
in the room where they were; then, they were never 
given any fresh air, which might have counteracted 
this deadly miasma; and the little dab of moisture, 
that my friend called watering, was worse than 
none. These combined causes were too much for 
the lovely Azaleas; they succumbed in about three 
days, coming back to us, looking most forlorn, with 
all their beauty departed. 

DAPHNE 

The Greek name of the Bay Tree, Laurus Nobilis. 
It is a genus of very ornamental evergreen or de- 



146 Gardenia 



ciduous shrubs. Some of them make excellent 
house plants, as they are not difficult to care for; 
moreover, they do not grow very tall, which is a 
desideratum with those of us who are limited as to 
space. 

Daphne Odora is an exceedingly pretty evergreen, 
greenhouse shrub, which fact need not alarm one, 
as the plant may be readily accustomed to a change 
of residence, and will do as well in the house as an 
Orange, Lemon, or other hard-wooded shrub. It is 
an old plant ; yet for some unaccountable reason is 
but seldom seen. I am, however, assured that were 
it generally known it would be greatly appreciated. 
It has thick, dark green leaves, and throws out 
clusters of the most delightfully fragrant flowers, 
which alone should make it a favorite. 

These plants require to be kept very cool ; a tem- 
perature as low as fifty-five degrees will start them 
growing, and they should not be any warmer, unless 
you wish them to bloom. Every year after flowering 
they should be potted, with equal proportions of 
good loam and peat, and perfect drainage. Be very 
careful about watering them in winter, as they will 
need very little water when not blooming. 

They grow so slowly that five or six-inch pots will 
be large enough for good-sized specimens. 

If you do not care for them in the house, they can 
be put away in a cellar; and set out in the spring. 
They must be kept clean like other shrubs. 

GARDENIA 

Cape Jasmine. A genus of considerable size con- 
taining a number of greenhouse evergreen trees or 
shrubs, all more or less handsome. Named after 



Oardenia 147 



Doctor Alexander Garden, of Charleston, South 
Carolina. Most of us are familiar with 

Gardenia Florida, and know what a beautiful speci- 
men of the family it is. These plants are not hard 
to raise if you can give them plenty of heat; keep 
them free from bugs; and, when growing, allow 
them quantities of water. They should also be 
syringed daily, morning and night, if possible. 
They like a rough compost of about two-thirds peat, 
one of loam, and some charcoal. 

Gardenias are readily propagated by taking healthy 
slips five or six inches long, stripping off all the 
lower leaves, and planting them in a box of very 
sandy soil. Strong well ripened cuttings, with heel 
if possible, should be selected, and covered up to the 
second or third joint. Keep them moist all the 
while; and place over the box a pane of glass. 
August is a good time to do this. 

It is well to have new plants coming on; they do 
better than very old ones, and can be grown for suc- 
cession, thus prolonging the blooming period. 

In Texas and Mexico, for some unaccountable rea- 
son that I have never fathomed, they mix coffee grounds 
with the soil in which they plant Cape Jasmines; and 
water them with coffee water made from the grounds 
left over. They also put coffee grounds as a mulch 
and fertilizer on their Oleanders. I have never dis- 
covered what benefit there was in this treatment, but 
only know that their plants seem to thrive under it. 

If the leaves of Gardenias turn yellow, or begin to 
fall, mix powdered sulphur in the soil. About half 
an ounce to a five or six-inch pot will be sufficient. 
It has a wonderful effect upon them. 

Watch eternally for insects. 



148 Grevillea — Hibiscus 



GREVILLEA 

Exceedingly graceful plants, most of them hand- 
some greenhouse trees or shrubs, that belong to a 
family of which considerably over a hundred mem- 
bers have been described. Out of this large con- 
nection I shall recommend only one, which from ex- 
periment I know will do well. Wiih the rest of the 
family, though they may be equally meritorious, I 
personally have had no practical experience, and 
therefore cannot say whether they would thrive in 
the ordinary living-room or not. 

Grevillea Robusta, a delicately lovely variety of 
easy culture, is my favorite. If these plants are 
potted in rich soil, with some sharp sand mixed in ; 
plunged in a shaded position; given liquid manure 
occasionally; and watered freely overhead and at the 
roots every day ; they will make a fine growth before 
it is time to take them in. 

Keep them moderately cool in the house, as they 
dry like Ferns in too hot an atmosphere. Give them 
fresh air when possible ; and a moderate amount of 
water, dipping the top whenever convenient into a 
pail or tub of water to refresh and cleanse the 
foliage, and they will keep beautifully all through 
the winter. By lessening the supply of water, you 
allow them to get time to rest before their spring 
work commences. If you succeed with one I do not 
think you will regret the effort. 

HIBISCUS 

The ancient Greek name for Marsh Mallow. It in- 
cludesin its number about one hundred and fifty spe- 
cies, comprising stove, greenhouse, and hardy shrubs 



Hibiscus 



149 



and hcrljs coming" niostl}" from tropical places. They 
are variable in color, with dark, rich glossy leaves; 
and usually have very large, brilliant and showy 
flowers. 

Hibicuses like a compost of peat, and rich, fibry 
loam, not too fine, in equal parts; with the addition 
of some sand or charcoal to make it porous. They 
must have perfect drainage, for, if water stagnates 
at the roots, they will drop their leaves. They enjoy 
the sun; yet its afternoon beams are too strong for 
them. Water them regularly, and give plenty on 
the leaves. Weak manure water at the roots is 
good when they are blooming. 

These plants do well in the 
ground outside in summer. If 
they are kept in pots, they can 
be transferred to your warm- 
est spot in the house, and will 
continue to flourish for some 
time. If they drop their 
leaves, set them away to rest. 
In winter keep the soil moist ^ 
not wet; and watch out for 
insects. 

They can be stored where hibiscus 

they will not freeze or en- 
tirely dry up, and, with a little cutting back in 
the spring, they will come out as good as ever, 
if not better, being stronger at the roots. vSomc 
species are perfectly hardy, and can be left 
out altogether, growing larger with each suc- 
ceeding year ; but they are not so fine, in my 
opinion, as the tender varieties, being of a coarser 
type. 




150 Ploya 

The following- are all good, and make very attract- 
ive plants: 

Hibiscus Schizopetalus 
Hibiscus Coccineus 
Hibiscus Splendens 
Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis 
Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis Cooper! 

HOYA 

Wax Plant. A large family comprising- about 
fifty species of scandent or decumbent shrubs. They 
are all ornamental stove plants, being* natives of 
tropical and subtropical countries, such as Australia 
and the Malayan Archipelago. The leaves are thick 
and fleshy, the flowers waxlike. 

Hoya Carnosa, the one most commonly known, bears 
lovely pinkish -white flowers in large pendulous 
umbels on short stems. I am quite familiar with 
this plant, having grown it very successfully. It 
likes a rough peaty soil with perfect drainage, fresh 
air, and not a great deal of shade. Hoya Carnosa 
should be rested in winter by giving it less water, 
and keeping it moderately cool. It is a climber, and 
can be trained over a trellis, or does well in a basket. 

Do not cut off the flower stalks, as the next year's 
flowers are produced on them and the new wood. 

Among those described there must be others 
equally satisfactory of which I have only knowledge 
gathered from others, such as: 

Hoya Bella, from India, a shrubby dwarf species, 
which grows about a foot and a half high, and has 
white flowers with crimson centres; 



Hydrangeas 151 

Hoya Paxtoni, that greatly resembles it in growth 
and appearance, except that it has lighter-colored 
leaves and pure white flowers with pink centres. 

The family, however, is too numerous for me to 
attempt their description in these pages. 

HYDRANGEAS 

A much larger genus than is generally supposed, 
though a very small one when compared with other 
families that number hundreds. There are over 
thirt)^ of the species, greenhouse and hardy, decidu- 
ous and evergreen, shrubs and trees, coming from 
Asia, Java, the Himalayan Mountains and other 
places. They are easily cultivated and very orna- 
mental for window decoration, as we all know. 

Hydrangeas do W'Cll outside in summer either 
potted or in the ground ; and some of them are suffi- 
ciently hardy to be left out all through the year. 
The varieties having abortive or sterile flowers, are 
the most extensively grown, being the most orna- 
mental on account of their enlarged calices. They 
require very rich soil, and an abundance of water ; 
in fact, it would be difficult to give them too much 
water while growing, and flowering, as they are 
naturally an aquatic genus ; but, like all other plants, 
they need good drainage. And the roots must not 
be crowded. 

One can raise new plants every year, they are so 
readily propagated: but I prefer the older speci- 
mens, as they give larger heads of bloom, and in- 
crease in beauty all the while. 

There are many ways of caring for Hydrangeas. 
I shall endeavor to explain some of them as lucidly 



152 Hydrangeas 

as possible, leaving you to adopt the one which ap- 
pears most feasible. 

If your plant or plants have been outside all sum- 
mer, either in pots or in the ground, where they did 
not get too much sun, and had all the water they 
wanted; and you wish them to continue growing in 
your windows during the winter; pot them in Sep- 
tember, if they are in the ground ; water them well, 
and set them in the shade to recover. If they are in 
pots already, simply bring them into the house before 
frost touches them; keep them moderately warm; 
supply them with water; and they will go on growing. 

Should they begin to drop their leaves, set them 
away in the coldest place you have that is frost- 
proof, and let them rest for a while — perhaps six 
weeks, or two months — then bring them into the 
heat; give them a moderate supply of water; and 
you will soon see the leaf buds swelling. In a short 
time they should be in full foliage, and before long 
should throw up flower buds: they are no great 
idlers, and are quite willing to work during the 
greater part of the year. 

If you desire them only in summer, and do not 
wish to bother with them in the house, you can keep 
them from season to season with very little trouble. 
Put them in a cellar, as I said before, in the fall; and 
let them remain there until they show such unmis- 
takable signs of growth that they must be brought 
to the light. This must then be done, or they will 
grow weak and spindling. 

If therjs is no place in the house, but plenty of 
ground outside, have a pit dug, where there is good 
drainage, and no possible danger of water settling or 
standing. Take your plants out of whatever they 



154 Hydrangeas 

are in; lay them down slantwise in this trench or pit 
which you have ready, with the heads up; and cover 
them with dirt, taking care not to break or destroy 
the tops in any way. After putting a couple of feet 
of soil on, leaving just the tips of the branches out 
for air, cover the whole thing over with straw, salt 
hay, leaves, or something of that kind, to keep the 
frost out. But do not use manure, as that will make 
them too warm, and they will begin to grow. 

If you have ever seen a farmer trench up celery 
for the winter, you will know exactly what I mean, 
for it is done just as you must do with your Hydran- 
geas. You must understand that if any water settles 
amongst them, they will be destroyed; but if rightly 
prepared they will come out in the spring in fine con- 
dition. 

As soon as the weather admits of uncovering, take 
them out; cut the old roots back with a sharp knife 
or shears, straight across the bottom of the ball, that 
it may go into a smaller pot or tub. Moreover, this 
cutting makes them throw out fresh young roots, 
which have more vigor and strength to sustain the 
tops. After cutting, if your plants occupy more 
space than you like, they may be again reduced into 
still smaller ones, by simply dividing the roots. 

When you have them small enough to suit you, 
pot them in fresh rich soil; water them moderately; 
and, if there is no danger of frost, you may leave 
them outside. The embyro buds, which formed the 
previous summer, and have been lying dormant all 
through the winter, will soon begin to swell; and in 
a very little while will reclothe your plants in all their 
pristine beauty. 

Should you want any of them in your house before 



Hydrangeas 



155 



spring, you can take one or more as you need them, 
treat exactly as I have described, and bring- them 
into the heat where they will soon develop ; only be 
careful to cover up well those you leave in the 
trench. 

If they have rested — say during November, De- 
cember and January — they will be quite willing and 
ready to begin business again in February. 

From the various methods here suggested, I think 
that, if you are a lover of flowers, you should be 
able to succeed with and preserve these beautiful 
plants; and, if multiplying faster than you desire 
they become too numerous, you can always present 
them to a neighbor with a little lecture upon how to 
take care of them. 

Hydrangea Hortensis, the common garden species, 
and most of its varieties, are apt to have sterile 
flowers ; and, therefore, on account of their enlarged 
bloom, they are in greatest demand. They are 
nearly all hardy, and can be planted outside and kept 
there throughout the year, if given a little protection 
in winter. 

A good way is to take both heads out of a barrel, 
and place it firmly over your plant just before hard, 
or black frost, as the farmers call it. Fill up the 
barrel with leaves, salt hay, or anything of the kind, 
to keep out frost; but do not make the plants too 
warm. Bank earth outside against the bottom of 
the barrel to keep it from blowing over; and they 
will be all right. This is for the hardy ones. The 
other directions were for tender species, like Otaksa. 

Hydrangea Hortensis Japonica is the blue variety, 
which, like many others, is intensified in color by the 
character of the soil in which it is erown. In some 



156 Hydrangeas 

soils it is very pale, going back to almost pure 
white, while again in others it is a deep blue. This 
blue can be made deeper by the use of various chemi- 
cals, dissolved in the water you use on the roots. 
A small quantity of iron mixed in the soil is said to 
have the desired effect. For this I am not an author- 
ity, never having tried it myself, but no doubt it is a 
fact. 

Hydrangea Hortensis Otaksa is the lovely pink vari- 
ety which is so much used. Some say that these 
plants are hardy, while others declare that they are 
tender. In any event, I think it best to be on the 
safe side, and therefore never trust mine out unless 
I am sure there will be no frost or danger of their 
freezing. 

Thomas Hogg is a beautiful pure white species that 
I have found perfectly hardy, having a large bush 
which has been out in the ground for several years. 

Hydrangea Paniculata Grandiflora is a thoroughly 
hardy beautiful shrub, which can be grown only out- 
of-doors. It becomes a very large bush, five or six 
feet high, covered from August until frost with 
dense panicles of pure white flowers that change to 
a reddish pink as the season advances. If the flowers 
are cut just before they turn, they will keep in the 
house in vases, and look quite fresh nearly all winter. 

Hydrangea Quercifolia (Oak-leaved) is a very pretty 
variety, with white flowers also, but tender, being 
only half hardy. 

There are other kinds, with the treatment of wnich 
I am not familiar, such as: 

Hydrangea Scandens, a climbing species, 

Hydrangea Petiolaris 



Jasminiim 157 

All of the genus want quantities of water, and 
very rich soil; they are greatly benefited by manure 
water when blooming. Also top-dress or fork in old 
manure in your soil. 

JASMINUM 

On account of their lovely flowers, and the deli- 
cious perfume given out by most of them, Jasmi- 
nums are popular plants and well known. They grow 
luxuriantly and are hardy all over the South ; but in 
the North I know of only one varitey, Nudiflorum, 
that will stand the winter out-of-doors; and this I 
have always heavily mulched with leaves and manure 
to prevent freezing. Jasminums are a large genus, 
and many of them make desirable house plants, 
staying out all summer, and being brought in before 
frost. Most of them are twiners, and can be trained 
into any desired shape; others are shrubby. 

Jasminutn Gracillimum, a small-growing stove plant 
with large white flowers, is a good winter-flowering 
species, thriving in pot or hanging basket in a warm 
room. 

Jasminutn Nudiflorum is a hardy, rapid climber, 
with yellow flowers; it, also, does well in the house. 

Jasmlnum Revolutum, a greenhouse variety, bright 
yellow and very fragrant, is a hardy evergreen climb- 
ing shrub. 

Jasminum Floridum, from Japan and China, is a 
hardy ornamental shrub with yellow flowers. 

Jasminum Fruticans is said to be a hardy evergreen 
shrub. I have never tried it. 

Jasminum Grandiflorum, of which I am especially 
fond, is a greenhouse bush with white flowers. Its 
bloom is larger than that of the rest of the species. 



158 Olea 

They will all do well in a good compost, and with 
not too much water in winter; but you must keep 
them clean. Sprinkling or dipping does them good. 

OLEA 

Olea Fragrans is a handsome shrub, filling the 
house with its fragrance when in bloom. It is easy 
to cultivate, and you will prize it more and more 
each year. It grows slowly like most hard-wooded 
plants. The foliage is thick and glossy. 

Plunge Olea Fragrans where it will get the full 
benefit of the summer sun. Syringe and water it 
freely; give it a well drained rich loam, with occa- 
sional doses of manure water, and it will surprise 
you with its beauty. In the house, water this plant 
very moderately during November, December and 
January. If its leaves begin to turn yellow, and 
drop off one by one, simply let it alone, by withhold- 
ing water while it rests. In a little while it will perk 
up, as we human beings do after a good rest; sud- 
denly it will begin to grow again ; and soon your whole 
house will be flooded with the most delicious odor. 
At all times you must keep the leaves clean; use as 
small a pot as possible ; and never cease to watch out 
for its mortal foe, the invincible Scale. 

Olea was the old Latin name for the Olive. The 
members of the family, natives of various tropical 
countries, are quite numerous. Olea Fragrans is 
a synonym of Osmanthus Fragrans; you will fre- 
quently find it classified under both names, Olea and 
Osmanthus. It is exceedingly beautiful, and nearly 
hardy. I have never grown a plant that has given 
less trouble and more pleasure. 



Oleander 159 



OLEANDER 

Nerium Oleander. A good plant when well grown. 
Oleanders must be freely exposed to sun and air 
during the spring and summer when they are making 
their growth, as the flowers that come later are pro- 
duced only on well ripened shoots. After flowering, 
withhold water for a while to allow them to rest ; 
then cut them back that they may make new growth 
before winter. When in bloom, they cannot get too 
much water; and they revel in a very rich soil, about 
equal portions of loam and well rotted manure. They 
give some trouble in the house on account of being 
subject to several insect pests, particularly Red 
Spider, which you cannot see with the naked eye. 
Mealy Bug and Scale. The only remedies are fre- 
quent sponging, and, if the despoilers are very bad, 
whale oil soap. Or you can put the plants away 
where they will not freeze, keep them dry and allow 
them to rest. 

Neriums, or Oleanders, come in red, pink, yellow 
and white. 

Many people think of an Oleander as somehow 
connected with a German beer saloon. But if they 
could see them, as I have, trained like small trees 
with a large head literally covered with a lovely 
mass of bloom, they would soon change their opinion 
of the plant. To fully realize their beauty one 
should see them in the South, where they are used 
for shade trees, as we do Maples, to line the side- 
walks. They are easily increased. Cuttings from 
matured new wood, will readily root in earth, or in 
bottles of water hung in the sun; they can be potted 
afterwards. 



ir«0 Oranges 

ORANGES 

Otaheite Orange. These beautiful dwarfs are quite 
hardy, growing on with little care from year to year, a 
constant source of delight. They want a good loam, 
mixed with well rotted manure and sand, or crushed 
charcoal, to make it porous, that it may drain read- 
ily. Pots should not be too large ; and be sure that 
the drainage is good; but never let them get entirely 
dry at the roots. During the three winter months 
they will want rest, and will not require so much 
water. About February they will begin to grow 
again, and will need plenty of water, with occasional 
doses of liquid manure. At all times watch for bugs, 
these plants being greatly troubled with wScale, 
Mealy Bug and Red Spider. But keep the leaves 
clean, and you will get rid of the pests. 

In the spring, sink them in a warm place where 
they will get the full benefit of the sun. Mulch the 
pot well with old manure; and let them be syringed, 
and thoroughly soaked with w^ater every day, when 
the sun is down, but never when it is shining on 
them. I have one, about two feet high, that for sev- 
eral months was a mass of flowers and green fruit, 
having begun to bloom in the latter part of last Feb- 
ruary. It stayed out all summer ; was taken in in the 
fall; and has ripened its fruit during the winter, bear- 
ing as many as twenty-four lovely little golden balls 
at this time. It will have blossoms, green fruit, and 
ripe fruit on together; and while the fruit is of poor 
flavor, the whole plant is beautiful to look at, and 
exceedingly decorative. 

As w^as said in regard to Pandanus, should its leaves 
turn yellow and begin to fall, you may know that it 
is getting too vmcJi^ or not enough water; or that it 



Oranges 



161 



is infested by one, or all of its enemies. Do not 
change pots nntil the plant is absolutely pot-bound; 
and that condition can be deferred by dig-ginof out 
some of the old soil carefully, so as not to disturb the 
roots, and filling up with fresh rich loam. 





M 


^a^^$^^^^K^^^^3i 


w 


OT^HElM 


of^jfe 



If you will char a few bones, crush them and mix 
with the soil, your plants will greatly appreciate the 
attention, and repay you with increased florescence 
that will fill your house with fragrance. A judicious 
cutting or pinching of the points, will make the heads 
thicken and keep the plants in good shape; but do 



1^2 Oranges 

this before they begin to bloom. If, however, no 
training is attempted and a free growth allowed, they 
will have a better chance to develop their natural 
habits. 

As pot plants they leave nothing to be desired; 
they are, moreover, growing in favor as a table deco- 
ration, for which they appear to be well suited, on 
account of their beauty when covered with bloom, or 
ripened fruit, and of their dwarf habit. Mine were 
only about five inches high when I received them, 
and even then were in bloom; so there is no long 
tedious waiting for them to reach maturity and give 
us pleasure. Another good thing about them is that 
the fruit remains on the plant for months after 
ripening. 

There are other Oranges which are said to be more 
desirable, of which I have had as yet no 'personal ex- 
perience ; but I intend to try them this coming sea- 
son. They are pronounced exquisite in flavor, and 
very prolific. 

Satsuma, some florists claim, is the best Orange for 
pot culture. It produces delicious fruit even when 
quite small; and is of very dwarf habit, occupying 
but little space. Its fruiting capacity is said to be 
perfectly wonderful. 

Citrus Japonica, or Kumquat, is another pretty 
Japanese Orange. The fruit is very small and is eaten 
without peeling. The rind is aromatic, the pulp acid. 
Being a dwarf growth, with glossy leaves and quan- 
tities of flowers and fruit, it is excellent for room 
decoration. It should be kept rather dry in winter. 

These two with Otaheite ought to fill your house 
the whole year with the delig-htful odor of Orange 



Oranges 163 

blossoms, of which one is apt never to tire. Then, 
if taken care of, they can be handed down as heir- 
looms, for Oranges live to be very old. It is declared 
that in Cordova there are Orange trees six or seven 
hundred years of age, and still alive. 

Besides the Orange tree, there are other fruits, 
which, if you are fortunate in your care of them, can 
be grown in pots, or tubs — for in time they outgrow 
pots of ordinary size — notably the Lemon and Fig. 

The Japanese, with their wonderful art of stunting 
nature — which I hope to discover some day — had on 
exhibition in San Francisco some lovely miniature 
Apple and Cherry trees in full bloom. You can 
imagine how interesting and beautiful either would 
look as the central ornament of a dinner table. 

I do not know why our florists have never tried this 
dwarfing; but I have not met with one who had any 
idea of how it was accomplished, until recently when 
I was discussing the subject with an intelligent man. 
He informed me that he was assured it was done by 
"root pruning and keeping them pot-bound." He 
said that he had frequently potted and grown Peaches 
which he had kept quite small by simply turning 
them out without disturbing or breaking the ball of 
earth, slicing this with some sharp instrument right 
across the bottom, as one would a loaf of bread ; and 
then repotting. They would soon throw out new 
fibrous roots from the cuts on the old root, and go on 
growing, thriving and bearing fruit. It must be vei y 
interesting; and now, having this small idea to work 
on, I think I shall begin to experiment with some 
fruit like the Peach or Cherry, as young trees can be 
bought cheaply, and if I do not succeed it will be no 
great loss. 



164 Roses 



ROSES 

It is not a matter of surprise that the Rose should 
be termed the Queen of flowers. Through past ages, 
even to the remote days of the gods, it has reigned 
triumphant, and though the earth teems with innu- 
merable, varied, and beautiful bloom that excites the 
admiration, yet all yield the palm to the Rose, and 
none dispute her sway. 

Roses hold a prominent place in the world from a 
commercial point of view, and from their adaptability 
for all decorative purposes. In floral exhibits they 
generally take the lead; while for cut flowers they 
are unequaled. Their floriferous habit makes them 
respond generously to even mediocre cultivation, but 
when properly cared for they astonish us with the 
lavishness and gorgeousness of their bloom. In the 
sunny South, Roses run riot during the greater part 
of the year; in fact, I have seen them blooming out- 
side at Christmas. There we have them to perfec- 
tion and in profusion with but little labor; but here 
in the North it is a different story. Only certain 
varieties thrive outside, and even tliey are better for 
protection. 

The Hybrid Perpetuals, an important branch of 
this enormous genus or order, are the kind planted 
out-of-doors. They are supposed to be perfectly 
hardy, and as a rule are so ; but I find that a mulch- 
ing, one foot or more thick, of leaves, or manure, or 
both, extending a couple of feet around the roots, 
put on in the fall, and forked in carefully — not so as 
to injure the roots — in the spring, does them a world 
of good. They emerge from the rigors of winter 
much stronger-looking, coming out of their long 
sleep with a brightness that seems to be almost smil- 



Roses 



165 



ing tip at one in thankfulness for keeping them so 
warm and comfortable, during the long, cold days 
that have flown. 

There are various opinions in regard to the advisa- 
bility of attempting to grow Roses of any kind in a 
dwelling-house. Some assert most 
emphatically that it is impossible. 
Others again declare that there is 
nothing easier, and that their effort 
was crowned with unparalleled 
success. 

Amidst such a mass of 
conflicting evidence, I 
know of but one 
way of arriving 
at a defi- 
nite con- ,,:>\\Vni 
elusion; 
and that 
is to make 
the at- 
tempt 

one's self before 
agreeing with either side. 

There are a great many 
reasons why Roses may not be grown 
in the house; and yet I have repeat- 
edly seen them flourishing under 
what most people would call very adverse cir- 
cumstances. The principal difficulties one has 
to contend with are insects, induced by the warm, 
dry atmosphere; and an insufficiency of air. They 
need air, yet it must never be allowed to blow 
upon, and chill them, as that will cause mildew 




166 Roses 

To avoid this be sure never to let currents of cold 
air strike them. 

The following method of treating Roses should 
bring positive results in the v^ay of bloom; but it 
can be carried out only with Hybrid Perpetuals: — 
Have them in pots of rich soil; sink to the rim in the 
ground during the summer season ; and cover the pots 
well in the fall, just before frost, with leaves and 
manure, putting the manure on top of the leaves to 
prevent them from blowing away, and also to keep 
the plants warm without burning or scalding them, 
as it would do if it came in direct contact with the 
stems. Let this mulch be quite heavy to prevent the 
ground from freezing about them, as that would 
crack your pots. 

Should you have a cold frame, or pit, this would 
be the place for them; but wherever they are, the 
air must have free access. 

Either of the above methods, the cold frame or 
leaf and manure covering, will keep the Roses 
dormant until you are ready for them. As soon as 
you see signs of the leaf buds swelling, or sooner if 
you w^ant any of the plants, bring them inside to a 
warm atmosphere; and they should presently come 
into full leaf and flower. When they are blooming 
do not keep them too warm ; and give moderately 
strong manure water once a week. 

Guard against bugs. Sulpho-Tobacco soap is 
recommended for destroying the Aphides that may 
infest them ; but I have never used it. Syringe 
with clear water as often as possible. That keeps 
the pests down. 

Several important points are yet to be mentioned. 

If you wish to force your Roses, it is better to have 



looses 



167 



them on their own roots than grafted on Manetti, 
or Briar stock. Pot them in a rich compost with 
considerable well rotted manure in it, cow manure 
if possible; and be sure to prune them closely down 
to six or eight eyes, first in the early spring, taking 
out all the weakly or crooked shoots to give room 




and air to the strong ones ; then again cut them 
sharply back after they have flowered in June; 
cover them as suggested, in the fall; and take into 
heat one or more at a time, as you wish. 

The short pruning is necessary to prevent the 
tops from getting too large for their limited quarters. 
Such pruning will give you more bloom, as the 



168 Roses 



flowers come on the new wood, and each individual 
Rose will be larger if there are not too many shoots 
to be supported and nourished by the small supply 
of earth. 

When your plants are well established there is no 
need of repotting each year. If they are not allowed 
to become pot-botmd and have healthy roots, they 
may get along with a rich soil worked in as a top- 
dressing, and by being given liqnid manure when 
blooming; for Roses are quite ravenous, and like 
very rich food. 

If you can bring them into about fifty degrees of 
heat at first, and gradually increase it to about sixty- 
five, with plenty of air on all fine or mild days, they 
should soon come into bloom. Keep them clean, and 
syringe them daily where convenient, or possible, 
until the flowers appear; then they will want the 
coolest position in the house with an ample supply 
of air; but let no cold draught blow upon them. 

When they have finished blooming, they may be 
put outside again to go through the same process 
for another year, being kept watered and kept grow- 
ing to mature the wood for the next season. 

This treatment will not do for Tea Roses; they 
are tender and will not live outside except in mid- 
summer. If you have a pit or frame you can keep 
them nicely, and bring them into heat when needed. 
This should not be done unnecessarily. I have seen 
them kept in a cool dark cellar with good results. 

To grow Roses out-of-doors is another matter. 
The Hybrids need a good sunny location on well 
drained ground, preferring a rather heavy loam, one 
clayey rather than sandy; and, as I have said before, 
they do better with protection in winter. 



Roses 



169 



Some varieties of Teas, or monthly bloomers, will 
thrive outside in smnmer. If, however, they get 
the entire strength of the sun all day, they are apt 
to become bleached out and to look somewhat like a 
faded blonde. But 
they are so lovely, 
and well worth a lit- 
tle extra care, that, 
if you have no shaded 
spot, you should im- 
provise one to keep 
the midday sun from 
them. You may thus 
have bloom nearly 
every month. 

Take these Roses 
up in the fall. If not 
in pots, pack them 
closely in boxes of 
earth, and put them 
away in some cool 
dark place where 
they will not freeze. 

In the early spring 
they will be ready 
again for work. 

There are a good 
many things to guard 
against in the culti- 
vation of Roses. Out- 
of-doors they may be readily cared for and pro- 
tected; but inside, the liability of insect attack 
is a nuisance. If I were to mention only a 
few of their foes, or the ills to which, like 




170 Roses 



poor humanity, they are heirs, you might be so 
alarmed that yoti would never attempt the growing 
of a single bush. But, while the name of tliese 
troubles is legion, you will probably never come in 
contact with any, excepting those of which I have 
already given warning: 3^ou may, therefore, make 
your venture without hesitation, as with a little pre- 
caution and some perseverance you should undoubt- 
edly succeed. 

The genus Rose is almost innumerable, and is 
being constantly added to by the raising of new vari- 
eties from seed, or by hybridizing; and to this last 
method we are indebted for many beautiful and 
greatly improved species. 

The hybridization of Perpetuals with Teas, and 
other members of the genus, has given us such fine 
Roses as: 

La France American Beauty 

Duchess of Albany Meteor 

riadame Caroline Testout Dinsmore 

And many others. 

These are all strong growers, hardy, free bloomers, 
with beautiful coloring; and they are very fragrant. 

The Teas I should not advise you to try. 

Among Perpetuals the list is almost endless, and 
it is difficult to select, but I will mention a few that 
I think simply perfect : 

General Jacqueminot Baroness Rothschild 

Ulrich Brunner Anna de Diesbach 

Mrs. John Laing Paul Neyron 

riagna Charta John Hopper 

Prince Camille de Rohan Boule de Neige (^Baii of 5now) 



CHAPTER IX 

VINES, CREEPERS AND BASKET 
PLANTS 



Clematis 

Ivy 

Lysimachia 



Manettia 
Miniuliis 
Othonna 



Solaniun 
Tradescantia 
Vinca 




CLEMATIS 

HIS is a beautiful vine for outdoor decora- 
tion; and indoors the conservatory sorts 
can be potted and grown in a temperature 
of from forty to fifty degrees. Their cul- 
ture is the same as that of the hardy ones. They 
like a rich loamy soil, with a good share of manure, 
and enjoy liquid manure also; this helps them when 
flowering to produce more numerous and richer 
bloom. 

A pretty way to grow them outside, is to firmly 
insert three tall stakes, triangularly, in good rich 
ground, fastening the tops securely together with 
wire, for the plants to run on; then put one or two 
of the vines at the foot of each stake. It is well to 
use contrasting colors. They will soon climb up, 
with a little assistance at first in the way of tying, to 



show them how they should 



Keep the soil rich 



172 



Clematis 



by mulching with old manure; water them freely; 
and you will presently rejoice over the beautiful 
results obtained. 

There are many other ingenious methods of grow- 
ing vines; but I must not deprive you of the joy of 
discovery, and shall leave you to invent some for 
yourself. 

The common name for Clematis is Virgin's Bower. 




CLEMATIS 



Clematis Lanuginosa is said to be the best for run- 
ning on trelHses or verandas; if well fed it will 
rapidly cover a large space, and be weighted down 
with quantities of bloom. This type does not re- 
quire much cutting back; only the dead wood should 
be cut out. Any more severe trimming tends to 
weaken the plant by stopping its growth, and gives 



J vy 173 

you fewer flowers. Its flowers are formed on the 
new wood made each season. 

Clematis Jackmanni, a fine variety, has a thickly 
massed bloom which continues for quite a while. It 
was produced by the successful efforts at hybridiza- 
tion of Mr. George Jackmann, of Woking-, in Surrey, 
England. Many other hybridizers have supplied us 
with a large number of beautiful specimens. 

The following are all good and will give satis- 
faction : 

Duchess of Edinburgh, a fine large double white, 
Henryi, a quick grower. 

Clematis Coccinea (scarlet), a slender graceful species, 
Clematis Fortunei, a fragrant white, 
Clematis Vitalba 
Clematis Viticella 

There are also non-climbing bushy specimens, 
among which we find 

Clematis Davideana, a pretty blue. 

IVY 

Hedera was the old Latin name, used by Ovid, 
Pliny, Virgil and Horace, for our well known Ivy. 
It is one of the most useful of vines or climbing 
shrubs for covering unsightly places. It will stand 
considerable ill usage, but is better pleased with a 
favorable position and some attention. 

Ivy does best in a very rich soil; and given an 
abundance of water it will grow rapidly. It can be 
grown in well drained pots, and trained on a small cir- 
cular or flat trellis in the house, where it does re- 
markably well, if guarded from Scale Bug. While 
it is perfectly hardy outside, I nevertheless always 



174 Ivysimactiia 

cover the roots at least a foot deep with leaves and 
manure in the fall before the ground freezes; and 
the vine comes out beautifully in the spring. 

Hedera Helix Canariensis. Irish Ivy, known in nur- 
series as Hedera Helix Arborescens, is the best for 
walls, and under trees. It is grown everywhere, 
both indoors and outside. If kept clean by frequent 
washing of the leaves, well watered, and if the pots 
are given good drainage, it will surprise you with its 
rapid growth. 

German Ivy, also known as Parlor Ivy, is a lighter 
green, smaller-leaved variety, free, vigorous, and 
fine for baskets. 

English Ivy, the well known favorite, can be used 
for many purposes, its rich dark green foliage look- 
ing handsome anywhere. This vine may be em- 
ployed with good effect for table decoration in win- 
ter when flowers are scarce, and there are few places 
where you will not find it useful. 

LYSIMACHIA 

Lysimachia Nummularia, Loosestrife, Moneywort, or 
Creeping Charlie as it is generally termed, was ap- 
preciated even by the Greeks, being known to them 
under the name of LusimacJiion. It belongs to an 
extensive genus, all of the easiest culture, liking 
moisture, and readily increased by division. 

This is a handsome plant for baskets; it soon covers 
the bottom from view if left to itself, but will make 
a dense mat in a short time if you keep pinching off 
the terminal shoots. It is excellent for shady spots 
where nothing else will thrive, and if given quantities 
of water it will rapidly spread over the ground under 



Nlanettia 175 



trees where grass will not grow. The flowers are 
inconspicuous but pretty, being a bright yellow; they 
look exceedingly well with other plants. 

The following Lysimachias are all hardy peren- 
nials: 

Lysimachia Atropurpurea, from Southern Europe, 
synonymous with Lubinia Atropurpurea, is an erect 
species with very dark purple flowers in drooping 
racemes. 

Then we have the following, which are all erect 
plants from two to three feet high: 

Lysimachia Ciliata, light yellow 

Lysimacliia Clethroides, white 

Lysimacliia Lanceolata, yellow 

Lysimacliia Vulgaris, common Yellow Loosestrife. 

Among them all my preference is for Nummularia, 
and I think you will find it the most useful and adapt- 
able of the family for a variety of purposes and 
places.- 

MANETTIA 

If you like a pretty vine that can be trained in any 
way to suit your fancy, get a Manettia. The climbers 
included under this name come mostly from sub- 
tropical Australia, and the warm portions of our own 
country. They are of easy culture, very graceful, 
and lovely when covered with hundreds of their 
brilliant little blossoms, especially so on a gloomy 
winter day. There are about thirty of the species, 
most of them ornamental. Some are evergreen, 
others herbaceous. The flowers are white, blue, or 
red and yellow, funnel-shaped tubes with hairy throats 
on axillary peduncles. 



176 N'lii-iiolus 



These plants like a compost of equal parts of loam, 
sand, and peat. 

Manettia Micans, from Pern, is a handsome strong 
grower, and one of the best; but I have never seen 
it offered by any florist. It is covered with a pro- 
fusion of rich orange flowers in early winter. 

Manettia Bicolor is a bright scarlet at the lower part 
of the tube, shading into yellow towards the apex; it 
blooms about March. 

Manettia Cordifolia is a useful variety with scarlet 
flowers, blooming through the winter and spring. 

I keep Manettia in pots with wire trellises or mini- 
ature pillars attached, sinking the pots outside in 
some shaded position where the vines will not get 
the full strength of the sun, giving occasional doses 
of manure water, syringing freely every afternoon, 
trimming them into shape if they extend beyond 
their cjuarters, and training as I wish them to grow. 

In the fall they are a lovely sight with their delicate 
masses of foliage and flowers. They are now ready 
to be carried within, where, if sprinkled daily and not 
kept in too dry a heat they will go on growing — that 
is, the evergreen species will. The herbaceous ones 
may die down, and have to be put away for another 
season where they will not freeze, to come out again 
stronger than ever in the spring. 

They can be increased by cuttings, which will root 
readily during summer. They are very clean vines. 
I do not know of any insect that is partial to them, 



my 



vines never haviuir been troubled. 



is 



MIMULUS 
Mimulus Moschatus — from minio, an ape or actor, 
and the Low Latin tnoschus, musk — is another lovely 



NlimtaltJis 177 



basket plant. It is a little creeping half hardy peren- 
nial, to which I am very partial, being particularly 
fond of its delightful fragrance, and its soft, wooly, 
cool-looking foliage. This is the common Musk 
Plant. It is not at all difficult to grow, and is propa- 
gated by division of the roots or by cuttings. 

Mimulus Moschatus likes a good soil, moderately 
rich, with considerable water, and partial shade. It 
looks equally well in pots, or baskets. Like Lysi- 
machia, it also has a small yellow bloom that soon 
covers the entire plant. It belongs to a genus of 
some forty members, but this is perhaps the only one 
which you will need for the house. 

There is a double-tiowering variety of this species 
that is very fine. 

Mimulus Moschatus Harrisonii is one of the stronger 
growers, and larger-flowered than other sorts of 
Mimulus Moschatus, but is seldom offered by 
florists. 

Mimulus Cardinalis, with red flowers, and growing 
from one to three feet high, is a hardy perennial 
found over a large part of the United States and 
Mexico. 

Mimulus Qlutinosus, with buff or salmon-colored 
bloom, is an erect, handsome greenhouse shrub, which 
flowers during nearly the whole year. 

Mimulus Lewisii, rose-colored and erect, is hardy 
and herbaceous. 

Mimulus Luteus, yellow, commonly called Monkey 
Flower, is a half hardy annual. 

Mimulus Luteus Cupreus is a pretty species, from 
which many beautiful hybrids have originated. 

Mimulus Repens, having comparatively large lilac 
colored flowers, with yellow-spotted throats, is a 



178 Otlnon-na— Solanum. 



dwarf greenhouse or half hardy perennial from 
Australia. 

OTHONNA 

Ragwort. This is a quite numerous genus of nearly 
hardy greenhouse shrubs or herbs, with inconspicu- 
ous yellow flower heads; it is of the easiest cultivation, 
thriving in almost any kind of well drained porous 
soil. 

Othonna Crassifolia is a very pretty trailer for a bas- 
ket or vase, doing well outside in summer, and in the 
house in winter. When it becomes too long it may 
be cut back freely, as it soon forms new growth ; and 
these cuttings root readily to make new plants. 

SOLANUM 

Nightshade. Nearly nine hundred of this immense 
genus have been described, and a special chapter 
might well be devoted to them. I shall not, however, 
frighten you by presenting all the enormous family, 
but shall confine myself to the most interesting and 
useful members. To begin, I must not slight 

Solanum Tuberosum. This, if not particularly orna- 
mental, is the most useful member of the group, be- 
ing our indispensable Potato ; but I shall not enter 
upon its merits, with which most of us are familiar, 
as the present article is not on farming, though I 
could tell you how to grow it successfully, if neces- 
sary. 

I wish to advocate the claims of several more 
beautiful members of the family: 

Solanum Jasininoides is a pretty, hardy climber from 
South America It is a profuse bloomer with bluish- 
white Jasmine-like flowers. 



Solan.\_Ai~t:i 



179 



Solanum Seaforthianum bears in lavish profusion 
large hanging clusters of lilac-blue flowers. This 
lovely variety comes from the West Indies; it has 
ftne-cut foliage, and star-shaped flowers of delicate 
blue, with golden stamens; the bloom is followed by 
bright red berries which remain on the plant for 




-VSSP' 



weeks. It is a dainty summer climber, and takes its 
last name from the discoverer, Seaforth. 

Both of these will do well in the house if given a 
cool position, all the air possible, and if the foliage is 
frequently sprinkled. Grown in pots outside in simi- 
mer and trained on light wire trellises, then, when 
brought in in the fall, placed near some window, thc}^ 
make an attractive appearance. They should be cut 
back sharply in the spring, and any straggling growth 
should be kept within bounds by the pruning-shears 
at all times. 



180 Solarium 



Solanum Pseudo-Capsicum, Jerusalem Cherry, is one 
with which many of us are acquainted. The mem- 
bers of this group are handsome shrubs, and good 
house plants if properly cared for. When hanging 
full of their pretty red berries, they make an effective 
contrast with the green of other plants. They were 
especial favorites with some of our grandmothers, 
who appeared to understand the wants of these Sola- 
nums and to know how to succeed with them. I 
have vivid recollections of large well shaped plants 
literally covered with brilliant scarlet or yellow balls, 
which I was allowed by their proud possessors to 
gaze at with eager eyes, but never to touch. With 
change of locality and maturing years I have grad- 
ually lost sight of them, meeting only a chance speci- 
men here and there. Their decline in favor is due, 
possibly, to the dry furnace heat we now employ, 
making it more difficult to cultivate them in our 
dwellings. Yet they can be made to thrive in our 
houses by simply keeping them cool, and giving fre- 
quent showerings overhead to moisten and cleanse the 
leaves. A cool window, where they get only the 
morning sun, will be best for them; and if a little of 
the outside air creeps in around the sash so much the 
better. 

Solanums succeed in any rich loamy soil. When 
headed back in the spring, and trimmed into a neat 
round shape, they will throw out new wood, and 
plenty of bloom, to change later on into brilliant 
berries, which will make your bushes resemble mini- 
ature Cherry trees. These may be sunken outside in 
a shaded position during the summer, when they 
make fine growth. Occasional doses of manure water 
are beneficial at this time. Turn your pots fre- 



Tradescantia 181 



quently to keep the plants from being drawn by the 
sun. Also watch and see that they do not become 
pot-bound. Water them freely every day, both over- 
head and at the roots, as they must not dry out. 

In winter keep them clean ; and water them care- 
fully, lessening the supply to give them time to rest, 
yet still not letting them get dry, which would cause 
them to drop both berries and leaves. If kept cool 
enough, they will frequently retain the berries from 
one season until the next crop is coming on. 

There are other edible Solanums besides the 
Potato, such as : 

Solanum Melongena, our Egg Plant, or the French 

Aubergine. 

Lycopersicum Esculentum, the widely grown and 
extensively used Tomato, the Love Apple of our 
fathers, is an honorable member of this order Sola- 
nacese. 

Some people may not appreciate Solanums on 
account of the slightly unpleasant odor of their 
leaves. I admit that this might be an objection 
were a large number of the plants massed together; 
but the odor is not to be detected unless the leaves 
are bruised, and only hypersensitive olfactories could 
be affected by one or two specimens. At all events, 
if you can successfully grow them you will soon be- 
come their champion, and laud the pleasing effect of 
their brightness among your more sombre greens. 

TRADESCANTIA 

This plant was named after John Tradescant, gar- 
dener to King Charles I. of England. The common 
name is Spiderwort. It is a genus of more than 



182 Vine a 

thirty greenhouse, or hardy, perennial herbs, indig- 
enous to North and South America. They are 
exceedingly easy plants to grow, succeeding in any 
good soil if kept sufficiently moist; and cuttings from 
them will root readily at almost any time. 

Wandering Jew is the only name by which many 
people know several of the species of creeping 
Tradescantias. These varieties are commonly used 
in hanging baskets and in vases, which they quickly 
convert into masses of green, if the vines are kept 
pinched at the points, and are given an ample supply 
of water. They are moisture-loving, and will grow 
even in vessels of water. 

Tradescantia Discolor, an upright-growing species 
with beautifully marked, lanceolate leaves, often 
quite purplish beneath, on short, stiff, erect stems, is 
an exceedingly pretty plant, differing in many ways 
from the familiar Wandering Jew. It is a stove 
perennial, but like the common variety does well in 
the house. While of easy culture, it likes a rich, 
moist soil. It is readily increased from cuttings. 

VINCA 

Periwinkle. Called Myrtle by most people. This 
is a genus of very pretty erect or trailing plants, 
some being hardy, while others are stove or green- 
house varieties. Hardy Vincas are good trailing 
plants for many purposes, growing in almost any 
soil, and when established spreading rapidly. They 
are readily increased by division of the roots. 

Vinca Rosea, and Vinca Alba, which are sometimes 
called Madagascar Periwinkle, are among the best 
of the erect specimens, and are handsome plants 



Vine a 183 

when fully developed. If the points are pinched out 
on young plants that are sufficiently started or es- 
tablished, they will become bushy, and will have 
greater blooming surface, as they flower on the new 
shoots. 

Rosea and Alba are greenhouse plants, and must 
be taken in before frost. They grow only about a 
foot or two in height, and have tough stems. A 
good loam mixed with a little well-rotted manure 
suits them; and they should be carefully watered in 
winter. These plants bloom for a long time, and 
look lovely with their bright rose-colored or white 
flowers among the more sombre greens, but for some 
reason they seem to be but little known. 

Vinca Major, and Vinca Minor, the latter of variegated 
form, are in general use for many purposes, such as 
vases, hanging baskets, carpeting under trees, or for 
shady places where grass will not thrive, and to a 
great extent in cemetery decoration. 



CHAPTER X 



MISCELLANEOUS 



Araucaria 

Colocasia 

Cyperus 



NepentJics 
Pancratiums 
Philodendron 
Zamia 



Saiiseviera 
Saxifraga 
Selaginellas 




ARAUCARIA 

ROM Araucanos^ the name it bears in 
Chili. It is a genus of lovely ever- 
green trees, of a symmetrical habit, 
and very effective for the house while 
it remains small enough to be manage- 
able. This will be for a long time as Araucarias 
are slow growers. 

These plants do well in fibrous loam mixed with 
leaf mould and sand. A very moderate amount of 
water is necessary during winter while they are in 
the house. They should be kept cool ; much heat 
will dry up the foliage. Sink them outside in sum- 
mer, and water well both roots and tops, when the 
weather is dry. 

Some of the family grow to great heights: 

Araucaria Balansse, of New Caledonia, reaches a 
hundred and sixty feet in its native climate; 



Araucaria 185 

Araucaria Cookii (Cook's) attains a height of two 
hundred feet, an altitude which would be rather 
mrgainly in a sitting-room. 




ARAUCARIA 

The latter, Cookii, with the following, are beauti- 
ful species, easily managed, and very satisfactory : 

Araucaria Excelsa Glauca, ) ^^ r .^ ^ ^ i T^• 
. ^ . _ . [ Norfolk Island Pmes. 
Araucaria Excelsa Robusta, ) 

They grow in popularity every year as they become 
better known, and in my opinion need only an intro- 
duction to be appreciated. 



186 Colocasia 



COLOCASIA 

This is a small genus of herbaceous plants, which 
have perennial tuberous or creeping roots, or rhizo- 
mas, as they are botanically termed. A rhizoma, or 
rhizome, is a creeping stem, branch, or root-stock 
partly covered by the soil. While the tops die down, 
the tubers remain with you indefinitely, if taken 
care of. 

They are grand-looking plants with their enormous, 
finely marked leaves ; some of them are excellent for 
tropical gardening outside, and others as specimens 
in the house. Their culture is identical with that of 
Caladiums, belonging as they do to the same order, 
Aroideae. 

Colocasia Esculenta, sometimes called Elephant's 
Ear, is a well-known member of this family; it is 
easily grown outside, but not very desirable for 
window gardening. It should be planted out during 
the last part of May, or early in June, in a well 
drained position, and in light rich soil. Keep it sup- 
plied with sufficient water, and occasionally give 
liquid manure. At the first appearance of frost, cut 
off near the ground all the leaves but the middle 
one. In a few days lift the plant, and expose it to 
the air to dry; then put it away in some frost-proof 
room without dampness, perhaps in some dry cellar, 
until spring. 

There are a number of beautiful Colocasias; they 
all need careful handling. In order to insure success 
with them you must bear in mind one thing: that 
they cannot be changed suddenly from the moist 
atmosphere of a stove house to the dry heat of a 
dwelling without danger of their entire loss, or at all 
events a loss of their leaves. They must be 



Oyperias 



187 



" hardened off," as florists say, by a gradual transi- 
tion, first to a cool house, and then to your dwelling*. 
If, when the weather is settled in June, you give 
them a shady outside position, sheltered from strong 
winds ; and supply quantities of water to both leaves 
and roots; they will be prepared for going inside in 
September, before the days become chilly. They 
should then retain their health and beauty. But if, 
when you have done all this, they should lose their 
foliage, store them in a frost-proof place until spring; 
and carefully water them as gradually they show 
signs of life, until they are in full leaf once more. 



CYPERUS 

Cyperus Alternifolius. A fine member of a genus 
of nearly seven hundred rush, or grass-like perennial 
herbs, and the one most univer- 
sally grown, on account of its 
graceful habit and easiness of 
culture. It throws up numer- 
ous, dark green, erect stems, 
crowned with long narrow 
leaves, arranged in an umbellate 
manner. It makes a lovely win- 
dow plant, grown in pots of 
good loam, sand, and a little 
peat; it needs quantities of 
water, being aquatic in its cyperus 

nature. 

These plants are readily increased by division of 
the roots ; they are quite hardy. Their flowers are 
inconspicuous. They do well in shady positions, 
and respond vigorously to a treatment of weak 
manure water when in active growth; it is well, 




188 Nepenthies 

however, during- the dull winter days to allow them 
a little rest, and not to keep up a forced activity 
with stimulants. Being naturally faithful workers, 
they require but little urging. 

The particular species here mentioned g-row from 
one foot to two and a half feet high. They came 
originally from Australia. Most florists of the 
present day class them among Palms, not that they 
belong to that family, but for convenience, as they 
are commonly grown in conjunction with Palms for 
decoration, and are termed by many the Umbrella 
Palm. 

NEPENTHES 

Pitcher plant. A curious bit of nature, and not 
difficult to manage. These plants do best in a com- 
post of two parts peat, and one of sphagnum, in a 
hanging basket. They require an abundant supply 
of water in summer, but much less in winter. They 
must never get dry at the roots. Pitcher Plants 
like a moist atmosphere if possible. There are a 
great many varieties, some much more interesting 
than others; your florist will help you to a decision 
in selecting. 

Nepenthes Atro=Sanguinea has pitchers of a reddish 
color spotted with yellow, and is a handsome garden 
hybrid. 

Nepenthes Phyllamphora, from Borneo, is a very 
attractive strong growing species. 

Many handsome Nepentheses are to be found in 
quantities in the swampy lands of New Jersey, and 
on the surface of certain lakes or ponds overgrown 



F*arLcratii_im.s 



189 



with moss in central New York, notably on a small 
one in Otsego County, called Lake Misery. The 




NEPENTHES 



bogs of Florida teem with numerous varieties which 
revel in that moist hot atmosphere. 

PANCRATIUMS 

A small genus of pretty bulbous plants, natives of 
tropical countries like the West Indies, and also of 
the Canary Islands, and lands bordering on the 
Mediterranean. They are easily grown, in a com- 



190 P*a.ncratii_ims 



post of two parts loam to one of peat, and one of 
well rotted leaf mould, with some silver sand added. 
The rule is to water them freely when growing-, but 
to give less when they are resting. Do not, however, 
let them get dry enough to droop. 

They do not like to be disturbed ; the less chang- 
ing of pots the better, if the plants remain healthy. 




PANCRATIUM 



When it is absolutely necessary to shift them, be 
very careful to preserve all the living roots, and cut 
out any old dead ones. They should make rapid 
growth, and to do so they need a generous supply of 
food or nourishment. They can be planted outside 
in summer, taken up in the fall, and stored away ; or 
they can be kept in pots all the while, and will grow 
on during the winter in a window where they get 
plenty of light. Their flowers are pure white, freely 
produced in large umbels, and are very fragrant. 



PHilodendron 191 



Pancratium Maritimum is said to be hardy in mild 
climates; but I never trust any of mine to the tender 
mercies of our Northern winters, feeling more at 
ease in regard to their welfare when I see them safely 
reposing in some pleasant window. 

Pancratium Illyricum is the only really hardy variety. 

PHILODENDRON 

Yrora phileo^ to love, and dcndron^ a tree. An ex- 
tensive genus of over a hundred climbing shrubs and 
small trees with spathaceous flowers, white, red, or 
yellow. The foliage is very handsome and varies 
greatly, all of the numerous species having individual 
peculiarities. 

Philodendrons are not difficult to grow. Some 
people may tell you that the}^ will not live outside of 
a greenhouse; but I know that they will for me. 
And why sould they not for others as well? They 
are not exacting; but I should advise you to give 
them a rich friable compost, or leaf mould, if you can. 
The latter is always to be found in the woods, and if 
any are near at hand there is no trouble in securing 
it. Be sure that 3'ou mix enough coarse sand with 
whatever you use, to let the water pass through 
freely; the soil must not become sour or sodden. 

These plants require an ample supply of water, 
and repeated syringing. During the summer or 
growing season, they will want all the atmospheric 
moisture you can give them, with just enough shade 
to keep the leaves from scorching. They rest in 
winter: therefore in this season they must be kept 
moist only, to prevent drying up, nntil they begin 
groH'th again. 

Should they become tuo large for your purposes, 



19^ Sanseviera 



yoti can cut off the tops, and root them during the 
heat of summer to make new plants. 

They are such a large family, and all so handsome, 
that a particular selection is difficult. 

Philodendron Erubescens is a beautiful climbing 
species, having a stout stem that roots at nearly every 
joint. 

Philodendron Mamei (Mons. Mame's) is a fine-leaved 
herb handsomely marked with white. 

Philodendron Fragrantissimum has a cream colored 
spathe with the base swollen and red. Its perfume 
is very strong and lasting. It should bloom about 
January. This variety comes from Demerara, and 
is often called Caladium Fragrantissimum 

Philodendron Gloriosum, from Columbia, South 
America, is a superb foliage plant of climbing habit. 

Philodendron Melanochrysum, also of climbing habit, 
is so lovely that words cannot do it justice. It is of 
slow or medium growth. 

Philodendron Verrucosum (Warted), synonymous 
with Philodendron Carderi, and Philodendron Dagu- 
ense, is to my mind one of the most beautiful and 
brilliant of this family, which are all worthy of men- 
tion. It needs only to be seen to be highly appreci- 
ated. 

SANSEVIERA 

Bowstring Hemp. Named in honor of Raimond 
de Sansgrio, Prince of Sanseviero. These plants are 
a small genus of herbaceous perennials from South 
Africa and the East Indies. They give little trouble, 
and do well in the house, adding a pleasing variety 
to one's collection. 

They like a sandy loam ; and in winter, while rest- 



Saxifraga 1&3 

ing, require scarcely any water, just enough to keep 
them from drying up. Should you wish more than 
one specimen, you will find that they are readily 
propagated by suckers. They may go outside in 
summer. 

Sansevieras are not particularly beautiful, but they 
are odd-looking and worthy of a place if you have 
room for them. 

Sanseviera Cylindrica, from South -Africa, has thick 
rigid leaves measuring from three to four feet in 
length. 

Then there are the following: 

Sanseviera Guineensis, from Guinea; 

Sanseviera Longiflora, long-flowered, with leaves 
half erect and white-spotted; 

Sanseviera Zeylanica, from the East Indies. Also 
the garden forms of this last species. 

SAXIFRAGA 

This is a lovely genus of mostly hardy, perennial 
plants. They are nearly all attractive, being ex- 
cellent for ferneries, jardinieres and baskets — in 
fact, effective everywhere. They are the easiest 
things to grow, requiring simply an open soil and a 
moderate amount of water. 

Saxifraga Sarmentosa Tricolor, called by a variety 
of other names, most of us will recognize under 
some one of these: Creeping Sailor, Mother of 
Thousands, Beefsteak Plant, or Strawberry Ger- 
anium; but under any name it will be as pretty. 

Saxifraga Virginiensis Flore-pleno is a good garden 
variety with pretty, white double flowers. 



194 Selaginellas 

The following are all excellent: 

Saxifraga Purpurascens, large-leaved, purple; 

Saxifraga Peltata, Umbrella Plant, pale pink, or 
white ; 

Saxifraga Longifolia ; 

Saxifraga Qeranioides (Geranium-like); 

Saxifraga Crassifolia, thick-leaved, with large red 
flowers ; 

Saxifraga Cotyledon, with white flowers. 

The following are strong robust forms of the last- 
named species, Saxifraga Cotyledon : 

Saxifraga Nepalensis, common in gardens; 

Saxifraga Pyramidalis. 

If none of these give satisfaction and you wish for 
others, you must seek information concerning them 
from your florist, as the family is too large for me 
to undertake to describe them all here. 

SELAGINELLAS 

These are an enormous genus of over three hun- 
dred species, looking very much like Club Mosses, 
and often called by that name. They require a 
treatment similar to that of Ferns, and will thrive 
where the latter will. They grow well in any light 
soil, made porous by any intermixture of sand or 
charcoal. Selaginellas must be kept moist at all 
times, and in the shade. They are easily increased 
by cuttings, as they throw out roots at nearly every 
joint. 

Selaginella Kraussiana is the Lycopod used for 
edging pots and growing in fancy shapes for table 
decoration, and other purposes;. 



Zamia. 195 

The Lycopodiums are the real Club Mosses, btit 
closely related to Selaginellas, and are also a large 
genus of lovely and easily grown plants. 

ZAMIA 

A genus resembling Palms, coming from tropical 
America and the West Indies. They belong to the 
order Cycadacese, and are mostly handsome green- 
house perennials. 

Zamias should be potted in a mixture of equal 
parts of good soil and peat, with some silver sand 
added. They must be given plenty of water through 
the summer, and be shaded from the full heat of the 
sun. 

In winter they require to be kept in a temperature 
of not less than sixty degrees. They will not need 
much water; the quantity must be regulated by the 
heat of your room. Should they grow sickly-looking, 
shake off all the loose soil you can ; put the ball 
of roots into a pail of warm water, and let it 
remain until well washed; cut out any broken or 
decayed parts ; and then repot them carefully with 
fresh earth. Keep the plants warm, and water them 
with the greatest care until they begin a new 
growth. 

Zamia Furfuracea, from Mexico, is a handsome 
species with a cylindrical trunk. 

Zamia Integrifolia, Jamaica Sago Tree, from the 
southern part of the United States, is a beautiful 
variety of Cycad-like appearance and very decorative. 

Zamia Lindeni (Linden's), coming to us from 
Ecuador, is a stately plant and desirable. 

There are many more of this family, of which I 



196 Zamia. 

have no practical knowledg-e; those which I have 
mentioned, however, are good specimens of the 
tribe, and will suffice for general purposes. 

Keep their leaves clean at all times. They are 
propagated by seed, division when possible, or by 
offsets. 

This family of Cycadacese is a very beautiful one, 
consisting, I believe, of only two genera, the C5^cas 
and Zamia, natives of South America, India, China, 
and New Holland. They assimilate in many ways 
with Palms, Coniferae, and Ferns; and are all fossil 
plants, appearing to have been the chief material of 
which considerable quantities of lignite or brown 
coal were formed. 

According to Buckland, the geologist, ''Many 
silicified fossil trunks of Cycadaceae are found in the 
Isle of Portland lodged in the same beds of black 
mould in which they grew, surrounded by trunks of 
large coniferous trees changed to flint, and by stumps 
of the same trees, erect with their roots still planted 
in their native soil." It is an awful thought, to try 
to imagine what a fearful convulsion of nature there 
must have been to cover them up thus in all their 
vigor and strength. 



CHAPTER XI 



PROF^AOATION OK PLANTS. 



Cuttings Division Offsets 



CUTTINGS 

I AN Y plants may be propagated without the 
slightest difficulty ; and, having once ob- 
tained one of them, you should never 
again be deprived of that particular 



variety, if you really wish to retain it. I see no 
reason why 5^ou should not increase your plants, if 
they are of species that may be multiplied, from 
cuttings, offsets, division, or seed. I have spoken 
of these various ways and means in relation to indi- 
vidual plants, and shall endeavor now to explain 
my meaning as succinctly as possible, and show how 
the several methods are carried out. 

Some people seem to have a faculty of rooting 
slips, or cuttings under difficulties ; every plant they 
handle appears to thrive. I am not so blessed; and 
probably there are many others like me. There is 
only one perfect way for them all ; and about this 
there is little trouble if you are a practical gardener 
and have proper appliances. But if you are simply 
an amateur, groping for knowledge, hoping for 
success, and longing for flowers, it is entirely 



198 Cuttings 

different. Outside of the regular routine, or gar- 
deners' way, many suggestions on the subject have 
been made by various writers. I know, however, of 
but one way in which I have been fairly successful. 

I have always found sand, good, sharp builders' 
sand, the best thing for my cuttings. 

Take an ordinary deep soup plate, and fill it with 
the sand; wet the latter thoroughly, but not so as 
to have the water stand, or settle at the bottom. 
Select good, well ripened shoots ; cut them slantingly 
downward, close to a joint or bud, with only the 
smaller or young leaves left on; and put them into 
your plate of sand about an inch, or one and a half 
inches apart, all around the edge, leaving the tops 
resting on the rim of the plate, with the lower ends 
which are to root, all extending towards the centre. 

Different varieties will not interfere with each 
other, if they are not akin. Having put in such as 
you need, set your plate in the warmest, lightest 
place you have. If it is near a window where the 
sun shines on it and heats up the sand, so much the 
better. Only keep the sand wet, and you should 
see your cuttings in a short while begin to hold up 
their heads, and throw out leaflets from every joint. 

Press the sand closely about your slips, to keep 
out the air; and be sure that the sand is not too wet, 
but just moist enough to remain in whatever position 
or form you may give it. If you make a hole with 
a stick in the sand, and the water settles in it, you 
may know that your sand is too wet. But you must 
also remember that when the plate is in the sun, or 
exposed to much heat, the water rapidly evaporates; 
and should the sand become entirely dry, you will 
lose all prospect of a new crop of plants. 



Ciattings 199 

Some of the more vig-oroiis varieties root quickly, 
and if kept in the right condition may throw out 
leaves in a week. When they show five or six well 
developed leaves, gently take them out by slipping 
a flat-bladed knife under them, being careful not to 
disturb others that are less advanced. Plant the 
cuttings now in two or three-inch pots. Water 
them, and set them in the shade until they recover; 
then give them sun, or shade, whichever meets their 
requirements, with air overhead. You should have 
no further trouble but such as is necessary to keep 
them in good health. 

Many different ways of rooting slips are advocated 
by various authorities; but I should advise your 
giving the method just suggested a thorough trial 
before abandoning it, unless you have a propagating 
bench in a well regulated greenhouse. 

We have all, possibly, at some time seen, read, or 
been told how to root hard-wooded shrubs — such as 
Oleanders, and Cape Jasmines — in bottles of water 
hung in the sun; and this is a very good way when 
you cannot do better. The wood must not be too 
old and hard, or, on the other hand, too soft and 
green, but just a happy medium. In fact this rule 
applies to all cuttings or slips. I have found that a 
reliable test is when they break from the parent 
plant wiih a little snapping sound. Vice versa, if 
they are tough, stringy, and bend rather than break, 
you might just as well not bother with them. 

In rooting Oleanders, and the like, when you have 
placed your slip in a bottle suspended by a cord 
fastened around the neck, if you pack raw cotton in 
the mouth of the bottle it will prevent evaporation 
to some extent; and a bit of charcoal will help to 



200 Division 



keep the water sweet. When the slip has thrown 
out a sufficiency of rootlets, pour out most of the 
water, and fill up the bottle with good soil; then, 
when the soil is settled and moulded into form, 
carefully break the bottle. You can thus transfer to 
a pot with less danger of injuring or destroying 
these tender young roots. 

DIVISION 

There are innumerable members of the plant 
world which can be increased ad infinitum by simply 
dividing the roots. The tender and more delicate 
specimens need some care after division, while in 
many of the coarser and commoner varieties the 
smallest portions of root, when taken off and 
planted, will straightway grasp the soil and in- 
crease rapidly. These remind me of worthless 
members of the human species, who will pass 
through many dangers of annihilation and rise up 
phoenix like, while those who are bulwarks of 
strength against vice, and models of usefulness and 
encouragement, are daily taken from our midst. 

When dividing a plant, of a kind that may be 
readily pulled apart by the fingers, you should care- 
fully disentangle the roots, in such a manner as not 
needlessly to lacerate them; then place the sepa- 
rated pieces with their accompanying roots into 
different receptacles of soil to make other individual 
plants. 

Various fleshy-rooted varieties, such as Imanto- 
phyllum, are easily increased in this manner with- 
out even disturbing the parent plant in its growth, 
or removing it from the pot. They throw up young 



Offsets 201 

shoots ; and if you simply run a knife down by the 
side of one of these new aspirants for public appre- 
ciation, and cut it away from the older subject, with 
more or less roots attached, and plant it in soil 
similar to that from which you took it, the young 
shoot will go right on growing; it will soon make 
another large handsome specimen to delight your 
eyes. This is the best way with plants of the type 
referred to; they seriously object to being molested 
and turned out of their pots for purposes of division. 
While this may be safely done with others, it might 
materially retard their progress. 

In treating of Adiantums, I have already explained 
how they and similar plants may have the ball of 
roots, of a large old plant, divided. This is done 
by slicing through with a sharp knife from the top 
or surface of the soil downward, making sectional 
halves, quarters, or eighths, according to the size of 
the mass to be divided. The different sections so 
made are then to be planted in good rich soil to form 
other specimens. 

This method of propagation by division of the 
roots, is a very important and valuable one; many of 
us who are not regular gardeners, and have none of 
the necessary appliances for plant production, would 
be at a loss how to multiply numerous species were 
it not for this wise provision of Nature. 

OFFSETS 

Very interesting to me is this miniature progeny. 
I never see them clustering about the base of a plant, 
clinging with all their feeble strength to the parent, 
but I think of little babies nestling close to the 



202 



Offsets 



mother, drawing sustenance and vitality until they 
are strong enough to stand alone. 

So it is with these offsets, which are tiny lateral 
shoots bearing clusters of leaves; and they will form 
roots very quickly if taken off and planted in small 
pots, or flats such as florists use. Many plants throw 
out offsets, and are therefore easy to increase, the 
Pandanus, and others of its type, being examples of 
this habit. 




CHAPTER XII 



QENERAL RENIARKS 




UNIQUE TRELLIS 

N my outdoor work I have carried out 
some practical ideas that may be of bene- 
fit to others. 

The indispensable clothes post preyed 
upon my sense of the beautiful until it became a 
veritable nightmare, filling my dreams with visions 
of small city lots, rendered yet smaller in appear- 
ance by four or six sentinel posts, supporting in- 
artistic lines of sagging rope, until I became quite 
desperate and determined to be rid of them at any 
cost. 

I pondered over the problem for many weary 
hours, and at length solved it. My first command, 
which related to the wooden clothes posts, startled 
the whole household into violent protest. 

" Dig them out," I said, "and carry them to the 
wood pile; they will do for kindHngs." 

One and all expostulated, saying, "What shall we 
do ? we must have them." 

" Be patient a little while," I answered, "and I 
shall show you what will supersede this incubus. " 

I sent for the blacksmith, and instructed him to 
make me some iron posts of two and a half inch gas 
piping ten feet long. 



204 Uiiicjiae TrelliiS 

Each of these, when finished according to direc- 
tions, was as follows : Two legs or struts of angle iron, 
two or three feet long, placed at an angle of about 
forty-five degrees downwards, are strongly bolted to 
the iron post at a point two or three feet above its base. 
These struts, which are each shod at the end with a 
square or shoe of iron, are intended to bear the 
principal strain upon the post, and keep it upright. 

A flat iron strip, about a quarter of an inch thick 
by an inch wide, is riveted to each side of the post 
near the top ; they are then sprung out in a heart- 
shaped curve — the two pieces giving a span of six feet 
at their greatest width apart — and brought gracefully 
down to the point where the post enters the ground ; 
here they are securely bolted against the sides. 
Horizontal strips of lighter rounded iron run across 
this heart-shaped span at distances some ten inches 
apart. The top of the post ends in a round ball; and 
on the face of the post, at the point where the heart 
shape rises and curves outward, is a stout hook 
well turned up. 

That part of the trellis which will be above ground 
is now painted a very dark inconspicuous green. 
The underground portion is protected against rust 
by metallic paint. The lower end is firmly embedded 
in the soil to a depth of two feet. Against the 
square shoes a convenient boulder has been placed ; 
and likewise another boulder at the foot of the post, 
on the side opposite that on which the line will pull. 
In filling in, the earth has been carefully pounded. 

All the posts or trellises, now complete, are 
stationed at suitable distances around the inner edge 
of a carriage drive which skirts the lawn ; they are 
therefore on the outer margin of the lawn, which is 




UNIQUE TRELLIS 



206 tJniqoe Trellis 

left free and clear. The hooks on the trellis posts 
all face inward over the lawn. Attached to them 
are Avire lines, almost invisible against the sward. 

At the foot of these trellises are planted the 
hardiest of monthly blooming climbing Roses ; and 
when they are a mass of flowers from bottom to top, 
as they are the greater part of the season, I feel 
rather elated at an achievement which elicits praise 
from all beholders, and am thankful that mother wit 
has downed my incubus and converted it into an 
object of usefulness and beauty. 

Should some untoward winter destroy the cherished 
climbing plants, I shall only have to purchase new 
ones, trusting that before this occurs industrious 
hybridizers will have produced more blooming 
climbers that will be entirely hardy. As it is, these 
so called partly hardy ones which I use, give me but 
little trouble and the greatest satisfaction. 

Coming as I do from a land where we have flowers 
outdoors nearly all the year, I sometimes lose 
patience with the scentless hardy running Roses 
generally grown North and blooming only in June. 
I use Gloire de Dijon, William Allen Richardson, 
Waltham Queen Number Three, Marie Lavelley, an 
excellent variety, Caroline Goodrich, Fiirsten Bis- 
marck and Marie Henriette. These are heavily 
mulched with long manure, two or three feet around 
the base or roots. The tops are laid down and well 
protected with leaves and a light covering of manure 
to keep them in place. This, however, should not 
be done too soon; moderate cold does not injure 
them. 

Old stumps or dead trees can easily be made 
beautiful by plantinor vines at their bases, and train- 



General Remarks 207 



ing these over them until they are entirely covered. 
A stump covered with Ivy or Ampelopsis Veitchii 
makes a handsome stand for a vase. 



In this concluding chapter I would like to reiterate 
and impress forcibly upon the minds of my readers 
a few of the salient points of house or window 
garden floriculture. Success is attainable only by 
close observance of a given regimen, which must 
never be lost sight of for a single day ; should this 
occur, one's plants may pay the penalty of his or 
her neglect. 

Always bear in mind that during the dull dark 
days of midwinter your plants must be watered with 
great care ; and that it is much better to invest in a 
rubber plant- sprayer, and sprinkle their leaves, than 
to be continuously flooding their poor roots, which 
are trying to recuperate by a needed rest for another 
season's work.. Moreover, you can easily increase 
the supply when they show signs of thirst. Also 
remember not to allow water to stand in the saucers, 
as it chills and rots the roots, and induces mould or 
fungi to collect on the pots. 

Be sure that your plants get plenty of air; it is as 
absolutely essential to their living as it is to us. But 
at the same time guard them from draughts; for 
they are as susceptible to the pernicious effects of 
these cold currents as we are. 

Do not spare the scissors and spoil the plant, but 
trim, tie and train it in the way it should go — unless 
it is some special subject that resents the shears. If 
you spare the shears, as a rule you will spoil the 
appearance of your plants, and they are apt to look 



208 General Remarks 



like untidy and unkempt weeds rather than delect- 
able pets. 

Never forget their insect foes, which though 
diminutive are a host in themselves and too formid- 
able to be neglected. The most important thing to 
my mind is cleanliness, which is as near to godliness 
for the dear flowers as for ourselves ; and if you keep 
your plants perfectly clean you have won more than 
half the battle. 

There are innumerable plants which probably 
many of us have seen, admired, and desired to 
possess; and those of us who are blessed with hot- 
houses and conservatories to furnish proper require- 
ments for plants can indulge our taste for the par- 
ticular specimens that please our fancy. But in 
writing this little book, which is intended for those 
not so fortunate, I have endeavored to keep strictly 
within the lines of my personal experience, and to 
select for description and suggestion as to treatment 
only those plants which I know can be grown suc- 
cessfully in our living-rooms or houses. This iin- 
doubtedly may be done if my instructions are fol- 
lowed. I could write at length on a variety of 
subjects, of flowers that awaken admiration and 
make one long to possess them ; but they would be 
of no use whatever for the purpose described, 
namely, permanent house decoration. Any one who 
induced you to invest in them would simply be 
defrauding you, unless the advice were given 
through ignorance. 

I have told you of the plants which have done best 
under my care. There were, however, others that 
I could not induce to remain with us tinder any con- 
sideration. I trust this little book may come into 



General Remarks 



209 



the hands of those who appreciate flowers as I do, 
and they will understand what a labor of love it 
has been to write it amidst manifold other duties. 

I love every expression of the spiritual force of 
life, and have a wild longing to possess all plants, 
not being able to pass the humblest weed without a 
glance of admiration. They are so humanizing, and 
all appeal to me. I never cease to marvel at their 
wonderful construction, the regularity of their exist- 
ence, their appearance and disappearance with the 
recurring seasons, and to realize the illimitable field 
of thought they awaken, of the Power that creates, 
guides, controls and directs their being. 

How little most people — bright people too — know 
of the marvellous and amazing creations of the plant 
world. Though silent monitors, the flowers are not 
dumb, but speak to us through the delicacy of their 
scents, their intricate shapes, complex habits and the 
glorious penciling of their heavenly colors, that no 
human artist can command. 




INDEX 



PAGE 

Abutilon 131 

Boule de Neige 
Golden Bells 
Santana 

Afiucan Lily, ^ee Ag-apan- 
tbus 

ACALYPHA 134 

A. Macrophylla 
A. Musaica 

A. Wllkesiana. or Tri- 
color 

ACHYRANTHES 79 

Adiantum 26 

A. Capillus Veneris 

A. Tenerum Farleyense 
Agapanthiis 100 

A. Umbellatus 

A. U. AlbiduB 

A. U. Flore-pleno 

A. U. Maximus 

A. U. Mooreanus 

Ageratum 35 

Alocasia 80 

A. MacrorhizaVariegata 

A. Metallica 

A. Sedeni 

A. Thibautiana 

A. Zebrina 
Aloysia 135 

A. Citrlodora 
Alternantheua 82 

A. Amabilis Tricolor 

A. Paronychioides 

A. P. Magnifica 

A. P. Major 

A. P. M. Aurea 

A. Versicolor 



PAGE 

Amaryllis 1 

A. Belladonna 

A. Equestre 

A. Formosissima 

A. Johnsoni 

A. Vittata 

Hippeastruins 
Anthericum 101 

A. Liliago 

A. Liliastrum 

A. Variegatum 
Aralia 136 

Sieboldi 
Araucaria 184 

A. Balansae 

A. Cookii 

A. Excelsa Glauca 

A. E. Robusta 

Ardisia 137 

A. Crenulata 

Arecas 116 

A. Lutescens 
Arrowroot. See Marnata 
A RUM. See Call a 
Arum Sanctum. See Calla 
Arum, White. See Calla 
Aspidistra 83 

A. Elatior 

A. E. V^ariegata 

A. Lurida 
Aubergine. See Solanum 
Australian Feather Palm. 
See Seaforthia Elegans 
Azaleas 138 

A. Indica 

Ghent Azaleas 



212 



Index 



Balsam. See Impatiens 
Barbadoes Lily. See Ama- 
ryllis Equestre 
Basket Plants. See Vines, 
Creepers and Basket 
Plants 
Bay Tree. See Daphne 
Beefsteak Plant ^eeSaxi- 
fraga Sarmentosa Tri- 
color 

Begonia 84 

B. Alba 
B. Maculata 
B. Metallica 
B. Rex 
B, Rubra 
B. Vernon 
Belli s. See Daisies 
Bermuda Easter Lily. See 

Li Hum Harris a 
Bourbon Palm. SeeLatania 

BOUVARDIAS 36 

B. Humboldtii Corymbi- 

flora 
B. Jasminiflora 



Bowstring Hemp. See San- 
seviera 

Bracken. See Ferns — Pteris 
Aquilina 

Brake Fern. See Ferns — 
Pteris Aquilina 

Browallia 86 

B. Elata 
B. Grandiflora 
B. Janiesonii 
B. Roezli 

Brugmansia. See Datura 

Brunsvigias. See Amaryllis 



BULBS 

Amaryllis 

Crocus 

Gladiolus 

Hyacinthus 

Narcissus 

Nerines 

Ornithogalum 

Ox alls 

Tulips 



Epiphyllum 
E. Truncatum 



Cabbage Palm. See Oreo- 
doxa Oleracea 

CACTI 21 

Cere us 

Echinocactus 
^pipl 
<:. Tr 

E. T. Coccineum 
E. T. Magniticum 
E. T. Ruckerianum 
E. T. Violaceum Super- 
hum 
Mam miliaria 
Cactus, Crab Claw. See Cacti 
— Epiphyllum Trunca- 
tum 
Cactus, Hedgehog. See Cacti 

— Echinocactus 
Caladium Fragrantissimum. 
See Philodendron Fra- 
grantissimum 

Caladiums 87 

C. Bicolor 
C. Chantinii 
C. Esculentum 
C. Leopoldi 
C. Macula turn 
C. Marmoratum 
C. Verschaffeltii 

Calla 106 

BlacJi Calla 
Gem Calla 



Calathea. See Maranta 
Candytuft. See Iberis 
Candytuft, Rocket. See 

Iberis Coronaria 
Cannas 89 

Chas. Henderson 

Eldorado 

Madame Crozy 
Cape Jasmine. See Gardenia 
Caryota 118 

C. Purpuracea 

C. Sobolifera 

C. Urens 
Cereus. See Cacti 
Chamaerops 119 

C. Humilis 

C. Macrocarpa 

Chinese Lily See Narcissus 

Chrysanthemum 39 

Early-Howerin^ Chrys- 
anthemums 
Incurved-fiowered Chrys- 
anthemums 
Japanese Varieties 
Large A nemone-flo wered 

Chrysanthemums 
Late-flowering Chrys- 
anthemums 
Pompones Reflexed 
Recurved Chrysanthe- 
mums 



Index: 



213 



PAGE 

Chkysanthemum 

Small Anemone-flowered 
Pompone Chrysanthe- 
mums 

Clematis 171 

C. Coccinea 

C. Davideana 

C. Fortune! 

C. Jackmanni 

C. Lanuginosa 

C. A'italba 

C. Viticella 

Duchess of Edinburgh 

Henryi 

■Club Mosses. See Selag-i- 
nellas 

CocoANUT Palm. See Coco.s 
Nucifera 

Cocos 119 

C. Nucifera 
C. Weddeliana 

COLEUS 91 

C. Verschaffeltii 
Golden Bedder 

COLOCASIA 186 

C. Esculenta 

CoNVALLARiA. See Lily of 
the Valley 



PAGE 

CoiJDYLLXE. See Dracaena 

Corn Flag. See Gladiolus 

Crab Claw Cactus. SeeCacti 
— Epiphyllum Trunca- 
tum 

CuEEPERH. See Vines, Creep- 
era and Basket Plants 

CREEPLXf; Charlie. See Ly- 
simachia. 

Creeping Sailor. See Saxi- 
fraga Sarmentosa Tri- 
color 

Crinum 102 

C. Americanum 
C. Fimbriatum 
C. Kirkii, or Nobile 

Crocus 3 

Cultural Directions 112 

Curly Palm. See Kentia 
Belmoreana 

Cuttings 197 

Cycads 121 

C. Kevoluta 
Dioon Edule 

Cyperis 187 

C. Alternifolius 



Daffodil. See Narcissus 

Daisies 47 

Daisy, Parts. See Chrys- 
anthemum 

Daphne 145 

D. Odora 

Date Palm. See Phienix 

Date, Wild. SeePhwnixSyl- 
vestris 

Datura 48 

Brugmansia 
D. Sanguinea 
D. Suaveolena 

DlEFFENBACHIA 93 

D. Baraquiniana 



DlEFFENBACHIA 

D. Bausei 
D. Leopoldi 
D. Magnifica 
D. Majestica 
D. Nobilis 
D. Begin a 
D. Rex 
D. Splendens 
D. Triuuiphans 

DiooN Edule. See Cycads 

Directions, Cultural 112 

Disbudding 40 

( See Ch rysa n th em urn ) 

Division 20O 

Drac^na 94- 



East Indian Wine Palm. See 

Pbcenix Sylvestris 
Echinocactus. See Cacti 
Egg Plant. See Solan um 



Elephant's Ear. See Colo- 
casia Esculenta 

Epiphyllum. See Cacti 



214 



Index: 



PAGE 

FARFuoirM Grande 90 

Fern, Brake. See Ferns — 

Pteris Aquilina 
Fern, Maidenhair. See,4J/- 

nntuin 
FERNS 2G 

Adiantnins 

Xephrolepis 

PlHt.vceriuins 

Pteris 

Fern, Stag Horn. SeePlaty- 

ceriums 
Fern, Sword. See Xephro- 
lepis Exalt ata 

Ficrs 122 

F. Elastica 
Fig. See Ficus 
Fish Tail Palm. SeeCarj'ofa 
Flag, Corn. See Gladiolus 
Flat Palm. SeeKentiaFor- 

s ten a II a 
Flax, Lily, i^ee Phonniuni 
Flax, New Zealand. See 
Pbormiuni Tenax 



FLOWERING PLANTS. 
A gem turn 
Bouvardias 
Chrysa utlieni uin 
Daisies 
Datura 
Fuchsia 
Geraniums 
Heliotrojie 
Il)eris 



33 



FLOWERING PLANTS 
linpatieus 
Lantana 
Ma her Ilia. 
Mignonette 
Xieotiana 
I'ansies 
I'etunia 
Pliormium 
Plumbago 
liein nurd tin 
Salvia 
Violets 

FOLIAGE PLANTS 79 

Acbyranthes 

Aloe a si a 

Alternanthera 

Aspidistra 

Begonia 

Brow a Ilia 

Caladiums 

Caiinas 

Cole us 

Dieffenhachia 

Draciena 

Farfugium Grande 

Maranta 
P'OK Succession. Term used 

as to mode of planting: 6 

(See Gladiolus, Hyacin- 
th us. Petunia) 
Fragrant Verbena. See 

Aloysia 
Fuchsia 50 

F. Phenomeual 

F. Speciosa 

Storui King: 



Gardenia 146 

G. Florida 

Geraniums 53 

Apple Geranium 
Bronze Geranium 
Ivy Leaf Geranium 
Lady Washington Ger- 
anium 
Lemon Geranium 
Nutmeg Geranium 
Rose Geranium 
Silver Geranium 



Geranii'ms 

Zonal, or Bedding Ger- 
anium 
Gladiolus 5 

G. Colvillei 

G. Recurvus 

G O L D E N-R AYED LiLY OF 

Japan. See Liliuni Au- 
ratum 

Grevillea 14R 

G. Robusta 
Guernsey Lily. See Xerine 
Sarniensis 



H 



Hedera. See Ivy 

HED(iEHOG Cactus. f^eeCacti 
— Echinocactus 

Heliotrope 60 

Hibiscus 148 

H. Coceineus 



Hibiscus 

H. Rosa Sinensis 

H. R. S. Cooperi 

H. Schizopetalus 

H. Splendens 
HiPPEASTRUM. See .4 maryllis 
Honey Bell, fiee Ma hernia 



Index 



215 



PAGE 

HowEA Belmoreana. See 

Ken tin Belmoreana 
HowEA FoKSTERiAXA. See 
Kentia Forsteriaua 

HOYA 150 

H. Bella 
H. Carnosa 
H. Paxtoni 

Hyacinthus 7 

Roman Hyacinths 

Iberis CO 

I. Coronaria 

I. Semperflorens 

I. Sempervirens 
Imantophvlia'm lO-t 

I. Miniatum 

Impatiens 61 

I. Sultani 



HYDRAXOrEAS 151 

H. Hortensis 

H. H. Japonica 

H. H. Otaksa 

H. Paniculata Graudi- 

flora 
H. Petiolaris 
H. Quercifolia 
H. Scandens 
Thomas Hogg 



India Rubber Plant. See 
Ficus Elastica 

Ivy 

English Ivy 

German Ivy, or Parlor 

Ivy 
Hedera Helix Canariensis, 
Irish Ivy 



173 



Jamaica Sago Tree. See 
Za m in In tegrifo lin 

Japanese Fern Palm. See 
Cycas Revoluta 

Jasmine, Cape. See Gardenia 



Jasminum 

J. Floridum 
J, Frutioans 



Jasmintm 

J. Gracillimnm 
J. Grandifloru'm 
J. Nudifloruiii 
J. Revolutum 

Jerusalem Cherry. See So- 
lanuni Psendo-Ca psi- 
cuni 

Jo.NQriL. See Narcissus 



K 



Kentias 12.3 

K. Belmoreana 
K. Forsteriana 



Kr.MQVAT. See Oranfre/t — 
Citrus Japonica 



L.ANTANA 62 

Latania 124 

L. Aurea 

L. Borbonica 
LaurusNobilis. See Daphne 
I.EMON Verbena . See .-1 loysia 
LiGULARiA. See Farfugiiiin 
Grande 

LILIES 100 

Agapanthus 

Anthericnm 

Crinuw 

Ini a n tophylliim 

Lilium 

Lily of the Valley 
LiLHM 105 

Black Calla 

Calla 

Gem Calla 



Lilium 

L. Auratnm 
L. Brownii 
L. Bulbiferum 
L. Canadense 
L. Candidum 
L. Harrisii 
L. Longiflorum 
L. Rosen m 
L. Speciosum 
L. S. Albiflorum 

Lily, African. See Agn- 
p ant bus 

I^iLY, Barbadoes. See.4/».'j- 
ryllis Equestre 

Lily, Bermtda. See Lilium 
Harrisii 

Lily, Bermtda Easter. See 
Lilium Harrisii 



2 m 



Index: 



Lily, Chinese. SeeXarcis.sus 

Lily, Easter. See Lilium 
Harrisii 

Lily, Flax, f^ee Phorniiiim 

Lily, G o l d e x - R a y e d of 
Japan. See Lili u lu A u- 
ratum 

Lily, Guernsey. See Serine 
Siiruienai.s 

IviLY, Milk and Wine of 

Nassau. See Crinuiu 

Fimbriatum 
Lily OF The Nile. SeeCalla 

Lily of The Valley 

Convallaria Majalis 
I.,iLY, Pink Spider. SeeNerine 

Japoaica 
Lily, St. Bernard's. See 

Authericum Liliago 



109 



Lily, St. Bruno's. See An- 
thericuiu LUiastrum 

Lily, White Trumpet. See 
Lilium Longitiorum 

Llxum Trigynum. See Rein- 
ward tia 

LiviSTONA Chin e n s i s. See 
Latania Borbonica 

Loosestrife. See Ly.sinia- 
cliia 

Love Apple. See Solanurn 

LYCOPERSIUUM EsrULENTUM. 

See ISolanum 
Lycopodium. See Selaginellas 
Lysimauhia 174 

L. Atropurpurea 

L. Ciliata 

L. Clethroides 

L. Lanceolata 

L. Nummularia 

L. Vulgaris 



M 



68 



Madagascar Periwinkle. 
See Vinca Rosea, and 
Vinca Alba 

Mahernia 

M. Glabrata 
M. Incisa 
M. Odorata 

MaidenhairFern. SeeAdian- 
tuin 

Mammillaria. See Cacti 

Manettia 175 

M. Bicolor 
M. Cordifolia 
M. Micans 



Maranta 

Calathea Princeps 

C. Tubispatha 

C. Veitchii 

Maranta Bicolor 

M. Concinna 

M. Nitens 

M. Sagoriana 

M. Zebrina 
Marguerite. See Cbrjsan- 
themum 



97 



Marsh Mallow. See Hibiscus 
Mignonette 64 

Reseda Odorata 
Milk and Wine Lily of 

N assa u . See Crin urn Fim - 
briatum 

Mimulus 176 

M. Cardinalis 
M. Glutinosus 
M. Lewisii 



Lysi- 



Monkey Flower. See Mi- 
mulus Luteus 

Mother of Thoxisands. See 
Sa xifraga Sa rm en t osa 
Tricolor 

Musk Plant. See Mimulus 
Moschatus 

Myrtle. See Vinca 



M. 
M. 
M. 
M. 
M 


Luteua 

L. Cupreus 

Moschatus 

M. Harrisonii 

Repens 


NEYWORT. See 
machia 



N 



Naruisstts 11 

Double Roman Narcissus 
Paper White Narcissus 
Polyanthus Narcissus 
Chinese Lily 
Trumpet Major 

Nepenthes 188 

N. Antro-sanguinea 
N. Phyllamphora 



Nephrolepis 31 

N. Exaltata 

Nerines 13 

N. Fothergilli Major 
N. Japonica 
N. Sarniensis 



Nerium Oleander. 
ander 



See Ole- 



Index 



21'; 



New Zealand Flax. See 
Phormium Tenax 

NiCOTIANA 

N. Acutiflora 
N. Affinis 
N. Fraffrans 
N. Glauca 



66 



NiCOTIAXA 

N. Tabacum 

N. NVigandioides 
Nightshade. See Petunia 
Nightshade. SeeSolanum 
Norfolk Island Pine. See 
Araucuriu Excelsa 



Offsets 201 

Olea 158 

Olea Fragrans 

Oleander •. 159 

Oranges 160 

Citrus Japonica 

Otaheite Orange 

Satsuma Orange 

Oreodoxa 126 

O. Granatensis 

O. Oleracea 

O. Regia 

O. Sancona 
Ornithogalum 14 

O. Arabicum 

O. Nutans 

O. Thyrsoides 

O. Uinbellatura 

O Vittatum 



Osmanthus Fragrans. See 

Olea Fragrans 
Ostrich Plume. See Cbry- 

santbemum 
Othonna 178 

O. Crassifolia 
OXALIS 15 

O. Acetosella 

O. Bowiei 

O. Enneaphylla 

O. Lobata 

O. Luteola 

O. Purpurea 

O. Rosea 

O. Tetraphylla 

OxALis Deppei. See Oxalis 

Tetraphylla 
Oxalis Flo ri bund a. See 
Oxalis Rosea 



Palm, Australian Feather. 
See Seaforthia Elegans 

Palm, Bourbon. See Latania 

Palm, Cabbage. See Oreo- 
doxa Oleracea 

Palm, Cocoanut. See Cocos 
Nucifera 

Palm, Curly. See Kentia 

Belmoreana 
Palm, Date. See Phwnix 
Palm, East Indian Wine. 

See Phoenix Sylvestris 
Palm, Fish Tail. See Caryota 
Palm, Flat. See Kentia 

Forsteriana 
Palm, Japanese Fern. See 

Cycas Revoluta 



PALMS 

Arecas 

Caryota 

Chamierops 

Cocos 

Cyca (Is 

Fie us 

Kentia s 

Latania 

Oreodoxa 

Pandanus 



112 



PALMS 
P ho? nix 
Seaforthia 

Palm, Sago. See Cycas Re- 
voluta 

Palm, Thatch Leaf. See 
Kentia Forsteriana 

Palm, Umbrella. See Cy- 
perus Alternifolius 

Pancratiums 189 

P. lUyricum 

P. Maritimum 
Pandanus 126 

P. Utilis 

P. Veitchii 

Pansies 67 

Paris Daisy. See Chrysan- 
themum 
Pelargonium. See Geranium 
Pereskia Stock. See Cacti 
Perhvinkle. See Vinca 

Petunia 69 

Phalangium. See Antheri- 

cuni 
Philodendron 191 

P. Erubescens 

P. Fragrantis.simum 



218 



Index 



Philodendron 
p. Glorioeum 
P. Mamei 

P. Melanochrysum 
P. Verrucosum 

Phcenix 128 

P. Canarieneis 
P. Dact3-lifera 
P. Reclinata 
P. Rupicola 
P. Sylvestris 

Phormium 71 

P. Cookianum Variega- 

tum 
P. Tenax 

P. T, Nigro Pictum 
P. T. Variegaturn 
P. T. Veitchianum 

Pine, Norfolk Island. See 

Araucaria Ex eels a 
Pine, Screw. Bee Pandanus 
Pink Spider Lily. HeeNerine 

Jajjonica 



PAGE 

Pitcher Plant. See Nepen- 
thes 

Planting for Succession. 
See For Succession 

Platycerium 33 

PLUMBA(iO 7^ 

P. Capensis 
P. Coccinea 
P. Larpent;e 
P. Rosea 
P. Scandens 
Potato. See Solan uni Tube- 
rosum 
PROPAGATION OF 

PLANTS 197 

Cuttinfi^s 
Division 
Offsets 
Pteris. See Ferns 
Ptychosperma. See Sea- 

forthia 
Pyrethrtm. See Cbrysan- 
thenium 



Ragwort. See Othonna 
Reinwardtia 73 

R. Tetragynum 

R. Trigynum 
Reseda. Ski^ Mignonette 

RlCHARDIA ^THIOPICA. See 

Calhi 
RlCHARDIA Africana. See 

Calla 
Rocket Candytuft. See 

Iberis Coronaria 
Roman Hyacinths, ^te Hya- 
cinths 

Roses 164 

American Beauty 
Dins mo re 
Duchess of Albany 



Roses 

La France 

Madame Caroline Testout 

Meteor 

Anna de Dit^sbach 
Baroness Rothschild 
Boule de Neige (Bail of 

Snow) 
General Jacqueminot 
John Hopper 
Magna Charta 
Mrs. John Laing 
Paul Neyron 
Prince Camille de Rohan 
Ulrich Brunner 
Rubber Plant. See Flcus 

Elastic a 



Sage. See Salvia Officinalis 
Sago Palm. f^eeCycasRevo- 
luta 

Sago Tree, Jamaica. See 
Zainia Integrifolia 

St. Bernard's Lily. See^n- 
thericum Liliago 

St. Bruno's Ijhly. See An- 
thericum Liliastrum 

Salvia 

S. Officinalis 
S. Patens 
S. P. Alba 
S. Splendens 
S. S. Bruantii 



74 



Sanseviera 192 

S. Cylindrica 
S. Guineensis 
S. Long' flora 
S. Zeylanica 

Saxifraga 193 

S. Cotyledon 
S. Crassifoiia 
S. Geranioides 
S. Longifolia 
S. Nepalensis 
S. Peltata 
S. Purpurascens 
S. Pyramidalis 
S. Sarmentosa Tricolor 
S. Virginiensis Flore- 
pleno 



IrLd.e:>c 



21^ 



PAGE 

Screw Pine. See Pandanus 
Seaforthia 130 

S. Elegans 
Selaoinelkas 194 

S, KrauBsiana 
SHRUBS 131 

A hut Hon 

Acalypba 

Aloysia 

A rail a 

A rilisia 

Azaleas 

Jfaphoe 

Gardenia 

(irevillea 

Hibiscus 

Hoya 

Hydrangeas 

Jasminum 

Olea 

Oleander 

Oranges 

Roses 
SOLANIIM 178 

Lycopersicum Esculen- 
turn 

Solanum Jasminoides 

S. Melongena 



Solanum 

S. Pseudo-Capsicum 
S. Seaforthianum 
S. Tuberosum 

Souhel, Woou. See Oxalis 
Acetosella 

Spider WORT. See T ra de- 
scant i a 

Sprekelias. See Amaryllis 

Stag Horn Fern. See Pla- 
ty cerium 

Star of Bethlehem. See 
Ornithogalum IJmbel- 
latum 

Strawberry Geranium. See 
Saxifraga Sarmentosa 
I'ricolor 

Streptosolen J a m e r o n 1 1. 
See Browallia James- 
onii 

Succession, Planting for. 

See For Succession 
Sword Fern. See Nephro- 

lepis Exaltata 



Thatch Leaf Palm. See 
Ken tia Fo rs terian a 

T o B A cc o . See Nico tia n a 

Tomato. See Solanum 

Toothwort. HeePlumbago 

Tradescantia 181 

T. Discolor 



U 



Umbrella Pat-m. See Cy- 
perus Alternifolius 

Umbrella Plant. See Sax i- 
fraga Peltata 



Tradescantia 

Wandering Jew 

Trellis, Unique 20& 

Trumpet Lily, White. See 
Lilium LongiHorum 

Trumpet Major. See Nar- 
cissus 

Tulips IT 

Unique Trellis 203 



V 



Vallotas. See Amaryllis 
Verbena, Fragrant. See 

Aloysia 
Verbena, Lemon. See Aloy- 
sia 
ViNCA 182 

V. Alba 

V. Major 

V Minor 

V. Rosea 
VINES, CREEPERS and 

BASKET PLANTS 171 

Clematis 

Ivy 

Lysimachia 



VINES, CREEPERS and 
BASKET PLANTS 
Manettia 
Mim ulus 
Otbonna 
Solan um 
Tradescantia 
Vinca 

Violets 7& 

English Violets 
Marie Louise Violets 
Neapolitan Violets 
Russian Violets 
Viola Odorata 

Virgin's Bower, See Clematis 



220 



Incier<: 



\V 



Wandering Jew. HeeTrmle- 

scantiit 
Wax Plant. See Hoya 
White Arim. See Calla 
White Trumpet Lily. See 

Lilium LoDgWorum 



Wild Date. See Pbwuix Syl- 
vestris 

Wine Palm, East Indian. 
See Phcenix Sylvestris 

Wood Sorrel. See Oxulis 
Acetoaella 



Zamia 

Z. P'urfuracea 
Z. Integrifolia 
Z. Lindeni 



105 



Zebra Plant. See Maranta 

Zebrina 
Zephyranthes. SeeAmayrillis 
Zonal. See Geranium 



»D3aa 









4- K' 






*o 




